Hey everyone- I attempted to open my pool this morning and as soon as I would turn my breaker on, it would flip right back off. I disconnected my pump from my easy touch panel and the breaker stayed on. I reinserted the wires back into the breaker lugs and tried again. Now the breaker isn’t tripping but the pump won’t turn on (no power on display). I’ve got 120V on each white wire going to the pump and I never disconnected the ground. Any ideas?
Pump Won’t Power On - No Display
- Thread starter ChadS44
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you have 240V between L1 and L2?
White wires is the wrong color coding for hot wires. Post pics of the pump wire connections.
White wires is the wrong color coding for hot wires. Post pics of the pump wire connections.
Yes. 240 between l1 and l2. I pulled the pump motor assembly with plans to bench test it at a service center later next week.
Attachments
Last season I had a similar issue with The breaker tripping immediately and I had an electrician replace the GFCI breaker and I did not have any more issues the rest of the season.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the screen does not light then chances are you have a failed drive. A replacement drive costs around $600.
I don't think a service center can operate that type of motor without an operational drive.
BTW, whoever wired your electrical panel should have wrapped black tape around the ends of the white wires to indicate they are hot wires and not neutral wires. You should do it for safety reasons.
@Jimrahbe @JamesW
I don't think a service center can operate that type of motor without an operational drive.
BTW, whoever wired your electrical panel should have wrapped black tape around the ends of the white wires to indicate they are hot wires and not neutral wires. You should do it for safety reasons.
@Jimrahbe @JamesW
Thanks. I will do that. Is there a chance that a faulty drive would trip the breaker like this? Or is that more likely to be motor windings shorting out?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It is the drive that fails in these pumps, not the motors.
Welcome to the new world of VS pumps.
Welcome to the new world of VS pumps.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,264
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That electrician replaced your pump CB with a non-GFCI version. That is not right and to code.
That is why you had no problems. He removed your GFCI protection.
Your pump was putting up yellow flags that it had a problem. Removing the GFCI kept it running until it failed.
What is the exact voltage between L1 and L2?
Probably because the new beaker is not GFCI.
There was a problem that was ignored and it was a bad situation.
Your electrician was incompetent and they should probably not be doing this type of work.
You need a good electrician who knows what they're doing.
Chad,
Do you have a salt cell? If so the SWCG transformer is not wired correctly either .. It should be wired through the pump/filter relay, not directly to a circuit breaker..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Do you have a salt cell? If so the SWCG transformer is not wired correctly either .. It should be wired through the pump/filter relay, not directly to a circuit breaker..
Thanks,
Jim R.
I guess my question now is if it’s possible that the drive unit was causing these issues in the first place and not the motor. Can a faulty drive unit cause a grounding issue and trip the GFCI breaker? Just wondering if it’s worth buying the entire pump system or spending the $600 on the drive.
What is the exact voltage between L1 and L2?
What is the manufacturing date on the sticker on the front of the pump?
What is the manufacturing date on the sticker on the front of the pump?
Exact Voltage is 240v and the date is 6/17/2014. Product number is 011018. Thanks for your help!
You should have an electrician check the wiring and bring it up to code.
There is insufficient information about the pump to determine what the problem is.
You can take it to a motor repair shop for analysis or you can get a new pump if you feel like the old one is bad.
The pump is rated for 16 amps but the breaker is 15 amps.
Also, the breaker needs to be gfci.
There is insufficient information about the pump to determine what the problem is.
You can take it to a motor repair shop for analysis or you can get a new pump if you feel like the old one is bad.
The pump is rated for 16 amps but the breaker is 15 amps.
Also, the breaker needs to be gfci.