Liquid chlorine vs tabs

[McGene]

It's time to buy more 3" tabs for my pool and darn are they expensive!
I don't need many since I use the item in the pic below. I put the 3 tabs in a little duck that floats and I only need to replace them about every 6 weeks (I think).
Since the solar pool thingy does such a good job -- I never have algae and the pool doesn't have a strong smell of chlorine. Frankly, we don't use the pool very much -- I use it to cool off after working in the yard on a hot summer day here in Florida!
Anyway here's my question: Is using bleach a viable option and if so, how much would be comparable to what I currently do? My pool is about 13,500 gallons.
Thanks for any thoughts and recommendations --
Gene

 

[duraleigh]

If you are getting 6 weeks of protection from algae out of 3 tabs in a 13k pool, I would not change a thing. Those numbers don't seem right at all to me but I would say they are Wa-a-a-a-ay cheaper than you think!

 

[Donldson]

You do know that thing is just dumping copper in to your water, right?

 

[wireform]

Like Donaldson said,
If you like the copper aspect of it then use it but it's not of the TFP recommended gadgets. I've had customers stop using it swearing the pool will turn green and assured them if it did it's on me. Well as of now non ever did. It's how you deal with the FC that'll keep the algae at bay. Can't say it enough.

 

[Bperry]

It's time to buy more 3" tabs for my pool and darn are they expensive!
I don't need many since I use the item in the pic below. I put the 3 tabs in a little duck that floats and I only need to replace them about every 6 weeks (I think).
Since the solar pool thingy does such a good job -- I never have algae and the pool doesn't have a strong smell of chlorine. Frankly, we don't use the pool very much -- I use it to cool off after working in the yard on a hot summer day here in Florida!
Anyway here's my question: Is using bleach a viable option and if so, how much would be comparable to what I currently do? My pool is about 13,500 gallons.
Thanks for any thoughts and recommendations --
Gene
View attachment 164922View attachment 164922

Yes, bleach is a good alternative as long as it doesn’t have any fabric softeners, or anti foaming agents/perfumes in it. If you use “pool shock” from Walmart, it’s probably a better option.

That said, using those pucks can cause trouble over time.

 

[McGene]

Actually, I have been using the "copper thing" for a few years and have seen absolutely no ill-affects. The amount of copper is so negligible that it's almost undetectable. However, it does keep the water sparkling clear and I think that's why the chlorine tabs last so long. I was concerned about the build up of CYA as a result of using the tabs (plus the cost). I purchased some 10% pool grade bleach yesterday and will conduct some tests before using it. At this time my pool is (and has been) crystal clear and I don't smell like chlorine after a swim.

 

[Donldson]

The amount of copper is so negligible that it's almost undetectable.

Then it is literally doing nothing to prevent algae. You're attributing it for keeping algae at bay in the same breath you say there's barely any in your water. Which is it? How exactly are you measuring your copper level anyway?

Chlorine tab erosion has nothing to do with actual chlorine demand and everything to do with water flow. They are lasting so long because you're putting them in an inadequate feeder designed for tiny 1000 gallon pools. You're not smelling chlorine in the water because there isn't any in your water. 3 tablets in 13,500 gallons over 6 weeks means unsanitary and unsafe water, plain and simple.

I really think you need to do a lot more reading. I suggest you start here: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry And definitely here: FC/CYA Levels

 

[McGene]

Thank you, Donldson. I may have a misunderstanding of what's going on in my water -- all I can say is that the water is crystal clear, it does not smell of chlorine, my hair does not turn green, etc.
Actually, I've been keeping saltwater aquariums (large and small) for years and initially everyone (including me) is preoccupied with water chemistry which often takes the joy out of the hobby. I see that happening here as well.
So, let's not over do it.

 

[Mdragger88]

Just remember you can’t see pathogens. The absence of algae/ clear water doesn’t mean safe or else they wouldn’t send out boil water alerts unless your water looked bad.
Please adhere to theFC/CYA Levels for healthy, safe, & clear water.
PoolMath can help you calculate necessary chlorine & other additions.
If you can post some test results we can help guide you in the proper direction to be sure things are on the up & up.
Your signature isn’t filled out so I don’t know what test method you use but here’s some info on that Test Kits Compared
You will be hard pressed to find anyone on this forum to advocate only adding 12 ppm of free chlorine every 6 weeks as a sanitation method.

 

[Oly]

If you have the ability, diagnose your pool water by completing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and determine if your water is clean or not. What appears to your eyes to be clear water may in fact be harboring an advancing microbiological population. With the proper tools you don't need to guess and can determine if you are over or under doing it.

 

[Prickly]

The pucks may work for now but your CYA will continue to increase and then you will need higher and higher chlorine levels to get the same result.
As for copper, that will build up as well and you will end up with staining or green hair. The only way to lower the level will be to drain and replace with fresh water, or be stuck adding sequesterants routinely to combat the problem. Draining is the only way to combat hugh CYA levels as well. It is only a matter of time before it becomes problematic.
Once you find out how much chlorine you have and how much you lose per day you can probably just figure out the amount of bleach you need to add (likely every couple days) and it won't require too much effort.