My results with Taylor k2006c

Overnight, there's no sun to consume FC. If you didn't have a SWG running, and tested after sunset and again before sunrise, your should have essentially zero FC loss. I'm concerned that yours only went up 0.6.

Speaking of 0.6, that tells me you're using a 25 mL sample size. Using a 10 mL sample is fine, and uses significantly less reagents. Pools don't need the 0.2 level of precision that 25 mL sampling provides.

Anywhere between target and SLAM level on the FC/CYA chart is safe for both your pool and your kids to swim in. Especially while getting your SWG dialed in, it's best not to be too close to the bottom of target, nor SLAM level, since we aren't sure what your pool is going to do yet.

Keep testing and reporting your results. We'll get it dialed in and you'll know what to expect in short order.
Thanks for the reply and info, what’s the concern that my SWCG only produced .6 FC over night? Is it supposed to increase more FC when the suns not out? I was under the impression the SWCG was more to maintain my FC levels. Again thank you and really appreciate the guidance.
Ed
 
Ed, your SWG "should" show some FC gains overnight. You tested at about 6:00 PM yesterday, so if you had some sun you might have lost a little FC to that before nightfall. Just a little. But I wouldn't get too worried about that just yet. Some of this is still new. For the FC testing, I would recommend the 10 ml sample size (standard). The 25ml x .2 is too precise and uses more reagents. So just do the following from no w on:

10 ml water sample size with ONE generous scoop of powder. Mix and add drops until clear and divide answer in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10. Marty will be back soon to follow up with you. :)
 
Ed, your SWG "should" show some FC gains overnight. You tested at about 6:00 PM yesterday, so if you had some sun you might have lost a little FC to that before nightfall. Just a little. But I wouldn't get too worried about that just yet. Some of this is still new. For the FC testing, I would recommend the 10 ml sample size (standard). The 25ml x .2 is too precise and uses more reagents. So just do the following from no w on:

10 ml water sample size with ONE generous scoop of powder. Mix and add drops until clear and divide answer in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10. Marty will be back soon to follow up with you. :)
Ok perfect makes sense. I’ll switch to the 10ml. Appreciate the guidance.

ed
 
Tonight’s results are as follows, FC seems to be holding at 10. Should I back off my SWCG a bit or leave it? TA came down a bit after aerating today and CYA has gone up to 60 so hopefully will get to target 70 in next day or so. Calling for rain the next few days so not sure what that will do to my pool.

FC 10
CC 0
PH 7.6
TA 100
CYA 60
Any thoughts, concerns, suggestions are appreciated.

thanks,
Ed
 
Ed, your SWG "should" show some FC gains overnight. You tested at about 6:00 PM yesterday, so if you had some sun you might have lost a little FC to that before nightfall. Just a little. But I wouldn't get too worried about that just yet. Some of this is still new. For the FC testing, I would recommend the 10 ml sample size (standard). The 25ml x .2 is too precise and uses more reagents. So just do the following from no w on:

10 ml water sample size with ONE generous scoop of powder. Mix and add drops until clear and divide answer in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10. Marty will be back soon to follow up with you. :)
Does the SWG run 24 hours or is it on a timer?
 
I’ve been testing everyday to get things dialed in. Tonight’s results

FC 13.5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 110
CYA 60
Salt 4000
CH 380
My SWCG is running 24 hours at 80%. I was thinking I’d back it off to 60% but leave it running 24 hours.

any thoughts, ideas or concerns @Texas Splash or @mknauss
 
Ed, if your FC is holding better now with no concerns for algae or excessive overnight loss, you certainly can reduce SWG output and/or pump run time. Either one will help to reduce the FC until you find a good balance of run time and out.
 
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Ed, if your FC is holding better now with no concerns for algae or excessive overnight loss, you certainly can reduce SWG output and/or pump run time. Either one will help to reduce the FC until you find a good balance of run time and out.
Perfect thanks guys.
I dialed it to 60% and will leave it for a day as supposed to rain all day tomorrow and then re-test again Wednesday and see how things are holding.
Ed
 

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Looking good. At least that FC finally fell a couple notches.
Yes agreed, I’m going to add some calcium tomorrow when my wife can go get me a big bucket to dissolve it in first and then I’ll look at draining a little water and adding fresh water to bring the salt down to 3600-3700 ppm. Once that’s done I should get a more accurate reading on my CYA as it will have had a week to dissolve. Then I’ll get the CYA up to 70 ppm.

pool is really clear already. Love it!!!
Ed
 
You reported your CH at 420 ppm. You do not need any calcium added to your pool water.
You reported your CH at 420 ppm. You do not need any calcium added to your pool water.
ahhhh ok, pool math app says ideal is 450 and to add but, You’re right it is in the approved range so I’ll leave it.
Thank you.
 
Tonight’s results….things seem to be holding pretty well, no huge changes. I’m still gonna wait a few days before adding more CYA to ensure what I did add has fully dissolved.

FC 9
CC 0.5
PH 7.6
CYA 55
CH 420
TA 100
Salt 4000
Thanks,
Ed
 
Rounding up your CYA to 60, I would not add any until a test shows 50 ppm CYA. In your climate, the low end range of CYA should work fine.
 
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Rounding up your CYA to 60, I would not add any until a test shows 50 ppm CYA. In your climate, the low end range of CYA should work fine.
Ok perfect I will hold off for now, and continue to maintain levels. I may play with my pump speed a bit as it’s currently running 24 hours. I’ll likely leave it 24 hours but might just slow it down at times
Thanks,
Ed
 
Two reasons to run your pump, generate chlorine and skim. Determine the minimum rpm to generate chlorine. That is the base rpm. Then determine what it takes to efficiently skim. Use that (if higher) as necessary.
 
Two reasons to run your pump, generate chlorine and skim. Determine the minimum rpm to generate chlorine. That is the base rpm. Then determine what it takes to efficiently skim. Use that (if higher) as necessary.
Yup thats why my rpms are wonky all day lol I have to run at least 2000 to have good returns & skimming. And since every leaf & debris from entire neighborhood ends up in my pool, I keep it skimming 24/7, I have it increase to 3000 during middle of night just to pick up any remnants and usually when I get up at 5am its spotless and starts back over at 2000
 
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