Is there a way to diagnose what is wrong without taking the circuit board out? I have a voltimeter...
No Cell Power 2?
- Thread starter Westovers
- Start date
I replaced this circuit board with a new one
, but seems like it might be repairable for future use? There is just one 'burnt' location... (see photos)
, but seems like it might be repairable for future use? There is just one 'burnt' location... (see photos)
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,848
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Touching up burnt solder joints on the Hayward boards often gets them running again.
Although what you show is an Aqualogic board it is the same fix as discussed in...
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Although what you show is an Aqualogic board it is the same fix as discussed in...
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Hayward Aqualogic - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, you need to examine the solder joints on the back of the board.
www.troublefreepool.com
Aqua Plus - Check System, No Cell Power 2
We have a salt water pool with a Hayward pump and a T-Cell-15 TurboCell Salt Chlorination Cell. And as of yesterday we are seeing the Check System / No Cell Power 2, Chlorinator Off / No Cell Power messages on both the unit and on our Aqua Pod Handheld Remote Control for Pro Logic and Aqua...
www.troublefreepool.com
The burned lead can likely be resoldered as Allen said... the odds are good that the plated through-hole is still in tact, so use a bit of soldering flux (for electronics, not plumbing flux!) and then the new solder should flow nicely.
I've never soldered before... Any particular YouTube you could direct me to for this?
hmm, i've never looked for one but i'm sure there's a million... probably some good ones on adafruit, sparkfun or eevblog websites?
Is it possible that the actual cell is just dead/done? No way to diagnose which it is--the board or cell--without taking them out?
It may be an optical illusion from the camera, but is the cap on that capacitor with "LF" on it swelled? If it is, I'd replace it while I was soldering.
The solder joint failed because of excessive heat from the relay due to oxidized or pitted contacts. You need to replace the relay, Omron G8P-1C4P 24VDC, about $10 from Amazon or Digikey. And yes, you can learn to solder on YouTube but big parts, like the relay can be challenging to remove.
Amazon has a combination soldering iron and solder sucker, works pretty well for cheap...
You were right James--one bad solder joint. This is the second board this has happened to (I'm replacing this with my first one repaired). Would you recommend I replace the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse so that the fuse gets blown next time instead? (I read that somewhere as an idea.)
If it is, it is VERY VERY slight... Do you still think it needs replacing?
Could you please elaborate? What and where exactly is the 'relay' you are referring to? I am very inexperienced with working 'under the hood'
I'm sorry, I now realize you were talking about the component opposite the failed solder joint... I thought I just needed to re-solder it... Are you saying the relay MUST ALSO be replaced for it to work again? Or that I could try it first just re-soldered?
Do I have to replace the relay that is connected to the bad joint, or just re-solder the joint?
Yes, he was saying that the leg of the relay is getting hot enough to melt the solder, so you need to replace the relay.
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