First test results with TF100 kit:

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Shawman

Shawman

Bronze Supporter
Jan 5, 2021
17
North Houston
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
I had our 60+/- deg pool heated to around 90 deg for a week between Christmas and new years(dreading getting the gas bill) with little chlorine in it evidently so it turned a nice shade of pond green shortly afterwards. I found this site and tried to initiate the SLAM without having a good test kit.
I put roughly 3 gallons of 12.5%(I think) from Pinch a Penny pool store in and removed the rest of the pucks from my chlorinator over a week ago. Having only the cheap Taylor test kit I had no idea what the chlorine topped out at but it was BRIGHT yellow, so I bought the TF100.

Here are the first results from the new test kit I took last night:
FC-5
CC-0
CYA-50
CH-325
TA-110
Ph- 7.8-8.0?
I have always had problems reading/comparing the chlorine and ph level colors correctly in the windows of the regular test kits. I tested it with the small taylor kit and I would have thought it was at the 2-3 level but the new kit says 5.
Let me know what you think of my numbers and where I should go from here as far as adding anything.


Thanks
 
You did not say you have followed the SLAM process. You passed an OCLT, crystal clear water with no debris, and CC less than 0.5?
 
Shawman said:
I put roughly 3 gallons of 12.5%(I think) from Pinch a Penny pool store
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Just so you are aware - Pinch a Penny is 10.5% Chlorine (actually 10%) if you read the details of the labeling.

In addition to the TF-100 test kit you should get the PoolMath app to figure out the effects of adding chemicals.
Glad that your CYA is low. That is helpful to maintain your chlorine levels

After a SLAM, it is always best to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This confirms no hidden algae.

Also, with the TF-100 kit for FC you do not have to compare colors. Using the powder you are looking for a color change from pink to colorless. You only need to use the color comparator for pH - unless you purchase a pH meter.
All tests - FC, CC, CH and TA using the TF-100 kit is based on a color change rather than a color comparison. That is a big plus for those that have issues seeing slight color variations.
 
HermanTX said:
Just so you are aware - Pinch a Penny is 10.5% Chlorine (actually 10%) if you read the details of the labeling.

In addition to the TF-100 test kit you should get the PoolMath app to figure out the effects of adding chemicals.
Glad that your CYA is low. That is helpful to maintain your chlorine levels

After a SLAM, it is always best to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This confirms no hidden algae.

Also, with the TF-100 kit for FC you do not have to compare colors. Using the powder you are looking for a color change from pink to colorless. You only need to use the color comparator for pH - unless you purchase a pH meter.
All tests - FC, CC, CH and TA using the TF-100 kit is based on a color change rather than a color comparison. That is a big plus for those that have issues seeing slight color variations.
Click to expand...
Thats right, Pinch a Penny was 10.5 and NAPCO was12.5 I forgot. I drive by NAPCO going to Pinch a penny so I will get it there from now on. I thought I stated in the original post about how I did the SLAM and my CC was 0 but maybe not. The water is clear and I clean the baskets daily. Do you think I need to SLAM again???
 
Shawman said:
Do you think I need to SLAM again???
Click to expand...
Doing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test will confirm that you do not have any hidden algae. Simply test in late afternoon, early evening and then test again in morning before the sun hits the pool. If your difference in FC is no change or 1ppm or less then you are fine.
 
That is good that you passed the OCLT.

When you say you need to add 37oz, what are you targeting as your FC? That seems a bit low to me.

If you look at the FC/CYA chart in my signature, for a CYA of 50 the target FC is 6-8. That means you want your FC to stay in that 6-8 range all day, so I would actually target 7.5 or 8 when you are adding chlorine to ensure you stay in target until the next time you test and add chlorine.
 
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JJ_Tex said:
That is good that you passed the OCLT.

When you say you need to add 37oz, what are you targeting as your FC? That seems a bit low to me.

If you look at the FC/CYA chart in my signature, for a CYA of 50 the target FC is 6-8. That means you want your FC to stay in that 6-8 range all day, so I would actually target 7.5 or 8 when you are adding chlorine to ensure you stay in target until the next time you test and add chlorine.
Click to expand...
The pool math app autopopulated a 6 as the target FC, I didn’t enter anything so that’s where it calculated the 37 ounces I guess.
so are you telling me I should try to keep the target at 7.5-8 all the time?
 
JJ_Tex said:
That is good that you passed the OCLT.

When you say you need to add 37oz, what are you targeting as your FC? That seems a bit low to me.

If you look at the FC/CYA chart in my signature, for a CYA of 50 the target FC is 6-8. That means you want your FC to stay in that 6-8 range all day, so I would actually target 7.5 or 8 when you are adding chlorine to ensure you stay in target until the next time you test and add chlorine.
Click to expand...

Did his pool really pass the OCLT? He stated the water temperature was 50F. At that temperature, you expect very little algae growth. Therefore, I would expect that even if algae is present, the FC would not drop much due to water temperatures.
 
Shawman said:
The pool math app autopopulated a 6 as the target FC, I didn’t enter anything so that’s where it calculated the 37 ounces I guess.
so are you telling me I should try to keep the target at 7.5-8 all the time?
Click to expand...
Yes, at least when you add chlorine add to the top of the range so that as the chlorine gets used up throughout the day.

@Homebrewale has a good point. I would argue that you still pass the OCLT, but it is something to keep an eye on and another reason to keep your FC as far away from the minimum as you can.
 
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