Pool Pump Won't Make a Sound

[Kdraque3]

Hi all - first time posting and first time pool owner as of this past fall. I had my pool pump motor running 24/7 for the last few weeks (it's not on a timer and I had some algae issues to start season and just never shut it off much). Thursday night while trying to turn on the in-pool light, I turned off the pool pump and now it won't turn on. Won't even make a sound.

I tested voltage on the breaker and the wires coming into the back of the pool pump and they're getting the right power (120V). I even replaced the motor start capacitor this afternoon when it came in from Amazon and that didn't change anything either - still no sound at all when I turn on the breaker. I'm guessing there's another switch or capacitor that might be blown or shorted.

For context I'm in southwest Ohio and it was over 90-95F all week this past week in case that affects things. I'm attaching some pictures of the panel, back of motor, and the label on the pool pump.

What else can I try before I wind up buying a new motor?

 

[Poolbreh]

That’s a dual pole breaker, your pump plug is set for 230v. I’m guessing the breaker on the right is for your pump? You are missing a leg, you should have 230v. It’s probably a bad breaker. If it is 230v wrap some electrical tape around the sleeve of the white wire, so anyone working on it in the future knows it’s not a neutral.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Looks to be a Feb 2018 motor. Not terribly old, but anything can happen. Let's see if @mas985 has any additional diagnosis tips other than the cap you already replaced.

 

[wireform]

With 2 legs of power at the pump the next thing I'd check is that swith with the copper you see in the "v" formation. With power off see if you have continuity across both legs. If you don't the the capacitor isn't in powering the motor when it needs to start. There's a centrifugal switch that disengages it once the motor is up to speed but until that point the contact point where they intersect are closed.

 

[Kdraque3]

I tested the V shaped switch and have continuity there with power off so that’s not it.

Any other ideas. What’s the little black circle up top with CET40ABM written on it? Could that engage before the capacitor or V shaped switch?

 

[Poolbreh]

You need to establish you have the right voltage.

 

[Kdraque3]

You need to establish you have the right voltage.

I don't think I have full voltage right now, though both wires coming in are live with 119V when I test that wire and ground.

How else would I test this?

 

[Poolbreh]

Test across L1 and L2 on the back of the pump. You should have 220-240v it’s nominal. You can test at the 2 terminal screws going into FP CB.

 

[Kdraque3]

Test across L1 and L2 on the back of the pump. You should have 220-240v it’s nominal. You can test at the 2 terminal screws going into FP CB.

Thanks for your reply - Here's what I was trying to say - I get ~120V for each line to ground. But when I test them L1 and L2 together I get nothing. What does that mean?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for your reply - Here's what I was trying to say - I get ~120V for each line to ground. But when I test them L1 and L2 together I get nothing. What does that mean?

That means that you have lost one leg of the power needed to run the motor. You don't have 240v at the motor.

 

[Kdraque3]

That means that you have lost one leg of the power needed to run the motor. You don't have 240v at the motor.

Is that a breaker issue then? Would replacing the breaker to the pump motor resolve this?

 

[1poolman1]

Is that a breaker issue then? Would replacing the breaker to the pump motor resolve this?

Test the breaker. With it "on" test the voltage between the two terminals. If there is 240v you, most likely, have a break in the wire. If not, most likely bad breaker, BUT, test the two large black wires at the top of the bus. If there isn't 240v there the problem lies at the main panel. You may have had one side of a double-pole breaker trip, its not uncommon.

 

[Kdraque3]

Test the breaker. With it "on" test the voltage between the two terminals. If there is 240v you, most likely, have a break in the wire. If not, most likely bad breaker, BUT, test the two large black wires at the top of the bus. If there isn't 240v there the problem lies at the main panel. You may have had one side of a double-pole breaker trip, its not uncommon.

I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?

 

[1poolman1]

I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?

Sounds like bad breaker to me. Turn power to the sub-panel off and pull the breaker. Take it to where ever you are going to get a new breaker to match it and don't be too "sticker shocked" over the price of a ground-fault circuit breaker. Look for burns on the bus bar.

 

[mas985]

What’s the little black circle up top with CET40ABM written on it? Could that engage before the capacitor or V shaped switch?

That is the thermal limiter.

 

[Mike1162]

Let someone confirm but if you have line voltage between L1 & ground and also l2 & ground then the breaker is fine. Problem is if both have 120 volts then you must have 240 volts between L1 & L2. Something isn't adding up!

 

[1poolman1]

I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?

Previously you indicated that there was 120v at the motor. If there is 0 coming from both sides of the breaker, there has to be 0 at the motor. Did you test with the breaker "on?" If there is only 120v at the motor, a test between L1 and L2 will be 0. Something not right with the testing.

 

[Poolbreh]

He was testing each leg with the ground, it’s possible the 120v was fed on both loads with a single wire. He was missing a phase.

 

[1poolman1]

He was testing each leg with the ground, it’s possible the 120v was fed on both loads with a single wire. He was missing a phase.

Yes, but can't have 120v on either leg with 0 coming from the breaker, unless its a testing error. Quote, "I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor."

 

[Poolbreh]

There is no return path to panel. His ground allowed the return path. He also tested the bus bar and got 230v, so assume he is testing accurately. But I could be wrong.