My Jandy valve is cracked and needs replacing. I got a Space Saver as there is not a lot of room for a new valve. My problem is when I remove the old valve, I will have a constant flow of water from the main drain. How can I glue new pipe with water flowing through it? Is there a way to stop the flow? Or can you glue with a constant stream of water?
Changing PVC with running water
- Thread starter AnesthetistBulldog
- Start date
abd,
I am not sure how that is possible unless your equipment is way below your water level...
You may be correct, but tell us why you think the water will come from the main drain...
Thanks,
Jim R.
I am not sure how that is possible unless your equipment is way below your water level...
You may be correct, but tell us why you think the water will come from the main drain...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, it is downhill from the pool. The reason I think this will happen is when I clean the pump basket, water rushes out unless I turn the Jandy valve off at “Inlet”. I guess I can plug the hole in the skimmer but I have no idea how to stop the water from the main drain.
Yes, it is downhill from the pool. The reason I think this will happen is when I clean the pump basket, water rushes out unless I turn the Jandy valve off at “Inlet”. I guess I can plug the hole in the skimmer but I have no idea how to stop the water from the main drain.
The skimmer should have a threaded port that you can use a threaded or rubber expansion plug. Your main drain ties into the skimmer at the front port at the bottom of the skimmer and the suction line to the pad should be the rear.
I thought about the test ball earlier. I looked for one in Home Depot, but couldn’t find one. Where else could I look?
So should I unplug the front port in the skimmer and plug the back port to stop the flow of water?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,405
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
How far below the surface of pool is the valve?
If the pressure is not too high, you can make a plug using bread in a tight ball and jammed in the pipe.
Glue on the valve with the valve open.
Then, you can close the valve and finish the plumbing.
When you open the valve and turn on the pump, the bread will get sucked into the pump basket.
If the pressure is not too high, you can make a plug using bread in a tight ball and jammed in the pipe.
Glue on the valve with the valve open.
Then, you can close the valve and finish the plumbing.
When you open the valve and turn on the pump, the bread will get sucked into the pump basket.
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A test plug with some of the metal plate ground down so it will slip through the valve. When the joint is cured, open the valve, loosen the plug and pull the plug out.
Here is my pool equipment. I am guessing it is about 4 feet below the surface of the pool.
Pump basket lid removed. Notice water running out if Jandy valve turned on to main drain.
Found this in my tools. It is called a Clog Buster. My idea is to attach it to a hose, run it through the new fittings, turn on hose which expands Clog Buster in pipe, thus stopping the water flow until glue can dry.
This is to give you an idea of what I’m thinking of doing. What do you think?
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While your "clog buster" may work, have you figured out how to get the pipe and fittings over the hose while it's maintaining pressure on the bulb?
For a different thought, how about taking something like a yoga mat or piece of foam pad and laying it over the main drain to stop (or slow significantly) the water?
For a different thought, how about taking something like a yoga mat or piece of foam pad and laying it over the main drain to stop (or slow significantly) the water?
Put the clog buster and hose through the new fittings and into the old pipe. Turned the hose on, the water flow stopped and I was able to make the repairs. Thanks for all the replies!
