Transition Planning

Oly · Nov 3, 2020

I'm exploring the installation of a SWG. I purchased a Taylor salt test kit and tested my liquid chlorine treated pool and it tests at 4600 ppm NaCl. I expected I had accumulated some salt since draining and refilling the pool in 7/17 but was a bit surprised at that number. Perhaps relying on 10% liquid Cl drove it up faster. I understand doubling the capacity of the unit and would need a vertical install. My SuperFlow pump is wired to 220 and I bypassed the mechanical timer. I am using the clock box to house the 220 connection that supplys the pump. I understand the safety of having a timer backup to the flow safety. I also know low water temps may limit Cl production in winter.

So I have some questions.

1) Which SWG brands are preferred?
2) Is my NaCl level ok to get started?
3) Can I run a additional wire from one leg of the 220 connection (and a wire for the neutral also) through the mechanical clock to power the SWG? Or will I need to install a dedicated breaker and wire it separately?

Anything else I need to consider before moving forward?

cowboycasey · Nov 3, 2020

We tell everyone any pool is a saltwater pool and most are just like you, surprised when they see how high salt is already

1. I love me some circupool, mine has been rock solid for 5 seasons now, I run my free chlorine at the high level between 7 and 9 at all times... it has no issues keeping it there.. mine is 3 times the size at 45k and I have 15k pool... I am going to be getting a new cell and it will be the 55k so I can run less and get more....

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

For your pool I would recommend a 60k SWG CircuPool RJ-60 PLUS Saltwater Chlorinator | Discount Salt Pool
your salt may be a little high but your going into the wet season so it may go down soon, the system will tell you if it is too high..

As another option you can get the SJ model, this is the one I have and love, it is very basic no frill system.. it has 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% and on/off switch, no brain, just works... CircuPool SJ-55 Saltwater Chlorinator | Discount Salt Pool

Call discount and talk to the tech's, they will walk you through exactly how to wire it on the phone, they did for me, really a great company.. You can use that timer no problem...

Oly · Nov 3, 2020

Does the salt level ppm decline over time with use of the SWG? Is adding salt a part of maintenance of this system? Is so what gets consumed the sodium and/or the chloride?
I understand the pH rises do to the process, any estimate of how much more it drives pH up say SWG vs liquid Cl additions.
My pool water stabilizes at 7.8 to 8.0 and as water temps drop I let it stay near 8 for maintaining my CSI. The manuals I read for SWGs want the pH below 7.8 for "chlorine effectiveness" does this make sense?

mknauss · Nov 3, 2020

Salt does not get used up. If you have splash out or other losses of pool water that is replaced with fresh water, then your salt level will go down.

pH rise will not occur any more than what you had using liquid chlorine. You may find the water prefers to be at a higher pH, say 7.8 or so. There is no reason to maintain a lower pH unless for CSI purposes, and then it is better to let the TA fall to 50 or 60 ppm.

The 'chlorine effectiveness' with a lower pH is a non-factor with CYA in the water.

red-beard · Nov 3, 2020

OLY, one thing to consider which may also affect your choice, is finding a space in your piping for the SWG.

Oly · Nov 3, 2020

Thanks red-beard I was able to find an install manual for the CurcuPool Rj-60 and have sent an email to their tech so I am in the process of figuring out how much piping space I need vs how much I have. I realize that there are some creative ways to install these devices but I would prefer to limit flow restrictions to keep water moving and lower operating pressures.

Oly · Nov 3, 2020

mknauss said:
Salt does not get used up. If you have splash out or other losses of pool water that is replaced with fresh water, then your salt level will go down.

Thanks Marty. As it is I will have to reduce my NaCl ppm. Pool Math estimates a 16% drain and refill to get down to 4000 ppm which is the max recommended for this unit. I knew I was getting a salt taste to the water this season but now knowing my levels are 4600 ppm from only using liquid for the last three years makes my transition decision obvious.

red-beard · Nov 3, 2020

Oly said:
Thanks Marty. As it is I will have to reduce my NaCl ppm. Pool Math estimates a 16% drain and refill to get down to 4000 ppm which is the max recommended for this unit. I knew I was getting a salt taste to the water this season but now knowing my levels are 4600 ppm from only using liquid for the last three years makes my transition decision obvious.

You may want to go lower. One of the SWG articles looks at longevity of the salt cell, and one thing that helps is reducing the TDS levels in the water. So keeping the salt at the lower end of the spectrum is better. You also want to run at the lower end of the whole C.S.I. spectrum, meaning lower pH levels and lower Calcium levels.

Oly · Nov 3, 2020

Good thought about lowing the ppm NaCl so dropping to 3500 is a 25% drain and refill.
My Ca is already near the bottom at 250 but my fill water has a high TA at 150ppm. Going to have to get more muriatic it seems.