New to TFP & Green fairly clear tinted water

srweakley

New member
Apr 8, 2020
3
Fairhope, AL
Hi everyone, thanks for this community forum, it's AWESOME! I have learned SO much over the last week reading about pool chemistry and equipment. We bought this house that had a pool and have struggled each year with various things using the pool store each time and spending $ to short term fix so I decided this year, since I'm currently home for Corona (I'm a teacher) that I would take this on myself as we had some light brownish staining on the walls and bottom for the last 2 years that I was bound and determined to get rid of. My first step was to purchase a Taylor K-2006.

Background: We were running the pump at 75% 10 hours during the day (10:30-6:30) and the SWG was set at 55%. Over the last few days I have tested each day (sometimes multiple times) and was struggling to get FC up. Here's my test results so you can try to see a pattern, I hope.
3/31 (pool store test) FC=1.87 CC=.22 PH=7.1 CH=211 TA=1? CYA=43 no copper or iron, Phosphate=281 Salt 2900
Set SWG to 40% in order to drop chlorine levels and use StainFree.
4/1 (midday store test) FC= .03 CC=0 PH=7.0 CH= 281 TA=35 CYA=45ppm no copper or iron, Phosphate = 831 Salt=2970
4/1 (evening store test) FC= .15 CC=0 PH=7.1 CH= 319 TA=37 CYA=39ppm no copper, iron= .1, Phosphate = 825 Salt=3200
Completed the StainFree process and it worked, for the most part. 75% of stains were gone.
No tests done 4/2-4/4
4/5 Received Test Kit in mail
4/5 (1st time using the test, might have been lower) FC= .5? CC=.5 PH=7.3 CH= 370 TA=40 CYA=52ppm
Read that TA needed to be higher so I took measures to raise it.
4/5 (evening test) FC= 1.0 CC=.2 PH=7.3 CH= 370 TA=90
Turned the SWC up to 70% to get more Chlorine going
4/6 2:00pm (pump turned on at 10:00am) FC=.4 CC=0 Salt = 2800
Added a bag of salt since I read the SWG needs to salt to work properly
4/6 4:00pm FC=1.8 CC=.2 Salt = 3200
4/6 6:00pm FC=1.6 CC=.2
4/7 12:00pm FC=only trace amounts (weird)
4/7 4:00pm FC=1.8 CC=.2
4/7 6:00pm FC=1.8 CC=0 PH=7.7 CH=380 TA=90 CYA=57
Decided to run pump 2 more hours a day. Now set to running 50% for 6 hours, 75% for 6 hours (daytime hrs)
4/8 10:00am FC=4.4 (wow! could this have been caused by putting 10 drops in at a time before swirling? ) CC=.2 PH=7.8 CH=370 TA=90 CYA=55
4/8 12:00pm FC=3.2 CC=.2

I've included pictures that I just took (12:00), but I have noticed it getting a little greener, it seems, by the hour. :(
Any ideas?? Thanks for your time to help a newbie!
Stacey
 

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your readouts seem to not match the percision of the tests we do
Please check the following:

If your pool is green, time to SLAM

Recommend reading all of Pool School - Trouble Free Pool
 
First of all, welcome to TFP! We're really glad to have you with us.

To clarify Stargate's response, you can save a lot of reagents in the free chlorine and combined chlorine tests by using a 10ml water sample, a heaping scoop of powder, and then dividing the number of drops to make it totally clear by 2 to get your FC number. 5 drops of the CC reagent and then again, divide number of drops until clear by 2 for CC.

Moving past that, you'll very likely need to SLAM as Stargate has linked. You'll want to use liquid chlorine for that to avoid CYA buildup.
 
Thank you for your replies.

Stargate: I'm using the test kit as directed, which numbers are you looking at in particular that wouldn't jive? Keep in mind that the tests I posted are from the pool store as well as my Taylor kit.

Triptyx: I tried the smaller test sample for FC and CC the first time and I felt like I didn't get as precise of a reading due to the multiplier being .5. I will try your method though. Speaking of the test kit, I never get red when testing TA and CH, it's always pink, is that a big deal?

New info that may help: I believe I have metals in the pool, maybe only a little but I'm not sure as I don't have a test kit here at home for copper or iron. However, when I test the hardness it's always purple-ish blue when I put the 0012 in.
Lastly, even though my FC and CC numbers seem to be in range now, and it's a clear green, you still think I need to slam?
 
.5 is less accurate, yes, but more than enough for our needs, and you won't have to buy reagents all the time. :)

Metals are always possible, do you have access to your local water company's water quality report? That said, metals do not consume chlorine at a high rate. Performing an OCLT with the salter water generator off would be a good start.

 
Ok great! Thx.
I will get a reading on the FC tonight, then do an OCLT test first thing tomorrow before the sun comes out and post the results.

By the way, I know Pool stores are a "no-no" but I called mine to tell them what was going on. I asked them if they had bleach/liquid chlorine for the shocking/slamming option and if the stain-free product they sold me on 3/31 could be causing the green tint problem. They asked to test my water before giving me any advice.

I took a water sample up along with a picture. (after seeing the pic, they described it as an emerald tint). Here were the test results:
FC 1.64 (lower than what my FAS-DPD test reading was)
TC 1.71
CC .07
PH 7.6
CH 360
CYA 41
Copper .2
Iron .1
Phosphate 941
Salt 3400
 
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