Chlorine gets eaten up in 1-2days???

None of it matters until you get a true CYA #. Many stores consistently measure that high, or really high. You may need some draining if they are way off, or you may need a lot of draining if they were close this time. But the draining and subsequent refilling will make today’s results a moot point either way.

Hand tight until we have better data. Keep adding 5 ppm daily per the poolmath app until the kit comes.
 
You will find TFPC is quite a bit different than pool store methods. We advocate the pool owner doing their own water testing with a proper test kit. See Test Kits Compared
I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
 
Results below

***EDIT*** Whoops I was away from computer and didn't realize Marty answered already.


Nal,

We can't really recommend changes based on results from test kits other than the ones we recommend. Do you have a recommended kit on order? We have two different brandsTest Kits Compared and you can get them from many different outlets. The reason we take this approach is we've found other tests including pool stores to be way off for most things other than metals and phosphates. We don't care about phosphates but we care a lot about everything else. Bad test results can make you do the wrong thing to correct and make bad things worse.

Chris
 
None of it matters until you get a true CYA #. Many stores consistently measure that high, or really high. You may need some draining if they are way off, or you may need a lot of draining if they were close this time. But the draining and subsequent refilling will make today’s results a moot point either way.

Hand tight until we have better data. Keep adding 5 ppm daily per the poolmath app until the kit comes.
I’ve drained 4-6inches for the last 5 days in a row. My cya was at 169 on august 21st and today i got it down to 82.
Should I just keep draining snd filling until it gets below 50?
 
You will find TFPC is quite a bit different than pool store methods. We advocate the pool owner doing their own water testing with a proper test kit. See Test Kits Compared
I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I ordered the Taylor k2006c says it’ll arrive on sept 7th
 
Should I just keep draining snd filling until it gets below 50?
Well in theory yes. *if* the pool store’s # was right. Many times they read it high and you could be well below what they claimed. So you could unnecessarily drain with no reason to. It’s a tough call and Murphy’s is in full effect and whichever way you decide will be wrong.
 
I ordered the Taylor k2006c says it’ll arrive on sept 7th
Yea, I don't believe pool store testing. They had consistently told me my CYA was in the 80 - 120 range (it went up and down which I now know can't really happen).

When I got my test kit it was in the 250 range.

As to your question about bleach being bad for your liner, you need to understand what chlorine is.

In it's natural state, chlorine is a gas. Many large commercial pools actually use gas injection systems to chlorinate their pools. Now, to change chlorine into something we can use at home it needs to be bound to something to turn it into a solid.

The "somethings" that are commonly used are:

  • stabilizer (also known as CYA)
  • calcium
  • lithium
  • or, get this water which is what bleach and liquid chlorine are.

All of these add a little salt to your water, but they add something else. Cal-Hypo add calcium, Tri-Chlor and Di-Chlor (tabs and most granules) add stabilizer, Lithium hypochlorite adds lithium and liquid chlorine adds - water.


All of these things can be bad for your pool (except the water) in large quantities. The stabilizer helps shield the chlorine from UV degradation, but at higher levels it also impairs the ability of chlorine to do it's work. The higher the stabilizer level you have the higher the amount of chlorine you need. Lithium, well that will just drain your wallet as it very expensive. Too much calcium and you start to get scaling on the walls and floors of your pool.

So, why do pool stores push these products? Several reasons.

  • Money would be the first. Unless a pool store is in Florida, Arizona or other year round areas they must make their profit in a short swim season. So, they need to sell you as much as they can as quickly as they can. Additionally, chemical sales is their bread and butter. Profit on a bucket of tabs is much higher than on a gallon of liquid.
  • Secondly, we are an immediate gratification society. We want a magic potion that will fix our problem right now. This is where the industry has tried to ad items like clarifiers, floculants and the like which in a perfect world help get the bad stuff out of the water quickly. They sold you a bunch of this stuff.
  • Third in my book is training. Most pool store employees learn on the job or through seminars taught by chemical salesmen. So, bad information is handed down from employee to trainee and the chemical salesmen teach them to push high profit items. This is especially true in large chain stores where employees are paid commission and managers jobs are based on how much product flows out the door.
Keep adding liquid chlorine until you get good test numbers you know you can trust - yours!
 
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Should I add gallon of muriactic acid to lower alkalinity ? Or wait for kit still?
The fill water will change the TA to something new so it’s all irrelevant until we have good data, act on it and test anew to balance said good data. Hang tight and only worry about adding the 5ppm of FC a day.

It sucks to wait. We get it. But you’re very well chasing your tail if you act on anything in the meantime.
 
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I would add the acid, pool stores usually don't miss the pH by very much. I would add half a gallon now to see how low the pH goes. The gallon would drop the pH to 7.2, that is a large drop at once and is risky if the pool store testing is off and a half gallon will not do much harm.
 
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One other thing to remember on pH is try not to make large changes. The calculations for amount to add are only accurate in a narrow range. I would not go more than .4 pH units at a time.

Chris
 
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Need a white background

I found a "whitescreen" app for my phone and put that behind the comparator, the consistent backlighting makes it a lot easier for me to read the pH accurately. I'm also a bit red/green colorblind but can read the pH test pretty well. The key is matching the color itself, not to get fooled by differences in brightness (the backlighting helps with that).

I'd guess the test above is halfway between 7.8 and 8.0 (I interpolate as 7.9 when mine's there), but really need against a white background.
 
I found a "whitescreen" app for my phone and put that behind the comparator, the consistent backlighting makes it a lot easier for me to read the pH accurately. I'm also a bit red/green colorblind but can read the pH test pretty well. The key is matching the color itself, not to get fooled by differences in brightness (the backlighting helps with that).

I'd guess the test above is halfway between 7.8 and 8.0 (I interpolate as 7.9 when mine's there), but really need against a white background.
85EFF8EE-BBDD-42FF-9BB7-9930A66292A4.jpeg
 

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