Converting to salt, just order Circupool CORE35!

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frankofiore said:
Thanks! How many days prior did you add salt?
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Get a K-1766. Measure your salt level first. I had my pool eight months when I converted mine, and I was already at 800 PPM from using Bleach for that time period plus whatever was in the water to start. You don't want to add too much as all you can do then is a partial drain and refill. If I had been over by 800 PPM I would have had to drain some.

Then put no more than 2/3 of what is needed (that is after the initial salt reading) in the pool. Run the pump as much as possible in the time period. I went a couple of weeks in my process and it turned out right on, but it was fluctuating all over the place for a few days, and I am not the only one who has had this happen. Once that 2/3 is stable go back into pool math and calculate the rest. Stop a little short of it.. like shoot for the middle of the range or less for the Core.. I think it's like 3500 PPM for the Core like the other Circupool models. Then if you want to get it perfect do it slowly after running it for several days.

I'd start a week before, especially if you aren't swimming in the pool yet for the season...

If it seems to read low on the K-1766 after you put in your 2/3 then don't be tempted to try to add additional salt that isn't originally calculated to top it off. Add the rest to get it into range maybe two days before... Then turn it on... As long as you are generating chlorine at that point, you can take your time to optimize it.

I don't think the Core reads out a number like my Universal 40 does, or the RJ+'s do.. but that's no big deal because the electronic readouts are kinda inaccurate anyway. (I believe that is why the newer designs jsut have a "OK" salt light instead.) Use the K-1766 to get it where you need it to.

I used to work in Libertyville, IL, btw and grew up in Elk Grove. I am glad you are finally getting some spring weather there. You'll enjoy the SWCG, it's not 100% maintenance free but if something happens for a couple of days to a week, then you aren't going to have a major issue like a green pool.
 
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Rattus Suffocatus said:
Get a K-1766. Measure your salt level first. I had my pool eight months when I converted mine, and I was already at 800 PPM from using Bleach for that time period plus whatever was in the water to start. You don't want to add too much as all you can do then is a partial drain and refill. If I had been over by 800 PPM I would have had to drain some.

Then put no more than 2/3 of what is needed (that is after the initial salt reading) in the pool. Run the pump as much as possible in the time period. I went a couple of weeks in my process and it turned out right on, but it was fluctuating all over the place for a few days, and I am not the only one who has had this happen. Once that 2/3 is stable go back into pool math and calculate the rest. Stop a little short of it.. like shoot for the middle of the range or less for the Core.. I think it's like 3500 PPM for the Core like the other Circupool models. Then if you want to get it perfect do it slowly after running it for several days.

I'd start a week before, especially if you aren't swimming in the pool yet for the season...

If it seems to read low on the K-1766 after you put in your 2/3 then don't be tempted to try to add additional salt that isn't originally calculated to top it off. Add the rest to get it into range maybe two days before... Then turn it on... As long as you are generating chlorine at that point, you can take your time to optimize it.

I don't think the Core reads out a number like my Universal 40 does, or the RJ+'s do.. but that's no big deal because the electronic readouts are kinda inaccurate anyway. (I believe that is why the newer designs jsut have a "OK" salt light instead.) Use the K-1766 to get it where you need it to.

I used to work in Libertyville, IL, btw and grew up in Elk Grove. I am glad you are finally getting some spring weather there. You'll enjoy the SWCG, it's not 100% maintenance free but if something happens for a couple of days to a week, then you aren't going to have a major issue like a green pool.
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Seconded. Thirded.
My pool had 1800ppm of salt before conversion -- halfway there!
 
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markayash said:
Just in case you haven't seen it avoid clorox salt..I like Morton from Walmart if they are out but Home depot a few choices.
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YES! There is a brand new thread on a yellow pool here because of that!

When I decided to do it there was a run on pool salt here locally... so had to get a bag here and there for several days-- I literally used some of my Diamond Crystal water softener briquettes, Morton, Diamond Crystal and whatever the Lowe's brand was of pool salt, and a couple of bags of the solar crystal Diamond Crystal rock salt type water softener salt. I've run thorough my favorites elsewhere here, but all worked. All around I liked the Morton pool salt the best. The Diamond crystal Solar crystals for the water softener the second. The Diamond Crystal pool salt third. The Lowe's pool salt seemed to dissolve the fastest which might be the best choice if you are in a hurry.

The stuff labeled for the water softener, the Diamond Crystal Solar Crystals tended to be $2 less a bag than the pool salts were.

All worked without adding iron. The Chlorox pool salt is known to be no bueno....
 
Rattus Suffocatus said:
YES! There is a brand new thread on a yellow pool here because of that!

When I decided to do it there was a run on pool salt here locally... so had to get a bag here and there for several days-- I literally used some of my Diamond Crystal water softener briquettes, Morton, Diamond Crystal and whatever the Lowe's brand was of pool salt, and a couple of bags of the solar crystal Diamond Crystal rock salt type water softener salt. I've run thorough my favorites elsewhere here, but all worked. All around I liked the Morton pool salt the best. The Diamond crystal Solar crystals for the water softener the second. The Diamond Crystal pool salt third. The Lowe's pool salt seemed to dissolve the fastest which might be the best choice if you are in a hurry.

The stuff labeled for the water softener, the Diamond Crystal Solar Crystals tended to be $2 less a bag than the pool salts were.

All worked without adding iron. The Chlorox pool salt is known to be no bueno....
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Plus a Walmart buggy can only handle about 4 bags :)
 
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I installed the CORE35 over the weekend. Like many others have mentioned, it took me all of 15 minutes to do. Very easy.... well done Circupool. I also received my K-1766 testing kit and it came out to 600ppm for the initial reading. FC was about 2.8 and CYA was at 40 PPM. The plan is to add salt later this evening. So based upon Pool Math, I need to add 400lbs of salt. Plan on doing half of that tonight then giving it a couple of days to settle. Does that sound about right? Couple of other questions for everyone:

My CYA levels are low for a salt pool according to CYA chart. Do I need to raise those levels to 60-80 ppm now? If so, what would be the best way?
How long do I wait to turn the SWG on?
When should I disconnect the chlorinator?
 
Nice, if you have kids and it's not too cold I have heard thats the best way to mix the salt :) Mine changed after a day or two but you have a range of 3000 to 4500 I believe so shot for around 3200 to 3500 and should be safe..
My Edge was actually running at 2600 for a couple of months then finally complained low salt
 
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Pool Math is showing 2650 or so additional, so ... 3300 ppm... yeah that's about right. 10 bags.. I would do eight, and let sit 48 hours, check again. It depends on how sure you are of your pool's volume at this point. I ended up adding seven bags with a starting of 800 ppm, so in my case my pool turns out to be a little bigger than I measured when I filled--- but it rained fairly heavily that day, and it seems I picked up 1000 gallons of rainwater.. which is possible now that I have all the information.

This is why you want to be careful and undershoot a little in the process. If you are certain about your volume, add 8 bags... let mix for a couple of day,s measure again. The good news is if you shoot for 3200 PPM and you are off 10% you will be at 3500 ppm which is where you want to end up at anyway. I think you have it.
 

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My salt level also danced around quite a bit in the first week or two. Swimming in the pool is actually the most effective way of getting to mix in. IMHO, low salt is better than high as the cell's current draw increases with salinity level. It is more efficient but once you exceed that it's probably more harmful for the electronics than low salt is. My level has been very stable since about a week after installing the cell, so once it's completely mixed, you will know.
 
frankofiore said:
I installed the CORE35 over the weekend. Like many others have mentioned, it took me all of 15 minutes to do. Very easy.... well done Circupool. I also received my K-1766 testing kit and it came out to 600ppm for the initial reading. FC was about 2.8 and CYA was at 40 PPM. The plan is to add salt later this evening. So based upon Pool Math, I need to add 400lbs of salt. Plan on doing half of that tonight then giving it a couple of days to settle. Does that sound about right? Couple of other questions for everyone:

My CYA levels are low for a salt pool according to CYA chart. Do I need to raise those levels to 60-80 ppm now? If so, what would be the best way?
How long do I wait to turn the SWG on?
When should I disconnect the chlorinator?
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You should raise CYA but don't let it stop you from firing things up. I would make sure there are no tablets in the chlorinator..Don't want to risk any tablet Chlorine leaking back into the SWG.
 
Shh.. don't tell anyone, but I only raised my CYA up to 50.. and I don't think I am going to go higher. I'm running it at 30% for 14 hours a day now, and I think I can spare a little extra chlorine! :) "Free form" pools like mine are hard to be sure of volume until you either measure when you fill or do a lot of different pool calc fills. My addition of CYA and salt both made me fairly sure my pool was 14000-15000 rather than the 13000 I measured when I filled it when it was pouring rain out. It's a amazing that I might have added 1000 gallons with rainwater that night, but when I worked it backwards it certainly could be. You are better going too low than too high on the salt-- again.. get it generating, wait a week or two, then tweak to 3300-3600 PPM. Don't exceed this but if you do as long as it's <4000 and the cell is happy don't panic.
 
I added salt on saturday morning, ran my VSP on full blast for about 12 hours and then low gear until I finished the install on Sunday. I have been checking salinity levels now and then -- I added 200 lbs first. The levels were at 2700 this morning. I have read it can take 3-4 days before things normalize. So, I'll wait and see.
 
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I learned a valuable lesson on the 1766
Shaking it aggressively vs mildly after every drop or 2 can change the results. In my case I thought my salt was 4100 but when the low salt light came on I realized my salt was really 2600 and was working until water temp went up to 75 and my low salt light came on..I thought the test strips were off but looking back they were right :)
 
Mark: Man, I don't know how you did that the K-1766 is probably the most consistent test of all that I do as for results. I do stir after every drop but not super violently. I accidentally ended up with two kits, and both give identical results. I know you had problems and I tried to get mine not to work after that and I couldn't do it! :) Oh.. but you know what, I use a chop stick to stir.... maybe that is why I have it be consistent.... That's my ghetto version of the speed stir... :)

DAB: At 2700 PPM you probably will start generating chlorine... Throw one more bag in and turn it on (or just turn it on. Measure again in 24 hours then decide). Wait a week and then add the rest. Wait another week and check again -- top off at this point to 3500 PPM +/- 200.
 
Rattus Suffocatus said:
Mark: Man, I don't know how you did that the K-1766 is probably the most consistent test of all that I do as for results. I do stir after every drop but not super violently. I accidentally ended up with two kits, and both give identical results. I know you had problems and I tried to get mine not to work after that and I couldn't do it! :) Oh.. but you know what, I use a chop stick to stir.... maybe that is why I have it be consistent.... That's my ghetto version of the speed stir... :)

DAB: At 2700 PPM you probably will start generating chlorine... Throw one more bag in and turn it on (or just turn it on. Measure again in 24 hours then decide). Wait a week and then add the rest. Wait another week and check again -- top off at this point to 3500 PPM +/- 200.
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IF I did like this video I got 4100 but stirring I got 2600. Don’t know why but it’s different :) I believed the 4100 until my low salt light came on. First panicked and thought my cell was bad then thought what the heck and added more salt.

 
Try using a rod or a stick of some sort to stir is and see what you get. That's odd. Honestly I've tried it all sorts of ways and it's exactly the same no matter how I do it, and it's within 200 PPM of the readout on the Universal 40... So.. it must be right? If I see cheap strips somewhere I might try those now too. You have me curious. You do know (it's not a secret) that I do keep a second non-Taylor test kit and compare the two against each other periodically to cross check because I don't just trust one kit. I guess I learned this when doing fancy water chemistry when beer brewing. Now I basically use RO and formulas I came up with and don't bother testing for that....

One thing I do find sort of critical is the very first drop. It seems to take a second or two to become cloudy. Maybe you need to wait longer between drops?

And a video with phosphate remover for a background... here? :) It's odd because I thought the strips I would get from DSP would have been salt strips in the accessory kit, but no.. they were phosphate... I maybe should try one.. haven't even opened them up....
 
Rattus Suffocatus said:
Try using a rod or a stick of some sort to stir is and see what you get. That's odd. Honestly I've tried it all sorts of ways and it's exactly the same no matter how I do it, and it's within 200 PPM of the readout on the Universal 40... So.. it must be right? If I see cheap strips somewhere I might try those now too. You have me curious. You do know (it's not a secret) that I do keep a second non-Taylor test kit and compare the two against each other periodically to cross check because I don't just trust one kit. I guess I learned this when doing fancy water chemistry when beer brewing. Now I basically use RO and formulas I came up with and don't bother testing for that....

One thing I do find sort of critical is the very first drop. It seems to take a second or two to become cloudy. Maybe you need to wait longer between drops?

And a video with phosphate remover for a background... here? :) It's odd because I thought the strips I would get from DSP would have been salt strips in the accessory kit, but no.. they were phosphate... I maybe should try one.. haven't even opened them up....
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Test your sliding it like that guy does and see what it reads.
 

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