Advice on plumbing for someone who has never done it before!

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NorthernHAM

Well-known member
Apr 3, 2021
53
Northern Ontario, Canada
Pool Size
8000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi TFP!

I'm very excited to open my pool for the second time, however I do want to fix up some of my plumbing (that was inherited when we bought the house.)

We have the tiger flex tubing (sched 40) and I am aware this should be glued as normal pvc, however the previous owners used all barbed fittings. I have attached 4 pictures, the first 2 show the current set up and how close it is to the wall of the house, which limits my options and ability to unhook things. The zoomed in picture is a threaded fitting connecting the pump to my filter (which leaks) and there is flaking gray stuff coming out of it (praying its not cemented in). Last year it was impossible to remove this fitting by hand, is there any recommendation on how to untwist this piece off?

The second 2 pictures are my proposed plan and looking for suggestions/improvements. All fittings selected are labeled as either pvc or sched 40 so I think I'm good in that department. Straight lines indicate the tiger flex hose.

I have 2 options for running the line from pump to filter, one being the ball valve directly connecting to pump and the other having the ball valve in the middle of the line. Currently we have no ball valve in between which makes for quite the mess when I clean the pump basket. I can't remember what exactly is on the line (these pictures are from last year), but I do believe it's just a simple threaded connector that is barbed into the tigerflex.

Thank you for any and all suggestions and constructive criticism!!
 

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The Jandy neverlube is exactly what you want to use for the 3 way and check valves... For the connections to the pump and the filter you want to use the link below, the one with the ? I am not sure.. The ones I posted have been connected to 2 different pumps and my Intex pool for 8 years and still do not leak.. https://smile.amazon.com/Custom-Molded-21063-154-000-Hi-Temp-Union/dp/B00N4SVYQY

Ohhhh my, I just did a search on Amazon.ca and WOW, those high temp unions are 85 dollars... The 10 dollar one is a great price :)

In your diagram there are 2 pumps going to 1 filter?? Do you have 2 pumps? You never want to connect 2 pumps to 1 filter..

1650198277628.png
 
What is the old saying about leaving well enough alone? That said, if it was me I would do a complete re-plumb. Everything - and lose the flex pipe totally.
 
cowboycasey said:
The Jandy neverlube is exactly what you want to use for the 3 way and check valves... For the connections to the pump and the filter you want to use the link below, the one with the ? I am not sure.. The ones I posted have been connected to 2 different pumps and my Intex pool for 8 years and still do not leak.. https://smile.amazon.com/Custom-Molded-21063-154-000-Hi-Temp-Union/dp/B00N4SVYQY

Ohhhh my, I just did a search on Amazon.ca and WOW, those high temp unions are 85 dollars... The 10 dollar one is a great price :)

In your diagram there are 2 pumps going to 1 filter?? Do you have 2 pumps? You never want to connect 2 pumps to 1 filter..

View attachment 402104
Click to expand...
So you dont recommend any ball valve in between the filter and pump?? When I clean out the pump basket the water rushes back through the line and spills all over my feet.

And no only 1 pump! That's why I wrote "or" cause I have 2 options!
 
PoolGate said:
What is the old saying about leaving well enough alone? That said, if it was me I would do a complete re-plumb. Everything - and lose the flex pipe totally.
Click to expand...
If I leave it alone it will continue leaking and I don't want that! Honestly the flex tube hasn't given me any significant issues, it's the stupid fittings they've used.

I am probably going to use hard pvc for what I add but keep the flex for the main line because it has worked for me.

Do you have an option on the ball valves and for ideas on how to get out a stuck threaded fitting?
 
Disclaimer: I am not an expert.

1. I prefer clear primer so that I don't get purple on everything. Primer is important to a good seal as it "pre-melts" the surface of the PVC.

2. Find the slower-setting glue so that you will have a few more seconds before the joint loses adjustability. Again, I prefer clear glue for reasons stated above. PVC/CPVC compatible glue is what I use just in case.

3. Push, twist, and hold for a minute or two before you let go of the joint.

4. This is the hard one for me: really let the glue set overnight before turning on the water pressure. If it leaks you just have to start all over. Slathering glue on the outside of a leaking joint just prolongs the pain.

🙂
 
IMO ball valves should never be used. Only use diverter valves that can be rebuilt.

Ball valves will eventually stick or handles break and need to be cut out to replace.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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magiteck said:
Use a “jandy-style” valve instead of a generic ball valve. I used these:

Pentair 263038 1-1/2-Inch 2-Way PVC Diverter Valve Amazon.com : Pentair 263038 1-1/2-Inch 2-Way PVC Diverter Valve : Swimming Pool Filter Valves : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Click to expand...
This is exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately it does not seem to be for sale on the websites I have been looking at. Being in Canada sucks sometimes lol... do you happen to know if these can be found at common pool supply stores? I am actually going to visit family in NY state this week so I can stop at whatever store I need
 
Hal3 said:
Disclaimer: I am not an expert.

1. I prefer clear primer so that I don't get purple on everything. Primer is important to a good seal as it "pre-melts" the surface of the PVC.

2. Find the slower-setting glue so that you will have a few more seconds before the joint loses adjustability. Again, I prefer clear glue for reasons stated above. PVC/CPVC compatible glue is what I use just in case.

3. Push, twist, and hold for a minute or two before you let go of the joint.

4. This is the hard one for me: really let the glue set overnight before turning on the water pressure. If it leaks you just have to start all over. Slathering glue on the outside of a leaking joint just prolongs the pain.

🙂
Click to expand...

Great tips, I did read the pvc repair page but it's always good to have extra info and reminders! Thank you!!

ajw22 said:
IMO ball valves should never be used. Only use diverter valves that can be rebuilt.

Ball valves will eventually stick or handles break and need to be cut out to replace.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
I didn't actually know there was a difference. I assume you are talking about the jandy one magitek just linked above ^

If so, this is what I was looking for but couldn't actually find it. Thank you for the warning! I am going to do some digging to see if I can find the jandy one without paying stupid prices for boarder fees haha
 

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NorthernHAM said:
This is exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately it does not seem to be for sale on the websites I have been looking at. Being in Canada sucks sometimes lol... do you happen to know if these can be found at common pool supply stores? I am actually going to visit family in NY state this week so I can stop at whatever store I need
Click to expand...
Possibly, but I’m guessing the prices would be higher. Could you order from Amazon US and ship to your family in NY?
 
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NorthernHAM said:
If so, this is what I was looking for but couldn't actually find it. Thank you for the warning! I am going to do some digging to see if I can find the jandy one without paying stupid prices for boarder fees haha
Click to expand...

Jandy, Hayward, Pentair, CMP all make diverter valves that are basically the same.

Valves - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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magiteck said:
Possibly, but I’m guessing the prices would be higher. Could you order from Amazon US and ship to your family in NY?
Click to expand...
That seems like the most obvious solution, duh.... thank you!!


Also, in my search for rigid pvc, is this one I found ok? It says sched 40 dwv, pressure rated for 330 psi.
 

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NorthernHAM said:
That seems like the most obvious solution, duh.... thank you!!


Also, in my search for rigid pvc, is this one I found ok? It says sched 40 dwv, pressure rated for 330 psi.
Click to expand...
It looks like the pipe may say ASTM D 1785 and they cut off the end on the right of the pic.

Shopping for pool PVC parts can be confusing. Especially at the "big box' stores where they have PVC suitable for house plumbing mixed in with PVC suitable for pools. It is important to check the markings and select the correct PVC pipes and fittings for use in a pool.

Pool PVC (polyvinyl chloride) should be marked "Schedule 40". Schedule 40 PVC is made for water under pressure. If the pipe has ASTM D 1785 on the pipe, it's suitable for pressure applications. A rating of ASTM D 2665 means non pressure applications and should not be used for pools.

A pipe can be dual rated ASTM D 1785 and ASTM D 2665, but it has to say ASTM D 1785 if it's going to be used for pressure.

The pipe should also be labeled NSF-PW (National Sanitation Foundation - Potable Water) and Schedule 40 PVC.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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