Heater Options?

Connect the heater between your filter and SWG.

What model heater are you planning to get?
 
I haven’t decided - any recommendations? Just looking for configuration ideas right now. I know it needs to be plumbed after the filter, but there isn’t really room to drop a heater in there the way it sits.
 
How about a bunch of information about the pool you want to heat?

Please create your signature about your pool and equipment. And put a location in your profile.

Gas? Propane? Heat pump?


Pool Heating Calculators

Post wider pics of your equipment area.
 
I would put the heater behind the sand filter, from the perspective of the picture you posted. Piping would come out the front of the sand filter, turn around and go back to the heater, and then come back forward from the heater to the SWG.

As for which one to choose, I bought a Raypak last year which I like a heck of a lot better than the Hayward it replaced.
 
It’s a free form in-ground salt water pool. I don’t have exact specs, but I’m guessing 17k gallon. Sand filter with an intelliflo variable speed pump. I was thinking gas for the heater, but between space constraints and building codes, I’m not sure where it could go. I’d like to keep it all compact.

below are some wider pics as requested.

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Yeah nothing easy about that setup. Only real place to put it is directly in front of the SWG on the actual pathway/concrete. Not in front of the window and not enough room under the deck. Where are you located? You could possibly move it off to the right of the picture where that bush is maybe on the side of the house? In that case you'd need to extend some piping over to it of course. Gas heaters are very location specific because of their exhaust (windows/decks/etc).
 
I would put the heater behind the sand filter, from the perspective of the picture you posted. Piping would come out the front of the sand filter, turn around and go back to the heater, and then come back forward from the heater to the SWG.

As for which one to choose, I bought a Raypak last year which I like a heck of a lot better than the Hayward it replaced.

My hayward is getting old and I haven't been a big fan of it..Does the Raypak heat better?
 
I would put the heater behind the sand filter, from the perspective of the picture you posted. Piping would come out the front of the sand filter, turn around and go back to the heater, and then come back forward from the heater to the SWG.

As for which one to choose, I bought a Raypak last year which I like a heck of a lot better than the Hayward it replaced.
Curious, what did you like about the Raypak better than the Hayward? Looking at specs, the Hayward 140K unit has a COP of 5.7, and the Raypak of the same size is 5.6, so the Hayward is cheaper to run. My pool installer put in the Hayward, and I've had no issues with it - it either heats or it doesn't :), so I'm curious as to what makes the Raypak better from your experience.

Looking at the pics above, I see several issues with regards to placement of a heater. Most city codes won't let you place it in front of the window (there is a minimum distance), so in front of the filter is probably out. Behind the filter looks like the heater would be sitting under a set of wooden stairs... there is a minimum clearance above the heater of 6' (at least that is code here in Florida) - they even made the installer move the heater out 6" from the wall because the eave above was closer then 6', so that location is probably out as well. The only location I see would be to the left of the filter, as viewed from the pic, outside of the stairs- unless I'm missing something here.

If I were in the market for replacing my Hayward HP21404T, I would get the AquaCal HeatWave SuperQuiet SQ225. At 144K BTU's, it's COP is 6.5 - far more efficient than either the Hayward or Raypak, and is 10db quieter when running. A win-win in my book.
 
My Hayward failed after 4 months, control board failed and Hayward said they "might" fix it under warranty if I paid $125 for a service call..I just bought the board.
MIne is 400K and doesn't heat as well as the older one I replaced 7 years ago
 

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I'm fairly certain that is still too close to the window. This is what my installer told me when picking a spot:

"The top of the heater must be at least 5 feet below, or offset 4 feet from, the nearest opening to a building, such as a window or door; in addition, the top of the heater must be at least 3 feet above any forced-air inlets located within 10 feet of the unit."
 
I'm fairly certain that is still too close to the window. This is what my installer told me when picking a spot:

"The top of the heater must be at least 5 feet below, or offset 4 feet from, the nearest opening to a building, such as a window or door; in addition, the top of the heater must be at least 3 feet above any forced-air inlets located within 10 feet of the unit."

This only pertains to a gas heater.
 
My hayward is getting old and I haven't been a big fan of it..Does the Raypak heat better?

It certainly heats better than the Hayward did at the end. ;) More on that below. But in general, yes, since the Hayward was 150k BTUs, and the Raypak is 180k. Would have been 200k, but the CuPro Nickel Heat Exchanger trades off 10% efficiency for better durability.

Curious, what did you like about the Raypak better than the Hayward? Looking at specs, the Hayward 140K unit has a COP of 5.7, and the Raypak of the same size is 5.6, so the Hayward is cheaper to run. My pool installer put in the Hayward, and I've had no issues with it - it either heats or it doesn't :), so I'm curious as to what makes the Raypak better from your experience.

My Hayward H150 Milivolt required service a couple of times every year. Occasionally I was able to do it--cleaning, replacing thermocouple, replacing gas valve, etc. But other times the pressure or temperature switches failed and needed to be replaced, we had a tech out for that. The pilot would blow out a few times a year, and it was kind of a pain to make sure it stayed lit. Then last year it melted all the fins off the heat exchanger and stopped heating entirely.

So when we went to the Raypak, I got the digital instead of the millivolt. Eliminates the standing pilot and thermocouple (which should make up for the efficiency right there), gives precise control of temperature along with a temperature readout. Very happy so far, even though it's only been a year.

If I were in the market for replacing my Hayward HP21404T, I would get the AquaCal HeatWave SuperQuiet SQ225. At 144K BTU's, it's COP is 6.5 - far more efficient than either the Hayward or Raypak, and is 10db quieter when running. A win-win in my book.

Oh, now I see you're talking about Heat Pumps, not heaters. I have no opinions in that space, never having used one.
 
This was for my heat pump in Florida. The inspector in Marion County made them move the heater about 6" because it was too close to a window and barely under the eave of the home.

Interesting I have never heard of a NEC or local code for Heat Pump placement. Usually the only rules are adequate access to the HP controls (30" or so). Many inspectors do not know the law and make it up as they go but perhaps FL does have some local rules.
 
Raypak HP manual ( https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=A6A43ED9-CCB9-4449-B4AF-AF6111D27828 ) says:

This unit features an ‘up-flow’ discharge for quiet operation. Air is pulled up through the evaporator coil and discharged through the top grille. Allow at least 5 ft (1.5 m) clearance above the unit for unrestricted air discharge. DO NOT install the unit under a porch or deck. Refer to Fig. 1. Recirculation of cold discharge air back into the evaporator coil will greatly reduce the unit’s heating capacity and efficiency.

It is important to keep the area next to the heat pump pool heater clear of shrubs, bushes and chemicals containers. They could prevent air from circulating fully through the heat pump pool heater, and will affect the operation of the heat pump pool heater or damage the heat pump pool heater.


 
Raypak HP manual ( https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=A6A43ED9-CCB9-4449-B4AF-AF6111D27828 ) says:

This unit features an ‘up-flow’ discharge for quiet operation. Air is pulled up through the evaporator coil and discharged through the top grille. Allow at least 5 ft (1.5 m) clearance above the unit for unrestricted air discharge. DO NOT install the unit under a porch or deck. Refer to Fig. 1. Recirculation of cold discharge air back into the evaporator coil will greatly reduce the unit’s heating capacity and efficiency.

It is important to keep the area next to the heat pump pool heater clear of shrubs, bushes and chemicals containers. They could prevent air from circulating fully through the heat pump pool heater, and will affect the operation of the heat pump pool heater or damage the heat pump pool heater.



All HP makers have similar instructions They have to do with proper operation and longevity of the HP. Have you heard of any building codes for HP placement?
 
Have you heard of any building codes for HP placement?

No. But I have not needed to install a HP yet. We hear about code inspectors with various interpretations between what is required code and what is best practices. If you want to engage the inspector then ask him to cite a reference.
 

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