PVC and Filter Replacement, but need advice on changes

Aug 15, 2018
33
DFW, TX
Howdy all... Good news is that my new Pentair CCP420 filter is supposed to ship this week! Now that it's "in the mail" I am looking to gather up some PVC to be prepared to get everything back in operation.

Here's some pics of current setup. We inherited this when we bought the house in 2018. Since then, I've removed the dead boost pump and capped off that line to the pool (We now have a robot). During the 2021 Texas Winter Apocalypse™ our DE filter and pump housing burst, along with a piece of PVC. I'll be getting rid of the puck chlorinator.

My goal is to install the new Pentair CCP filter, new pump housing, and replace any cracked PVC lines.

Items circled and X'd are busted:

pump pad1-notes.jpg

The backwash valve (not sure of proper name) at the filter is old, and I want to replace it. What I'm not sure about is what exactly is this valve, and do I want the same or something different? Does a cartridge filter get backwashed? If not, what valve do I need here and should I still have the backwash line in place for partial pool draining?

This valve.... See here:

pump pad3-notes.jpg

In closing (sorry so long-winded), New CCP filter will replace the DE filter, and I need some help with that valve replacement and if CCP filters need a backwash line/valve?

Thank you!
 
Cartridge filters do not have a backwash valve. Pipe goes directly in and out. When you need to clean the filter you open it up.

Replumb your entire equipment pad from the pump through the filter and out. It will be very simple.
Use unions to connect to your pump and filter.
 
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It is unfortunate you have so many items to replace but on the positive side you get to design your own set up and have new equipment. You do not state how you plan to chlorinate your pool. It is good that you are removing the inline puck dispenser. You could jump to SWCG since you have to replumb it all. Or do you plan to use liquid chlorine?

You do not need to backwash a cartridge filter - just pull it apart to clean it every 6 mos or so (depending on your environment of trees, etc. ). The purpose of that backwash on your DE filter was 2-fold - first you had to backwash it to put the used DE in the drainage pipe and second - it did allow you to drain your pool to that same drainage line you marked. Another way to drain your pool is by a submersible pump - you could actually make a connection to that same drainage line if you wanted to do that.

Your plumbing will be quite straightforward - pump direct to filter inlet, then filter outlet to your return line. If you wish, since you also will remove your booster pump, you could tee together your existing return line and your cleaner line to the pool. This will give you an extra return. Suggest you put a valve on it so you can turn it off or on. You could even make that cleaner line a future sprayer to cool down your pool water.

Another alternative is to just tie your suction to the booster pump to your cleaner return line directly. This will keep water circulating through it so no algae can grow in it. The "normal" hook up for a booster pump is that its suction line is tied to a return line (that is why you have to have the main pool pump on to operate the pressure side cleaner). So tying the suction and the cleaner return together just keeps that same circulation path but without the pump in the middle.
 
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Reactions: Global Charming
It is unfortunate you have so many items to replace but on the positive side you get to design your own set up and have new equipment. You do not state how you plan to chlorinate your pool. It is good that you are removing the inline puck dispenser. You could jump to SWCG since you have to replumb it all. Or do you plan to use liquid chlorine?

You do not need to backwash a cartridge filter - just pull it apart to clean it every 6 mos or so (depending on your environment of trees, etc. ). The purpose of that backwash on your DE filter was 2-fold - first you had to backwash it to put the used DE in the drainage pipe and second - it did allow you to drain your pool to that same drainage line you marked. Another way to drain your pool is by a submersible pump - you could actually make a connection to that same drainage line if you wanted to do that.

Your plumbing will be quite straightforward - pump direct to filter inlet, then filter outlet to your return line. If you wish, since you also will remove your booster pump, you could tee together your existing return line and your cleaner line to the pool. This will give you an extra return. Suggest you put a valve on it so you can turn it off or on. You could even make that cleaner line a future sprayer to cool down your pool water.

Another alternative is to just tie your suction to the booster pump to your cleaner return line directly. This will keep water circulating through it so no algae can grow in it. The "normal" hook up for a booster pump is that its suction line is tied to a return line (that is why you have to have the main pool pump on to operate the pressure side cleaner). So tying the suction and the cleaner return together just keeps that same circulation path but without the pump in the middle.
Thank you for the ideas! I like the thought of having an extra return line, but I'm not following on the sprayer to cool the pool... Sounds like a great thing, though.

The booster line to the pool was capped off last year. Any harm in using it now after so long? How would I even clean it?

Finally, I use liquid chlorine from Home Depot and manage my pool the simple way. Never used the pucks, except for an extended time away from home or if in need of stabilizer.
 
I like the thought of having an extra return line, but I'm not following on the sprayer to cool the pool... Sounds like a great thing, though.
Search for cool sprayers on the forum - there are lots of ideas. If you put a valve on this line then you can control if on or off. People have made a sprayer that connects to the threaded part in the pool. I have seen several pictures so there are many ideas to consider.

The booster line to the pool was capped off last year. Any harm in using it now after so long? How would I even clean it?
There is always a risk of algae in that line but no easy way to clean either now or once you hook it up. Maybe once you uncap it, you could pour LC down that line and let it sit while you connect all the pipe together. Another idea is to hook it all back up so your main pump feeds it as discussed. Assuming you still have your hose from your pool cleaner you could reconnect that to the wall connection and put the cleaner/hose on your deck and let the first couple of minutes flow through that then shut off pump. Now you have to be careful that the hose does not whip around. However, I think if you add some more LC you should be able to kill whatever, if any is in that line.
 
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Reactions: Global Charming
Search for cool sprayers on the forum - there are lots of ideas. If you put a valve on this line then you can control if on or off. People have made a sprayer that connects to the threaded part in the pool. I have seen several pictures so there are many ideas to consider.


There is always a risk of algae in that line but no easy way to clean either now or once you hook it up. Maybe once you uncap it, you could pour LC down that line and let it sit while you connect all the pipe together. Another idea is to hook it all back up so your main pump feeds it as discussed. Assuming you still have your hose from your pool cleaner you could reconnect that to the wall connection and put the cleaner/hose on your deck and let the first couple of minutes flow through that then shut off pump. Now you have to be careful that the hose does not whip around. However, I think if you add some more LC you should be able to kill whatever, if any is in that line.
Very helpful, thank you!
 

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