Hello! I have a new ~5,000 gallon AGP that is just about full to midway up skimmer. The pool installer said to add the shock bag that came with the pool equipment and then take water sample to store Monday. He also said we could swim 2 hrs after putting the shock in, which should be added thru the skimmer. Before I do anything I want to see if this is appropriate and if there is a better way to start out. I actually have the tf-100 test kit recommenced on this site. I have no other chemicals yet and plan to go this morning to buy some. Any guidance someone could give would be helpful for starting out today. I have begun reading the pool school information on the site, but feel a bit overwhelmed and confused on best way to start chemicals. Thanks!
New AGP almost full , starting chemicals
- Thread starter JEN11
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great job on having a quality test kit. So obviously, do not go to the pool store tomorrow. You have all you need.
You need CYA/stabilizer/conditioner (4# container dry from Walmart, Home Depot, etc) and a few gallons of liquid chlorine to start. To know more, we need a set of test results from your pool water. You can skip the CYA test.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry, Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool, What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool
You need CYA/stabilizer/conditioner (4# container dry from Walmart, Home Depot, etc) and a few gallons of liquid chlorine to start. To know more, we need a set of test results from your pool water. You can skip the CYA test.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry, Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool, What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool
Yep, what he said. Test everything but CYA, because tap water has none and you haven't added any. We can tell you what to get to fix it up right. It won't take long --- some stabilizer, some chlorine (possibly from that bag of shock, depending on what it is, read the label and tell us) and possibly something to adjust the pH. Allowing generous spacing, an hour.
Thanks for the responses! The shock I have is 1 lb bag rapid shock chlorinating granules. Says active ingredient calcium hypochlorite 68%, minimal available chlorine 65%
test results
FC 5
CC 1
TA 170
CH 250
pH 8.2 ? very purple
test results
FC 5
CC 1
TA 170
CH 250
pH 8.2 ? very purple
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great!
Add muriatic acid to your shopping list. You can get that at Home Depot/lowes. Look in the garden section or paint section.
Get your supplies. Lower the pH to 7.4 or so (assume 8.2 as the start). Add 30 ppm CYA granules using the sock method. Add liquid chlorine every day to maintain a 5 ppm or more FC level. Do not let the FC level drop below 3 ppm.
Add muriatic acid to your shopping list. You can get that at Home Depot/lowes. Look in the garden section or paint section.
Get your supplies. Lower the pH to 7.4 or so (assume 8.2 as the start). Add 30 ppm CYA granules using the sock method. Add liquid chlorine every day to maintain a 5 ppm or more FC level. Do not let the FC level drop below 3 ppm.
Ok heading to store now to get liquid chlorine, CYA, and muriatic acid.
Any info on here about how much to add of each based on my numbers, order to add the chemicals , spacing between adding chemicals, and where to add them in the pool?
Any info on here about how much to add of each based on my numbers, order to add the chemicals , spacing between adding chemicals, and where to add them in the pool?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
PoolMath
I entered your test data into Poolmath.
To lower pH from 8.2 to 7.4, add 2 cups of 31.45% muriatic acid.
Start dissolving 20 oz of CYA granules using the sock method.
Check your FC tonight and add enough liquid chlorine to have 5 ppm FC in your water.
Be sure to add the liquid chemicals at the return flow into the pool from the pump. Let the pump run at least 30 minutes after adding the chemical.
The CYA in the sock, once it gets mushy (30 minutes or so hanging in the water) squeeze the sock really well every so often and it will dissolve quickly.
I entered your test data into Poolmath.
To lower pH from 8.2 to 7.4, add 2 cups of 31.45% muriatic acid.
Start dissolving 20 oz of CYA granules using the sock method.
Check your FC tonight and add enough liquid chlorine to have 5 ppm FC in your water.
Be sure to add the liquid chemicals at the return flow into the pool from the pump. Let the pump run at least 30 minutes after adding the chemical.
The CYA in the sock, once it gets mushy (30 minutes or so hanging in the water) squeeze the sock really well every so often and it will dissolve quickly.
Quite respectable numbers. Chlorine seems a little high for tap water. CC could come from chloramines they use. Sunlight will get rid of it. Hang onto that bag of powdered shock. It'll keep for years if it's kept sealed. Save it for when you can't find bleach or the car won't start or whatever and you get caught in a bind.
How much chemical to use is up to poolmath. I could spit out a number but it's better if you try it yourself first. I want you to be able to do it yourself. If you just want someone to tell you "add this" any pool store would be delighted to do so. We'll be happy to check your math. How to add chemicals is in Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool
Ok got my supplies and decided to test again since I doubted myself and also I did not use the magnet spinner mix thing the first time. I have plugged in the numbers to pool math too.
new numbers
FC 2
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 190
I did not recheck CH which was 250 before
so I’m getting From the math to add
20oz chlorine, using 10% concentration that I bought
And
13oz of 31.45% muriatic acid with I’m assuming is same as 20 degree baume?
I also read not to add chlorine and muriatic acid at same time. What to do first and when would it be safe to do the next one? Also, I couldn’t find anything saying not to do the 20oz CYA at the same time? Hope that’s ok. Would greatly appreciate someone checking me on what I should add thanks!
new numbers
FC 2
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 190
I did not recheck CH which was 250 before
so I’m getting From the math to add
20oz chlorine, using 10% concentration that I bought
And
13oz of 31.45% muriatic acid with I’m assuming is same as 20 degree baume?
I also read not to add chlorine and muriatic acid at same time. What to do first and when would it be safe to do the next one? Also, I couldn’t find anything saying not to do the 20oz CYA at the same time? Hope that’s ok. Would greatly appreciate someone checking me on what I should add thanks!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sorry I did not catch your post earlier!
Those amounts are fine. You can add the chlorine, wait 15 minutes or so, pump running, then add the acid. CYA can be adding during.
Brush the pool well to mix it around.
Those amounts are fine. You can add the chlorine, wait 15 minutes or so, pump running, then add the acid. CYA can be adding during.
Brush the pool well to mix it around.
I can’t thank y’all enough for the help! Much appreciated , thank you!
I am a bit worried about this muriatic acid, it produced a lot of vapor once opened and I had to walk away when I opened it, feeling like I should be wearing a respirator to handle it. It was fuming! Is that normal? I feel uncomfortable storing it at my home right now
I am a bit worried about this muriatic acid, it produced a lot of vapor once opened and I had to walk away when I opened it, feeling like I should be wearing a respirator to handle it. It was fuming! Is that normal? I feel uncomfortable storing it at my home right now
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
MA can put off some fumes. Try to use it where the wind pushes it away from you.
It should be stored outside. A plastic receptacle like a small trash can with lid or if you have just one gallon a 5 gallon bucket with lid like you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. Do not store in the house or garage.
It should be stored outside. A plastic receptacle like a small trash can with lid or if you have just one gallon a 5 gallon bucket with lid like you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. Do not store in the house or garage.
Muriatic Acid is much like ammonia in its breathtaking abilities. I suspect you will pay close attention to which way the wind is blowing in the future. 
I store mine in the plastic crates I buy it in, out in the shed. It's not temperature sensitive like bleach, but the fumes can attack anything metal nearby, so don't store it near anything that can be damaged by rust, like hedge trimmers or pruning shears. Ask me how I know.
I store mine in the plastic crates I buy it in, out in the shed. It's not temperature sensitive like bleach, but the fumes can attack anything metal nearby, so don't store it near anything that can be damaged by rust, like hedge trimmers or pruning shears. Ask me how I know.
It is nasty stuff! Until I figure out a better arrangement can I store the 2 gallons I have in an old plastic cooler that closes with a lid and keep in tucked away in a corner of my yard no one goes to?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40