Red and Green light blinking and red flow light on IC-40 (both intermittent)

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R

rawb

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May 3, 2017
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Lexington, SC
I have about a 2-year old IC-40 and the red & green light have started blinking indefinitely (the ones at power up) along with the flow light going red. Both of these things have started happening, but will go back to normal sometimes as well without me changing anything. I have never cleaned the salt cell since it was new 2 years ago because every time I take it off and check the salt cells, they look perfect with no white build-up. If I'm supposed to still be acid washing it despite this fact, please let me know as maybe this is my issue. As for the flow light coming on intermittently, I'm not aware of any obstructions. It will come on even after a backwash and even if I run turn the pump up to a high speed.

Thanks in advance for any ideas or advice. Just trying to figure out if it has gone bad.

Robert
 
James...

Thanks for the reply. As I said, the flow light will intermittently go back and forth from green to red. If this flow switch is bad (pardon the ignorant question), but is that inside the IC-40 and if so, can just the switch be replaced or does that render the whole unit useless and mean time to replace? Also, would a bad flow switch cause the other situation with the red and green lights up top to constantly cycle?

Thanks!
 
The flow switch is a separate, easily changed part.
The flashing lights are at the initiation of the SWCG cycle. If flow light is red, they will continue to flash.
 
Flying Tivo,

Thanks for the reply! I just went out to do as you suggested and it's back to green on the flow light and, of course, no flashing green and red at the top. I will try the recirculate next time it acts up. What will that tell us exactly?
 
I have backwashed extensively during the last couple days...have gotten a ton of rain and used the opportunity to backwash/rinse. I haven't, however used anything to attempt to clean the sand filter. Maybe that's the root of my issue more than the flow switch. I suppose that would be an easy thing to try before replacing the switch and see if it helps.
 
There is nothing to ‘clean’ a sand filter. Backwashes or a deep clean with water by disassembling your filter.

any clarifies or floc used, as Felipe asked?
 

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Flying Tivo said:
Your filter is restricting flow. Have you backwashed your filter lately? What is your clean pressure and what is your pressure now in filter mode? Have you used Floccs or Clarifiers while in filter mode? You might need to do a Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
Click to expand...
Flying Tivo beat me to it. I run my VSP as low as possible, just enough to satisfy my SWG (to keep energy costs down). A couple times I've had the same issue as yours because as the filter collects crud, that slows the flow and then undermines the SWG. So I just goose the RPMs a bit until I get around to cleaning my filter.
 
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Negative on the clarifies or floc. I had to floc one time last year when things got mysteriously out of control despite good chemical munbers, but nothing since. Would there be any value in me acid cleaning the salt cell since it's never been done in 2 years or is there no point if there is no visible white buildup?
 
Dirk,

I have done exactly the same as you for the last two years when the pool was built...run my VSP 24/7 at about 1400 RPM's which has always been fine for skimming and salt generation but uses very little electricity. I was surprised that even when I ramped the pump up to 3500, the flow was still red. I figured if it was merely a situation where flow was "starting" to get limited in some way, I would still get a green flow light at 3500, but not the case.
 
rawb said:
Negative on the clarifies or floc. I had to floc one time last year when things got mysteriously out of control despite good chemical munbers, but nothing since. Would there be any value in me acid cleaning the salt cell since it's never been done in 2 years or is there no point if there is no visible white buildup?
Click to expand...
No need to clean cell if there isn't any build up. Every time you would use MA to clean the cell you remove some of the coating from the plates basically shortening its life span. If you keep the CSI in slightly negative territory it may never need to get cleaned.
 
rawb said:
Dirk,

I have done exactly the same as you for the last two years when the pool was built...run my VSP 24/7 at about 1400 RPM's which has always been fine for skimming and salt generation but uses very little electricity. I was surprised that even when I ramped the pump up to 3500, the flow was still red. I figured if it was merely a situation where flow was "starting" to get limited in some way, I would still get a green flow light at 3500, but not the case.
Click to expand...
Then it's likely the switch. Those flow switches give a lot of us problems. I've already had a bad one in a one-year-old cell. My repairman didn't bother, just gave me a whole new unit under warranty.

Related topic: I installed a flow meter to monitor the flow through my solar panels. But it has become invaluable to me for monitoring flow through my vac, my SWG and my filter as well. They're not common, but I think they should be... I rely on mine a lot.
 
Another observation for what it's worth. I just went out and backwashed again (had perfectly clear water flowing through the glass bulb during rinse and flow light was green). Then took a rubber mallet and tapped all around the tank. After doing that, the glass bulb became quite dirty again. I let it continue to rinse until clear again. Then turned the pump back on in filter mode and the flow light is red again. I have gone through an additional backwash/rinse cycle, but still get the red flow light in filter mode.
 
Isn't the warranty on the IC two years? Call Pentair, tell them you're getting a red flow light even with high flow. They'll send someone out. Let them deal with this. Definitely don't swap out the switch yourself if you're still under warranty.
 

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