Drain pool or chem treat?

[qsmith3741]

Hello all, I have a 33k gallon vinyl pool. It’s got a sand filter on it. I just replaced the motor to the pump. Unfortunately, a hurricane last season unbalanced my chemistry. I opened it up and it’s greener than ever. I shocked it, it was blue for a while(cloudy so I couldn’t see bottom) and then the motor went out and it’s now green. A pool company an hour or so out is saying they will get it right with chemicals for about $400 while the local pool company is adamant that I need a pump and clean( they want to drain it and clean it and refill) which is around $650 and then an extra $150 to fill it back up. What do you all think I should do? I’m new to this. I’ll test it with my strips when I get back home. I’ve raked a bunch of leaves off the bottom and now when I am raking I’m getting little to no leaves. Below I’ve attached the pictures of how it looked right when I took the cover off, and then after the shock treatment and then I’ll attach the current picture once I figure out how to upload a “file too large”.

 

[qsmith3741]

Here is the current picture

 

[mknauss]

As you cannot drain a vinyl liner pool, the best you could do is dilute the mess a bit.
You will need to remove all large debris with a net. Then follow the SLAM Process. You will need a proper test kit to do the SLAM, see Test Kits Compared

 

[Cwiggs]

Most pool companies don't use the TFP method, and I like the TFP method . Personally I wouldn't trust either of the pool companies to do it right, I would do it myself.

I don't really see why you couldn't fix the pool without draining it, but it's more of a comparison between how much it'll cost to fill, vs how much it'll cost in chemicals. You can get the pool back to normal with just basic chemicals.

If you want to do it yourself you'll need a good test kit to start, the test strips are garbage, don't waste your money on them.

It's also a good idea to update your signature with your pool info to get better help.

Good luck!

 

[Newdude]

Hey Q and Welcome !!!

Unfortunately, a hurricane last season unbalanced my chemistry

Sorry for that but we got you now.

I’ll test it with my strips when I get back home

*puts on flame suit*. Check the test kits compared link by Marty above.

and then after the shock treatment

*puts on a second flame suit*
Check the SLAM link also posted by Marty above.

(just joking about the flaming. We don’t do that here. You are new and didn’t know better. We will teach you kindly ).

 

[qsmith3741]

Hey Q and Welcome !!!

Sorry for that but we got you now.

*puts on flame suit*. Check the test kits compared link by Marty above.

*puts on a second flame suit*
Check the SLAM link also posted by Marty above.

(just joking about the flaming. We don’t do that here. You are new and didn’t know better. We will teach you kindly ).

Thank you!

 

[Newdude]

Here is a thread chock full of people with pools as bad, or worse. Keep reading and scrolling it’s HUGE !!

Yours seems like the end of the world right now but believe me it’s just another day at the office for the fine folks of TFP.

 

[qsmith3741]

Here is a thread chock full of people with pools as bad, or worse. Keep reading and scrolling it’s HUGE !!

Yours seems like the end of the world right now but believe me it’s just another day at the office for the fine folks of TFP.

Should I balance ph and cya levels before shocking? And should I use this calcium hypo or should I buy Clorox...

 

[mknauss]

Should I balance ph and cya levels before shocking?

Until you have a proper test kit, you do not want to add anything to the pool but liquid chlorine. Two gallons of 10% liquid chlorine each evening with the pump running. When you get your test kit, run a full set of tests and post them to this thread for guidance.

 

[Newdude]

Should I balance ph and cya levels before shocking

Like Marty said we have no idea what the levels are without the proper, reliable, repeatable test kit. The repeatable part is almost as important and consistency in testing is key. Guess strips, and even worse, the pool store will make things worse by being off in the first place.

Once you have your kit, you are right that PH and CYA will be the keys. The PH needs to be a low 7 because once you go over 10ppm FC, the PH results are no good. So if you start off ok, it should stay OK for the next week or two as you SLAM Process.

The CYA level will tell us what your target PPM of chlorine is, based on the holy grail of charts here : FC/CYA Levels. If your CYA is too high we may be draining some before starting. Again, we need the test kit to know.

Until it comes, add Plain Jane, unscented, no splashlses, no colormax technologies or any other additive mumbo jumbo on the label.... bleach like Marty said. It may be sold as chloinating liquid, liquid pool shock or disinfecting bleach. The pool aisle at HomeDepot, Lowes or Walmart should be fully stocked by now in your warmer climate.

 

[qsmith3741]

Like Marty said we have no idea what the levels are without the proper, reliable, repeatable test kit. The repeatable part is almost as important and consistency in testing is key. Guess strips, and even worse, the pool store will make things worse by being off in the first place.

Once you have your kit, you are right that PH and CYA will be the keys. The PH needs to be a low 7 because once you go over 10ppm FC, the PH results are no good. So if you start off ok, it should stay OK for the next week or two as you SLAM Process.

The CYA level will tell us what your target PPM of chlorine is, based on the holy grail of charts here : FC/CYA Levels. If your CYA is too high we may be draining some before starting. Again, we need the test kit to know.

Until it comes, adding Plain Jane, unscented, no splashlses, no colormax technologies or any other additive mumbo jumbo on the label.... bleach.
It may be sold as chloinating liquid, liquid pool shock or disinfecting bleach. The pool aisle at HomeDepot, Lowes or Walmart should be fully stocked by now in your warmer climate.

I will order the test tonight. Thank you all for your help and God bless

 

[Newdude]

That's the STUFF !!!! Did somebody go over date codes with you ? You want the freshest stuff that's preferably less than 2 months old. Some of the current supply could be last years. Look for a long # that starts with 20 or 21. That's the year. The next 3 digits are the day. Made on Jan10 2021 would be 21010 for example. ( Don't worry you can Google the Julian date if you have the day #)

 

[qsmith3741]

That's the STUFF !!!! Did somebody go over date codes with you ? You want the freshest stuff that's preferably less than 2 months old. Some of the current supply could be last years. Look for a long # that starts with 20 or 21. That's the year. The next 3 digits are the day. Made on Jan10 2021 would be 21010 for example. ( Don't worry you can Google the Julian date if you have the day #)

I have not heard ab that. Uhoh. Lemme look

 

[qsmith3741]

I have not heard ab that. Uhoh. Lemme look

Blue caps were manufactured this year

 

[Newdude]

The TF-100 has a XL version with more of what you will be needing to SLAM. The SLAM requires many more tests than normal and you will use up most of what you get. Also as a beginner you will need a few tests to be good at it. If memory serves the XL option was about $30 and you check both boxes for needing it. The smartstir/speedstir will be another $30 but be the best $30 you ever spent. You would have to pry it out of anybodys cold dead hands for them to give it up.

 

[Newdude]

Blue caps were manufactured this

See ??? we saved you approximately $30 on useless bleach already and we haven't even started !! So the XL option is basically free now. Splurge on the stirring device and the first pool store trip that you dont will save you HUNDREDS more than the total kit cost. Every *other* time that you don't need the pool store is gravy in the bank !!

 

[qsmith3741]

See ??? we saved you approximately $30 on useless bleach already and we haven't even started !! So the XL option is basically free now. Splurge on the stirring device and the first pool store trip that you dont will save you HUNDREDS more than the total kit cost. Every *other* time that you don't need the pool store is gravy in the bank !!

Thank you. How should I dump this chlorine in. And is the only website where I can find the T-100 is tfteskits?

 

[qsmith3741]

I just finished adding the liquid chlorine. Is it okay if I leave the pump on overnight? Or should I kill it

 

[Newdude]

Just pour it in, in front of a return jet, slow enough that it won't glug-glug all over you. It is heavier than water and when adding alot, like a gallon or more, it's a good idea to brush the general area for a minute afterwards in case any was sitting on the bottom.

Yes the pump can run overnight just fine.

Tftestkits.net is the spot for the TF-100. Its the regular Taylor reagents, repackaged in dosages that better suit our way of doing things. Made for us, by one of us kinda thing. The service is amazing and it's a great product. An all around win. Or order the Taylor K2006C from Amazon or maybe Leslies.

 

[jseyfert3]

Here is a thread chock full of people with pools as bad, or worse. Keep reading and scrolling it’s HUGE !!

Yours seems like the end of the world right now but believe me it’s just another day at the office for the fine folks of TFP.

I think you forgot a link.

The smartstir/speedstir will be another $30 but be the best $30 you ever spent. You would have to pry it out of anybodys cold dead hands for them to give it up.

There’s some things I own that if they die, I’d buy a replacement eventually. There’s some things I own that if they die I buy a replacement that day. The SpeedStir/Smartstir is one of the latter.