Hey everybody

[ToddInGA]

Relative pool newbie here. Relocated to southern GA from southwest OH a year and a half ago and bought our home just under a year ago. House has a gunite with plaster lap pool/spillover spa combo. We upgraded with EasyTouch pool controller, salt water generator, variable speed pump, new filter with zeolite media, and Quattro Pro automatic vacuum.

I'm still getting used to all of the chemical balancing, so I'm looking to learn a lot. With a salt water concrete pool, it seems like the most important levels are salt, pH, TA, and CH. Is that correct? We also installed a water softener in our house when we bought it and have found out that the autofill in the pool is connected to soft water, which surprised me, so I'll be adding more calcium, I'm sure.

Future improvement plans: add a heat pump for "general" pool heating and use the gas-fired to heat up the spa, refinish the 19 year old marcite with PebbleTec, and get a LoopLoc cover instead of my Harbor Freight mesh tarps and cement blocks (lol). Also paint the pool deck this year - it's all stained and rusted up, but now that I've got the sprinklers reset so they shouldn't be spraying hard water all over the deck, it shouldn't rust-stain up as much.

Anyway, looking to learn a lot and enjoy our pool even more this year.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Relative pool newbie here. Relocated to southern GA from southwest OH a year and a half ago and bought our home just under a year ago. House has a gunite with plaster lap pool/spillover spa combo. We upgraded with EasyTouch pool controller, salt water generator, variable speed pump, new filter with zeolite media, and Quattro Pro automatic vacuum.

Please create your signature with the details of your pool equipment so we can help you with more specific advice.

Watch out for the Zeolite clogging quicker and requiring more frequent backwashing then DE. Note your clean filter pressure and backwash when filter pressure rises by around 25%.

With a salt water concrete pool, it seems like the most important levels are salt, pH, TA, and CH. Is that correct?

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool

Your most important level is your FC and CYA and your FC/CYA ratio following the FC/CYA Levels.

If you have not already you should download the PoolMath app which we use to calculate chemical dosages and track tests.

We also installed a water softener in our house when we bought it and have found out that the autofill in the pool is connected to soft water, which surprised me, so I'll be adding more calcium, I'm sure.

Test the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water. You don't want your CH climbing due to evaporation during the summer and adding fill water. Your autofill using softened water is likely the right thing for your area.

What test kit do you have?

Future improvement plans: add a heat pump for "general" pool heating and use the gas-fired to heat up the spa, refinish the 19 year old marcite with PebbleTec, and get a LoopLoc cover instead of my Harbor Freight mesh tarps and cement blocks (lol). Also paint the pool deck this year - it's all stained and rusted up, but now that I've got the sprinklers reset so they shouldn't be spraying hard water all over the deck, it shouldn't rust-stain up as much.

Look into how your ET would handle both a HP and a gas heater.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP!

 

[ToddInGA]

Welcome to TFP.



Please create your signature with the details of your pool equipment so we can help you with more specific advice.

Watch out for the Zeolite clogging quicker and requiring more frequent backwashing then DE. Note your clean filter pressure and backwash when filter pressure rises by around 25%.



I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool

Your most important level is your FC and CYA and your FC/CYA ratio following the FC/CYA Levels.

If you have not already you should download the PoolMath app which we use to calculate chemical dosages and track tests.



Test the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water. You don't want your CH climbing due to evaporation during the summer and adding fill water. Your autofill using softened water is likely the right thing for your area.

What test kit do you have?



Look into how your ET would handle both a HP and a gas heater.

Thanks for the reply. I have a Taylor test kit, don’t remember which one offhand. It tests all levels you mentioned (& I have been monitoring).

talked to my pool store when they were out the other day to replace a sensor. He has installed multiple heat pumps with gas boiler and says the ET handles it very easily.

 

[ToddInGA]

Forgot to add - can the target ranges be changed in Pool Math? They don’t match what is in the desired chemical range article. That doesn’t seem right.

 

[Texas Splash]

can the target ranges be changed in Pool Math? They don’t match what is in the desired chemical range article.

We'd have to see what you mean exactly. In Poolmath, you first have to ensure you update your profile and pool info so that it correctly matches-up with the proper chemicals levels designed for that pool type and equipment. I wonder if that's why you are seeing a difference?