At what point does it become more cost/ time efficient to drain vs clean?

[Texas_tater316]

West Texas. Our pool is 20ft by 40ft by 9ft at the deep end. We bought our house in September of 2019. The original owner let it not long after he put it up for sale. When we moved in there were frogs and snakes living in it. It's been sitting mostly untouched for at least 7 months. I've shocked it a couple of times and got it to a point where you can see the bottom on the shallow end, but it's still got a white/green haze to it. The deep end is is visible to about 4ft, and green. I've tried to use a leaf vacuum, which works great, but it pulls up white almost sandy looking material as well. I don't know where to go from here.

Does the SLAM method work for something like this?
Would it be easier to scrub the walls with it drained?
Is the chance of hydrostatic pressure causing a cave in greater since it's a deep pool?

 

[Jimrahbe]

316,

In my tiny mind, I think anytime that water is cheaper than the amount of chlorine it will take to SLAM the pool, it makes much more sense to drain and refill.

In my case, I can fill my 17K pool for about $50 bucks, so it would be a simple decision for me...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Blacker and nastier pools have been slammed. My main concern would be ammonia build up which forces the use of large amounts of liquid chlorine to neutralize.

You can certainly drain most of it (as long as you mitigate any risk of floating the pool) but you will still have to SLAM the pool no matter what.

 

[Texas Splash]

I was just in your area for work (Goodfellow). Not sure about your soil and water table, but make sure it hasn't risen too much from recent rains if you do drain. Keep in mind the [SLAM][/SLAM] works well under a few caveats:
1. You are using a TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit to test frequently and accurately.
2. You maintain the proper FC (SLAM) level based on your current CYA until all 3 SLAM criteria are complete. See FC/CYA Levels
3. You are consistent with the brushing, sweeping, and entertainment of the required SLAM FC level.
4. Be realistic. SLAMming a green pool can take several days, perhaps a week or more depending on everything above. But it works.

It's not uncommon this time of year to see lots of green pools, and like you, many others have inherited a swamp. The choice is yours how to proceed. Let us know if you have any other questions. Nice to have you with us. Oh, and don't forget to update your signature!

 

[Leebo]

I end up Slamming the pool yearly at opening and IMHO that’s a “chip shot” to clear. Personally, I’d avoid the risk and Slam it. That said, can you share test results so we can help you make an informed decision?

 

[wireform]

The chunk of change on chlorine is what it is and we don't know if 100 gallons or 150 but that's where the unknown chunk of change ends with chlorine. A drain and refill can be less then the outlay of chlorine but the unknown risks are there. The chunk of change a popped shell can cost is anyone's guess but I'll tell you it usually ends with I should've would've the chlorine thing.
Slam and keep with it till the end. Don't drain and fill.

 

[Texas_tater316]

I end up Slamming the pool yearly at opening and IMHO that’s a “chip shot” to clear. Personally, I’d avoid the risk and Slam it. That said, can you share test results so we can help you make an informed decision?

I had it tested at Leslie's a few days ago. I don't have the results right off hand, but I remember the cya being at 5 ppm, TC 0ppm, total dissolved solids were 4400ppm, in not sure of the number, but the CH was in range as well as the ph.
I agree about the risk, as much rain as we have had lately, it's probably not the best decision.
Before I slam does my cya need to be a min. of 30ppm? From what I've read if your cya isn't right, it's just wasting chlorine?

 

[ajw22]

You cannot follow the SLAM Process without the correct test kit. We recommend either the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. You need to do your own testing with a recommended test kit to follow TFPC methods. See Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

Once you get your test kit then post your test results and we can give you the best advice.

 

[Texas Splash]

Before I slam does my cya need to be a min. of 30ppm?

Normally yes. But BEFORE you think of starting, make sure to have your TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) at home. You must have one of those. Then increase the FC (only) to "10" at first. NO stabilizer (CYA) yet. Test FC again in 10 minutes to see if it held between 5-10. If not, hit it again with regular bleach and repeat every 10 min. Once the FC shows it's holding for 10 minutes, THEN you can add stabilizer for a CYA goal of 30 and then increase the FC to 12. Once you get your kit, double-check your tests results since often time pool store test are off. Post back. We'll coach you through the SLAM.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Before you SLAM, go to the pet store and pickup a simple ammonia test kit from the aquarium section, they’re about $8. If the CYA is that low, it could have been consumed by bacteria and you may have ammonia in the water. If you have ammonia you ABSOLUTELY SHOULD NOT ADD anymore CYA. If the ammonia levels are high, you will tear through liquid chlorine like crazy. The presence and level of ammonia will decide if a partial drain is needed.

You need your own test kit, that is Step #1 no matter what. Pool store testing is useless.

 

[Texas_tater316]

Checked for ammonia, none present.
Got the recommended test kit Taylor K-2006C.
Got 10 gallons of 10% bleach

FC .2ppm
TC .8ppm
This is after adding power powder granules 6lbs total, also before I joined TFP.
Is it normal to have to add more than 2 "dippers" to get it turned pink?

 

[mknauss]

Use a 10 ml water sample for the FAS-DPD test. Each drop to clear is 0.5ppm FC.

List a complete set of test results.