Allen, Historically I keep levels around 2700-2900. Any other ideas what could've burnt the board? I asked the pb an he had no ideas. There was the comment here about lightening storms. I wonder if it could be a something else in the configuration. I'll make a note about the salt. Glad I prefer to keep it low! My idea was always to keep it lower so it's less salt damage around the pool. We should be getting the panel put back in hoping within the hour and I'll report back. thx!
swap out Hayward panel/Jacuzzi cell for Jacuzzi panel/cell or figure out what problem is?
- Thread starter outdoorsgal
- Start date
soldered the k1 and looked like it was working well. i was excitd. this was about an hour ago. i went out, brushed, and tested the salt after it was running for a bit and it measured 3400. I realize the pb was the one who dumped all that salt in the pool a few mths ago when they came out to start up the pool due to a warranty issue and we had to empty to pool and they started it up for us.
With this whole mess, I also noticed algae in the pool. I thought I hadn't gotten the FC under 1 the whole time since the panel went out accept when we noticed the panel went out. I've been adding about 1/3 - 1/2 gallon chlorine each day and keeping it above 1 FC at all times. I went to look at the panel and the check system light is back on and the high salt/amp message is back. I'm extremely frustrated with pb if it's true that this high salt caused this problem and i'm leaving town for 4 days tomorrow. Each gallon of chlorine I add adds more salt and I dont' have time to deal with this. I dont' think it would make sense to fix the panel again unless I lower the salt but on the panel Hayward says it's ok to keep it up to 3400 so that's a bit confusing. pb would never say this is a problem.
i'm wondering what to do as I dont' want the algae to get out of hand while i'm gone and may be able to have someone add a gallon a day and then empty several inches of my pool when i return? what a waste of water. it's only like 5 mths old.
what to do
With this whole mess, I also noticed algae in the pool. I thought I hadn't gotten the FC under 1 the whole time since the panel went out accept when we noticed the panel went out. I've been adding about 1/3 - 1/2 gallon chlorine each day and keeping it above 1 FC at all times. I went to look at the panel and the check system light is back on and the high salt/amp message is back. I'm extremely frustrated with pb if it's true that this high salt caused this problem and i'm leaving town for 4 days tomorrow. Each gallon of chlorine I add adds more salt and I dont' have time to deal with this. I dont' think it would make sense to fix the panel again unless I lower the salt but on the panel Hayward says it's ok to keep it up to 3400 so that's a bit confusing. pb would never say this is a problem.
i'm wondering what to do as I dont' want the algae to get out of hand while i'm gone and may be able to have someone add a gallon a day and then empty several inches of my pool when i return? what a waste of water. it's only like 5 mths old.
what to doand ofcourse i'll have to do a SLAM when i get back. option 2: anyone know how much salt can be in the pool with a circupool SWG? I'm not sure if they r much better should I get one of those? my cheap generic cell is only a handful mths old, though, and I still need the motherboard for the automation so trying to figure out what makes most sense. at least it's running the pool, just not the SWG.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,474
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You want to add more like 5ppm of chlorine per day to keep algae on hold until you can do the SLAM Process
here was the repair. I noticed the solder had a tip but was not pointed up like the others. I thought it made a connection with something but I see now it doesn't so I figured the solder job was fine. the repair guy said it was a relay.
Attachments
wierd thing, i just brushed my pool after 5 gallons of chlorine and no white "powder" so hopefully I'm mistaken and there's no algae. I'll do an overnight measure. I saw some black stringy things on the wall and I didn't know if it was algae or my piece of my kid's black sock that he's been wearing in the pool and playing game with and I saw some questionable spots so I assumed it must be algae cuz when I've doubted spots before thinking it was just a dark pebble in the pebbletec it ended up being algae.
any thoughts on why I'm still getting the msg? could there be something else wrong or would 3400 salt make it blow so quickly? If so, would it make a new board blow right away, too? I'm still confused why mine would go so "fast." How long r these boards supposed to last in Phoenix?
thx!
any thoughts on why I'm still getting the msg? could there be something else wrong or would 3400 salt make it blow so quickly? If so, would it make a new board blow right away, too? I'm still confused why mine would go so "fast." How long r these boards supposed to last in Phoenix?
thx!
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
u mean report readings of the salt? thx. will do Monday late or tues early when back in town
Check these numbers from the diagnostic screen.
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
James, thx. in meantime, what is it we r looking for? r u trying to help me save my board or get to the root of the cause? I'm starting to research other SWGs but I'm wondering if I should just call it a day and get a new hayward board. whatever I do I want to last cuz each x my SWG has a problem and I don't catch it in time I'm spending $100 in chlorine and stress with no swim time for kids anyway. at this point I'm leaning towards replacing board hoping I won't have a problem for a while and next problem assume it's the cell and get a different SWG. thx
just got back. I couldn't find anything similar to what u showed under diagnositc menu until I typed all of this so I figured I"d keep all the info. here r some of the readings:
instant salt- chlorinator off
flow switch flow
cell temps...
vsp speed/power/+ to view
main software revision 4.46
display software revision 3.12
vsp sofwared...
filter display software r3.10R
filter drive software r1.20
RF Base Software r3.00 ID:0609
-40.58V 10.08A (I think A-it's sunny right now and not easy to see)
86 degrees F 1800 PPYM
i took ppics. then i saw the same msg but 85 degrees and 1820 so maybe it was adjusting. i don't think that's when i pressed the +. from what i recall, when I pressed the + the first msg was:
instant chlor off.
filter Sp:1300RPM Pwr:169W...
+40.57V 10.08P (or A/8...?)
86 degrees/ 1800 PPM
Instant dsalt 1800 ppm
instant salt- chlorinator off
flow switch flow
cell temps...
vsp speed/power/+ to view
main software revision 4.46
display software revision 3.12
vsp sofwared...
filter display software r3.10R
filter drive software r1.20
RF Base Software r3.00 ID:0609
-40.58V 10.08A (I think A-it's sunny right now and not easy to see)
86 degrees F 1800 PPYM
i took ppics. then i saw the same msg but 85 degrees and 1820 so maybe it was adjusting. i don't think that's when i pressed the +. from what i recall, when I pressed the + the first msg was:
instant chlor off.
filter Sp:1300RPM Pwr:169W...
+40.57V 10.08P (or A/8...?)
86 degrees/ 1800 PPM
Instant dsalt 1800 ppm
meaning, the guy may not have done a good solder? (not sure if u followed the whole thread that it was just resoldered). Is there a way we can tell by looking at it? I posted pics and the tip was not straight up but I have no understanding about how these things work so I don't know what to think. thx!
I was also wondering if I should empty water before replacing board to lower salt level? thx
The solder might be ok, but the board trace or the relay might be bad.
Or, maybe the solder failed again.
You would need a good repair technician to determine if it is worth fixing.
Can you show a new picture of the entire back of the board?
What is the actual salinity?
Or, maybe the solder failed again.
You would need a good repair technician to determine if it is worth fixing.
Can you show a new picture of the entire back of the board?
What is the actual salinity?
I'm measuring salt at 3400 with Taylor kit. thx
Attachments
This part is dark, which might indicate that the trace has burned through or maybe the relay has failed.
You can replace the board or try to repair it if you want.
You can replace the board or try to repair it if you want.
we got the part that was burnt repaired. what is a relay? we had him solder the k1. is a relay different?
The relay is the black square.
The relay has 6 solder points.
2 points are for the coil, which is what causes the relay to switch. (Blue dots).
3 points are for the power. (Red dots).
The power switch is a single pole, double throw switch.
The relay has 6 solder points.
2 points are for the coil, which is what causes the relay to switch. (Blue dots).
3 points are for the power. (Red dots).
The power switch is a single pole, double throw switch.
The relay is on the opposite side of the board about where the black outline is.
I don't think that the relay was replaced.
I don't think that the relay was replaced.