Recent content by jesse-99

Also, if the stains are organic in nature, a chlorine tab against the stain should remove it (for example, stains left by leaves and other organic materials). That, and the vitamin-c test, are super easy and cheap and help you determine what the staining is/isn't, before taking more drastic...

You don't need to drain water to try a vitamin-c test. Get some vitamin-c tablets and hold them against the stain (with your foot or hand if need be) for 30-60 seconds and see if they lessen or disappear. If they do, it's iron staining (though iron staining is typically more red/brown'ish...

I have 37 in floor heads (Caretaker as well). I've never had an issue with either my mobile pool vac, the pool service company's mobile vac, or either of my robotic cleaners. Those heads have some pretty strong springs, I can't imagine any cleaner, robot, etc. having enough suction to pull...

I added one a few months ago after reading many posts by SwampWoman. I went with a dual tank softener that is capable of 3,500 gallons between regenerations of each tank. It literally is the BEST thing I've ever done with my pool related to iron/metals. Since then, I never have to worry...

TA of 20 ? How does it get that low?

Just giving this another bump.

Hmm I never heard of AquaSalt before. 99.9% Pure Sodium Chloride. Where did you buy it from? Direct? or somewhere else? @revitup Edit: Also what brand salt(s) had you previously been using?

I have the following for sale, as seen here: Pool Blaster® CX-1 Battery Powered Robot Pool Blaster CX-1 Cordless Robotic Cleaner. They go for $1,499.00 new. I'll part with mine for $825.00, shipped within the continental US. I know I'll end up taking a huge loss on it but that's the way...

Yep, it was 330 with the fill. from the other day. :( fun times... My well has been high TA forever.

I see that, and I think the accuracy of Effects of Adding is pretty accurate based on my before/after testing. The home page -> pH screen, loses some accuracy when you make large pH jumps (for example, 7.9 to 7.1). When you instead tell it 7.9 to 7.4, it's way more accurate at 1.25 gallons...

Yep the size is 35,500 in the first screenshot, just like it is in the Effects of Adding, also 35,500.

I'm sure this is user error, but... if I'm in Pool Math and on the Home Page, and select the pH button on the top right, entering a target pH of 7.1 (from 7.9 with TA of 300), tells me to add 2.5 gallons of MA. If on the other hand, I use the Effects of Adding page instead to figure out...

I can get water to come out of the air bleeder it seems from a) partially closing the valve on the output side of my filter (even at 1750rpm), or b) running a higher RPM (like 3250). It seems that since running a 0 PSI pressure on the filter is perfectly okay, then I probably shouldn't worry...

@Jimrahbe I guess I started to ask myself this because when I use my new mobile cart (pic above), I literally never get water coming out of the top air-relief valve when I open it. It lead me to believe that water is never getting to the top of the filter, and maybe water isn't even getting...

So I've been wondering... I have a (2) Pentair CC100 filters I use that are specifically tied to a dedicated water feature pump. I run the pump on low RPM usually (1400-1750RPM), so my filter pressure is usually 0-1 PSI. Will the filter still be filtering well enough without any pressure...