what Chlorine test should i do ? free and combine or free combined total

ok i tested this morning PH 7.8 FC 1.6 i added another 1000ml of chlorine trying to get up to at least 2ppm to 3ppm max......

did my first CYA test when looking down at the black dot i had the tube filled to the rim, last number on tube is 30 so going past this number to rim i assume is around 20 ? bit of guess work i wonder why there is no 20 mark,

anyway even with water to top of rim i could still see black dot, faint but i could see it, is it totally supposed to disappear to get the accurate reading, or is faint what we usually go to or expect to see ?
 
Follow the FC/CYA Levels based on what your CYA level should be from the stabilizer you have added.

When you do the CYA test, try this next time.

Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.

The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....
 
ok will try that way, when i was looking it was very close like directly over it at about 10 inch's so really close and i had to stare and focus to really see it, doing what you suggest i doubt i would see dot, but it don't seem like a real positive test , depending on your eyesight i bet my 13 year old would see the dot when i didnt , so his results would be different to mine, but i guess its all close enough in this pool science stuff, I'm a roofer, guitar player, defiantly no scientist here ! ok so will give it a try, thanks...........
 
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hi, ok just did some testing, PH 8, i am looking for 7.4, i put 1 litre of acid in

TA was 70 looking for 80 to 100 max i didn't add buffer as i think from what i read let each chemical go thru for a few hours before adding anything else, so i just did acid for PH levels for now, correct me if I'm wrong please

FC was 2, i read between 1 to 3 is good so leaving it as 2

CYA i did test holding at waist level ( no sun afternoon ) after adding at different levels i got to the rim again totally full and with a glance i can still see the dot, i put 900 grams of stabilizer into pool all totally dissolved Friday lunchtime, so tested Sunday afternoon so i know there is 900 grams in pool but obviously it needs more

i am assuming PH in morning should be good after the litre of acid i just put in to bring the ph 8 level down, so i plan to backwash in morning then put another 500 grams of stabilizer into sock and test again in a few days, does this sound like good plan ?

i am looking to get CYA to 30
 
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Have you only put in 900grams of CYA? You Pool Math logs say that you have put in 1080grams.
0.9Kg of CYA will give you less than 30ppm of CYA. The test starts at 30 so thats probably why you can still see the dot? Keep practicing and you'll be an expert by Summer.
Love your signature!:LOL:
 
Opps i didnt realize my inputs on my phone would show up on the pc, i just check and now understand i have a log being recorded, i better make sure from now on i input correctly, anyway it was just 900grams, i will put another 500g into pool tomorrow
 
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Good job! Looks like you are getting the hang of it. Like your walking the CYA round the pool approach.

Just a bit confused about what you are aiming for:

i am looking to get CYA to 20

The 900g should have got you to 25, another 500g will get you to just under 40. I guess the 20 was a typo?

Even just another 180g, to complete the 1080g that PoolMath suggested, would do for now, will get you to 30 and should give you a CYA reading on the viewing tube. That would be a nice reference point to have - it's kind of a once in a pool time chance to exactly know how much CYA there is in the water and use that to get a feel for the test. And 30 should be enough for late Sydney winter.
 

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i have a question off the chemicals....i have been running pump a lot more than the usual now for the first week while i get things sorted, but when things settle i am wondering what is a average pump run time,
i have a variable speed pump, my understanding is pump needs to run just long enough to mix chemicals whenever added, if chemicals are in and pool balanced then run pump just long enough to clear pool water
so as a start i am thinking run at night to save power using off peak hours 10pm to 7am , run say 6 hours at eco setting on my pump which is 1900 rpm, i can lower this rpm if needed its all adjustable
i originally thought i needed a minimum of 1 turnover each day, so i installed a water metre so i can see exactly how many litres i turn over at any given speed i set pump at
so i could look at litres per minute at 1900 rpm and work out how many hours it takes to filter 36000 litres to get 1 turnover and start there as a base
or just go for 6 hours and if pool looks clear after a week or so i could stay at 6, or maybe try 5 hours, its all about just looking for clear water isn't it ?
 

As you are adding liquid chlorine every day, once it is well dispersed, you are running the pump to take care of stuff that falls into the pool. So try 6 hours and see how that does. You may find you want it longer whenever stuff is falling in like leaves, etc. Less when nothing is falling in.
 

As you are adding liquid chlorine every day, once it is well dispersed, you are running the pump to take care of stuff that falls into the pool. So try 6 hours and see how that does. You may find you want it longer whenever stuff is falling in like leaves, etc. Less when nothing is falling in.
ok great so i am on the right track......i will add a bit more stabilizer today and test in a few days and check back in with you guys....thank you
 
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First, you need to run the pump long enough to produce enough chlorine (once your ready to fire up your SWG). And then you want to have enough skimming action to get/keep the pool clean. There are no set in stone run times. If you have a good off-peak rate, then it makes sense to use that. And double the run time at half the speed consumes less electricity. You just need to be fast enough to keep the flow in the SWG cell up and to get the bubbles flushed through, and you want enough skimming action.

I don't have off-peak rates, and run my pump during the day. I like to start my morning cycle while I'm at home and awake, and I like to have some overlap with the evening cycle. Like that I can see when things go wrong and react. Part of my morning routine is to have a look at the filter pressure and the cell (clear cell, can nicely see the bubbles being created inside) on my way to get the net to fish leaves, frogs, spiders, etc out.

In winter, I run my pump about four hours, in summer more like ten. When it's windy, I get lots of leaves and dirt, and I run the pump a bit more without the cell running.

Marty's suggestion is a good starting point. Every pool is different, depending on trees, wind, rain, sun,... .
 
need to be fast enough to keep the flow in the SWG cell up and to get the bubbles flushed through
ok i understand i checked with watermaid they say the chlorinator can run as low as 100 lpm, but i would be watching to see as you said to see it running correctly and pool is skimming, i dont have any trees near so dont expect much falling into pool, all good for now i will work on cya and ph and get some testing going in a few days.....thanks
 
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