First timer bought a house with a pool that looks great, but..

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WoodenNickel

Silver Supporter
Jul 1, 2021
9
Granbury, Texas
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi All!

I’ve been lurking around here for about 9 months while we were house shopping, learning along the way as we’ve not owned pools before but we were hoping to either put in a pool ourself, or buy a house with one. We’re finally done with the home buying gauntlet and ended up with an existing pool that looks crystal clear and is only about a year old, so I’m hoping it’s balance is in pretty good condition, however..

The last couple of times we were at the property (once a week ago just prior to closing the loan, and once today), we noticed that the AquaRite 900 is showing “4200” on its display and a red solid light on “No Flow”. Both times we saw this, the pool pump was actively running. I presume this means 4200ppm salt level which as I understand is well over the desired high point, and that it’s not generating chlorine due to not detecting any water flow through the SWG, is that accurate?

We own the house now as of a couple of days ago but haven’t moved in yet and it’s an hour away. I won’t be able to do anything pool related until this Sunday after we move in, so I’m trying go get a game plan on what my next steps should be. We asked the previous owners about the current state, but they’ve been completely hands off and told us they use a local pool guy who’s “one of the best around and has a waiting list”, but that was all they knew. The last time we were there, I did unplug the flow detector from the AquaRite and plug it back in, but that made no difference.

Does my assessment sound right, and if so, what’s next?

Thanks!
 

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No flow could mean one or two things. First is that the flow switch needs to be replaced. Second, if you have a variable speed pump it’s not running at a fast enough speed. I have the same salt water generator the salt should be 2700- 3400 ppm (3200 optimal). You need to test your salt level with a good kit. Look for the Taylor salt water test kit. If the salt tests are way off from what your salt cell is saying, it’s probably time to replace the cell. If it’s really that high, you will need to drain the pool down some and replace with fresh water to get the salt down. Also pick up one of the recommended kits here, either the TF-100 or Taylor 2600c.
 
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Orion7319 said:
No flow could mean one or two things. First is that the flow switch needs to be replaced. Second, if you have a variable speed pump it’s not running at a fast enough speed. I have the same salt water generator the salt should be 2700- 3400 ppm (3200 optimal). You need to test your salt level with a good kit. Look for the Taylor salt water test kit. If the salt tests are way off from what your salt cell is saying, it’s probably time to replace the cell. If it’s really that high, you will need to drain the pool down some and replace with fresh water to get the salt down. Also pick up one of the recommended kits here, either the TF-100 or Taylor 2600c.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Attached is the pump motor plate, and as far as I can tell its single speed. My TF-Pro Salt Test Kit just arrived today, so I'll be able to test everything this weekend and see where it's at. The pool and SWG are only a year old, so I'm hoping/assuming the SWG itself isn't bad yet. If the salt really is measuring that high, how urgently does it need addressed? I'm trying to gauge if it can wait a month while we finish other move-in related tasks, or if it's damaging something and needs attention sooner than later.
 

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WoodenNickel said:
Thanks for the info. Attached is the pump motor plate, and as far as I can tell its single speed. My TF-Pro Salt Test Kit just arrived today, so I'll be able to test everything this weekend and see where it's at. The pool and SWG are only a year old, so I'm hoping/assuming the SWG itself isn't bad yet. If the salt really is measuring that high, how urgently does it need addressed? I'm trying to gauge if it can wait a month while we finish other move-in related tasks, or if it's damaging something and needs attention sooner than later.
Click to expand...
It’s not going to generate chlorine as long as it’s showing no flow. It shouldn’t hurt anything. The unit should protect itself if the salt gets too high for it. There are ways to try to recalibrate it (google search that) but mine is usually in line. At a year old I would suspect the salt really is that high. If you filter is really clogged that could also be why your getting the no flow light.
 
You should probably get some liquid chlorine in the pool ASAP, to ensure algae doesn't get started. Pick up a case at Home Depot or Lowes, and use that until you get the SWCG fixed. Pool math is a great way to find out how much to use. You can use liquid chlorine even with a salt water generator, as they both add the same exact thing. Good Luck
 
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Get a VS pump, it will pay for itself in less than 2 years on electrical savings.
While you are cleaning the filter, clean the salt cell and reinstall with the belly down and....
There should be 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. You can install the flow switch after the cell as the cell can count as the 12".
 
Wow 🤩 That’s a beautiful oasis 🏝!! Congrats 🎉
Since the pool is only a year old did they give u an estimated water volume? (as this will be imperative to all calculations)
Maybe there are plans or at least the contractor’s name so u can inquire for yourself to get a round about starting figure.
You can also measure & use the old poolmath web page as a starting point then use acid or liquid chlorine dosing & testing before & afterwards to dial it in.

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com

Looking forward to seeing your test results 😊
Also, there should be some kind of equipment warranty if you have a bad flow sensor.
 

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B,

I'm sure one of the previous suggestions will get you going. For me check the simple stuff usually works best. I'd clean the filter before you do much more. You need to anyway just to figure out your new pool. After cleaning you'll have a new baseline to determine when to clean in future. Looks like you may have one of those gauges that lets you set it at baseline. Double check it's at the right place. Also, at 10 hr per day run time with the 60% you are only adding 1.7 ppm per day. That's probably on the low side pretty soon. So do a TFP regular set of as soon as you can. It never hurts to run FC a little on the high side especially when you're getting to know your new pool. Download Pool Math as soon as you can and use it to predict your salt addition under "effects of adding" menu. Use 1.47 for chlorine production or choose T15 cell.

Pool probably isn't your priority until you get moved in so as soon as you can test frequently for a week or two to get to know your new pool. Once you do with a salt pool life is pretty easy. Only thing to make it better is add an s200 style robot and run it on a smart plug... then your are going to be in extreme trouble free pool nirvana!

Congrats on the gorgeous pool in a great city!

Chris
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Looking forward to seeing your test results
Click to expand...

Thanks all for the suggestions! I ended up out at the house today for other reasons, so managed to get some tests done. Full disclosure, this was my first time testing, so I may have messed up, but I think I followed the directions right :)

Here’s what I came up with:
  • Chlorine Test (FAS/DPD) - 0 ; never turned pink. Added a second scoop of R-0870, and still nothing.
  • Chlorine Test (OTO) - 0 ; not even a hint of yellow.
  • PH - 8.4 ? Looked a shade darker than the highest listed.
  • TA - 200
  • CYA - 40ish? It was dark by the time I was at the house, so was doing this by kitchen light, and have never done it before. With the lighting I had, 35-40 is where it seemed to disappear.
  • Salt - Via test strips that were hard to decipher, I’d say high 3000’s or low 4000’s. I didn’t realize until I got home that I had drop-based tests for this.. I didn’t see it on my quick glance of the kit instructions. I’ll get better measurements next time.
I’ve ordered a new flow sensor in hopes its the issue, but also being ok if it ends up being a spare part. I’m also picking up some DE this weekend so I can clean the filter in case that’s the cause, though I don’t see any obvious pressure issues (waterfall looks good, return jets are strong, pump basket was flowing well after cleaning it today, etc.).

Obviously I need to get some liquid chlorine going, but how much? I don’t have the slightest idea how many gallons the pool is. I have a call in to the pool builder regarding sizing and warranty, but it’s a small shop and I was told it may be Monday before they get back to me because everybody is out in the field.
 
Pool sizes are deceiving and it's hard to tell from a picture (depending on depth of deep end, I'd say 17,000-20,000gals). Get close from the calculator on post #9 and wing it. Clearly you have no chlorine and you don't want that. Depending on when the next time your going to be back, I'd say start with a gallon and test after about 30mins of circulation and see where you are. Better to be high in chlorine after that no sanitizing spell. I'm in Texas too and starting to get the pool rolling. I've been adding about 32oz everyday. I'm at 14,750 and opened my pool with 64oz. The sun and temps are ramping up.

Try the calculator, get close, plug them into pool math and trust the numbers. You'll sleep better.
 
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WoodenNickel said:
Obviously I need to get some liquid chlorine going,
Click to expand...
Always Job #1. If you sustain target range, we have lots of time to figure out or tweak anything else. (y)

I'd dose to target range per pool math at 15k gallons and test after it mixes for 15 mins. Make a couple of fraction calculations and you'll have a much better idea for the next days dose. If your FC overshot by 25%, the pool is 25% smaller than 15k gallons. Or whatevs.

Managing the PH will bring down the TA.

CYA is fine for now, and actually great for you right now with the SWG down.


Keep us posted. :)
 
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Between guestimating the pool size, using pool math, and looking at the FC/CYA chart (for liquid, since SWG is busted), it looks like 1gal of 10% will likely get me at high end target, or a safe margin above that. My wife is going out there today, and while I don't think I can talk her into testing for me (she hasn't done anything with the pool yet, and thinks its too complicated), she's happy to pour in a gallon slowly at a return and let it mix for a bit.

Hopefully that covers things until I can do more this weekend.
 
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Orion7319 said:
If the salt tests are way off from what your salt cell is saying, it’s probably time to replace the cell.
Click to expand...
One thing you might want to try before replacing the sensor is to clean it with a little rubbing alcohol. My sensor was reading well below salt test levels, causing the cell to stop producing chlorine. I thought I was going to have to replace the sensor (or worse, the entire cell), but a quick cleaning of the sensors with rubbing alcohol resulted in readings back in line with the Taylor salt test kit. There wasn’t anything visible on the sensors, but the cleaning helped anyway.

Good luck!
 
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WoodenNickel said:
Between guestimating the pool size, using pool math, and looking at the FC/CYA chart (for liquid, since SWG is busted), it looks like 1gal of 10% will likely get me at high end target, or a safe margin above that. My wife is going out there today, and while I don't think I can talk her into testing for me (she hasn't done anything with the pool yet, and thinks its too complicated), she's happy to pour in a gallon slowly at a return and let it mix for a bit.

Hopefully that covers things until I can do more this weekend.
Click to expand...
That should work.

Good luck with the move. I'd rather take a sharp stick to the eye. lol
 

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