Nov 5, 2017
3
Derby, Kansas
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Brand new to group!

I’ve been fighting this for about three years. I don’t know if it’s yellow algae or something else. It’s not ‘yellow’, more sand color, but it’s powder like if disturbed. I’ll shock, vac to waste, replace water loss only to have it return. It’s isn’t selective where it settles and I don’t see it attached to walls, slope of deep end sometimes. It turns white when shocked and if left, returns to its original color. I’m just reading about SLAM and just purchased a FAS-DPD test kit.

I’m diligent with pool maintenance but can’t seem to kick this. Shock weekly. Although this summer has been very difficult to keep chlorine levels in range. Backwash weekly, algaecide every two weeks, pool perfect +phos free weekly. I just read a thread saying pollen looks similar?

It’s a chlorine pool with chlorinator. 18x36, vinyl, ~26,000gal. Sand filter with Ruby red media.

I should also mention, I had to completely drain the beginning of this season due to my yard flooding and dumping tons of mud and debris in the pool.

Would appreciate any help!
 

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Last edited:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: The SLAM Process works very well to kill and remove algae. The FAS-DPD is a great tool to compliment your existing kit. Don't bother with the pool store snake oils like PhosFree, Pool Rx, algaecides, etc. Those will do nothing to remove algae. Algae is all about the proper FC-to-CYA ratio as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. But once you get your FAS-DPD, you'll be able to test and maintain the proper FC SLAM level on that chart (SLAM tab).

Be sure to save our Pool Care Basics page to your FAVs as it has a ton of great resources. If you have any questions about the SLAM Process or anything else just let us know.

 
Brand new to group!

I’ve been fighting this for about three years. I don’t know if it’s yellow algae or something else. It’s not ‘yellow’, more sand color, but it’s powder like if disturbed. I’ll shock, vac to waste, replace water loss only to have it return. It’s isn’t selective where it settles and I don’t see it attached to walls, slope of deep end sometimes. It turns white when shocked and if left, returns to its original color. I’m just reading about SLAM and just purchased a FAS-DPD test kit.

I’m diligent with pool maintenance but can’t seem to kick this. Shock weekly. Although this summer has been very difficult to keep chlorine levels in range. Backwash weekly, algaecide every two weeks, pool perfect +phos free weekly. I just read a thread saying pollen looks similar?

It’s a chlorine pool with chlorinator. 18x36, vinyl, ~26,000gal. Sand filter with Ruby red media.

I should also mention, I had to completely drain the beginning of this season due to my yard flooding and dumping tons of mud and debris in the pool.

Would appreciate any help!
You’ve got algae.

You’ll need a proper test kit or you’ll risk dumping more money into the money furnace. All the things the pool store has been selling you (algaecide, clarifier, phosphate stuff) is all unnecessary and counter productive.

If you’re using tabs and shock, your CYA is likely sky high and preventing the chlorine from sanitizing. Until you know your own results from your own testing, you’re likely just throwing money away.

Wish it weren’t so - but what you’re seeing and what’s not working is what brings people to TFP.
 
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Thank you both for the response. I got my test kit and took a sample to ‘practice’ before I start the process. It seems like an awfully small bottle to use 22 drops to get it to turn clear. Does that seem right?

I’m reading up on the process and will get started. I need to stock up on liquid chlorine.

Last time I had my water tested 7/18/22, my cya was 29 so I need to recheck and adjust before I begin.

Again, I appreciate the warm welcome and responses.
 
It seems like an awfully small bottle to use 22 drops to get it to turn clear. Does that seem right?
Are you referring to the FC test? 22 drops would be an FC of 11 if you used the 10 ml water samples size.
 
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