On my 220 vs 110 for SWG question, not sure if this matters, but I do plan on running pump & SWG for at least 16 hrs because we like to keep a solar cover on for 24x7 in the spring time to help get the water temps up and I find with solar cover on that long the added circulation time helps. SWG will be set at about 20%
Installed New Circupool Edge 40
- Thread starter markayash
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,271
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
220V vs. 100V for a SWG makes no difference. Supporting dual voltage is a convenience for pool panels that are only wired for 220V. A SWG is a low power device unlike a pool pump where the pump can be more powerful with 220V vs 110V. Wire your SWG for 120V if you have it.
I thought it was for ease of matching the pump breaker(s). 2 legs for 220v pump, one for 110v. Either one of them is overkill once it’s stepped down to 30something volts DC.
I did 110 so I can use a smart plug and set timers etc. Least the Edge 40 only pulls 2amp max on 110 so no issues I can see.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,271
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Not sure what you are saying. No reason to "match" the pump breaker for the SWG.
In some panels or pump timer wired for only 220V you don't find a neutral wire to hookup a 120V circuit.
For the cases where they are wired together at the same breaker. It keeps both legs balanced to wire the SWG to the 220 breaker for the pump. Otherwise one leg of the 220 pump would have extra draw on it, probably tripping the GFI.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,271
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the breaker is a 240V GFCI breaker and you try and connect one hot leg to both a pump and a SWG and the other breaker hot goes to the pump for 240V and the SWG connects to a neutral for 120V the GFCI will immediately trip. That type of "technique" could be done before GFCI breakers. The 120V connection will not be properly GFCI monitored with that type of wiring.
You need one 240V GFCI CB for the pump and a separate 120V GFCI for the SWG. Then all legs are properly GFCI monitored.
But then when the pump trips it’s own breaker, either through a fault or the stupid VS on a non Siemens breaker nonsense, the SWG still has power and has to rely on the flow switch to turn off. With both my SWG and Pump tied together (as 220v) when the pump trips the breaker the SWG gets cut also.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,271
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
True. That's why the SWG has the flow switch as a secondary safety for times like that. That is a rare occurrence.
Rattus Suffocatus
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,657
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
It shouldn't matter one bit for something like a salt chlorine generator. It does on motors and pumps because of their high current draw when on 110V. Do whatever is convenient to you. If/when I get one I may run it on 110V just because it would be easier to monitor for ground faults with a 110V interrupter than a 220V GFCI circuit breaker. Like I'd put it on it's own GFCI....
I have the non VS friendly breaker problem. When it’s acting up it can be a few times a week. Everytime I say it’s finally worth the $100 fix, it stops for 2 months. Lol.
Rattus Suffocatus
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,657
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
I have sometimes wondered about two flow switches with these units rather than a timer. I am sure I am not thinking of something though. It's a Darn shame that the (ripoff, IMHO. Yes all of the big three pool manufacturers) pump manufacturers don't have an output signal on the VS pumps, and you have to kludge up a timer to hook a non-automated cell up....
They get to keep the price down and blame it on the electrician instead. Kinda like when the capacitor blew on my sprinkler pump. The plumbing supply stores didn’t have it because it was an electrical part, and the electric supply stores didn’t have it because it was a plumbing problem. I had to get it from the HVAC supply place because they had ones for central ACs that were within the tolerance to work (+/- 5% )
Rattus Suffocatus
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,657
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
A lot of Ace Hardware stores also have oil filled motor caps as well, as does Amazon and the normal electrical supply stores like Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark. For future reference.
I think it's to sell automation equipment rather than a cost issue. They do have relay inputs on those pumps, after all. Maybe the salt cell people should design in a high/med/low output from their controller to run the pump instead....
I think it's to sell automation equipment rather than a cost issue. They do have relay inputs on those pumps, after all. Maybe the salt cell people should design in a high/med/low output from their controller to run the pump instead....
Dually noted if the need arises again. At the time 4 years ago, the only one online that fit my old irrigation pump was from China with 1 month shipping @ $30. Ouch.
Since I never turn off my pump breaker I just used a 110 breaker off same leg and put labels on the breaker and pump reminding me to turn of SWG first.
laprjns
LifeTime Supporter
- Aug 14, 2012
- 577
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I use this current sensing device, (CR4395-EH-120-110-X-CD-ELR-I). It senses current on one of the pump's 220v lines and switches 120V to my SWCG. When the pump isn't turning there is no power to the SWCG. Current trip point is adjustable. If you don't have 120 available there is a version that can switch 220V (see the second page of the above link). Its a device used in industrial application for motor control and monitoring. Just need to mount it in a box (weatherproof if install is outdoors), make some twist nut connections along with crimping four disconnect terminals. In my opinion is is comparable in cost and installation ease to a timer
Hello I was thinking to get the Core 55 but now I think the Edge 40 would be a better choice. I wanted to ask how much control cable comes with it? try to figure out how far away i can put the control box. Thanks
As you can see Atlanta is in Yellow pollen season which is one reason I wanted to mount it inside a room. Its an open air room but in the shade so stays cooler
I like the edge, I have a 20K pool and running it at 1/3 power ( I run my pump at 2100 rpm 24x7 ) it keep my FC at 5 or 6..But still watching and adjusting down as needed
Also were others have said their runs through a 180 minute cycle this one seems to work a little different. My smart plug measures amps/watts and as I increase the power the amps go up but it never stops running.
Where I have it set now it's using around 78 watts.
I asked and was pretty much told " don't worry about it, set and let it run" Guess they don't understand my brain , sometimes I don't either
I like the edge, I have a 20K pool and running it at 1/3 power ( I run my pump at 2100 rpm 24x7 ) it keep my FC at 5 or 6..But still watching and adjusting down as needed
Also were others have said their runs through a 180 minute cycle this one seems to work a little different. My smart plug measures amps/watts and as I increase the power the amps go up but it never stops running.
Where I have it set now it's using around 78 watts.
I asked and was pretty much told " don't worry about it, set and let it run" Guess they don't understand my brain , sometimes I don't either