We have a mix of elm and live oak. The elms drop their leaves this time of year and the live oaks drop them in the spring. Outside of those times I think it will be tolerable.

My garage is always full of leaves when the elms drop and the closest tree is probably 25 feet or more away. I don't think cutting them down is going to make a meaningful difference.
 
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I took down 14 oaks in the general pool area so nothing falls directly into the pool. I watch my other leaves Float 100ft or more from other trees and still make it into the pool.
 
Awesome! Is this for the entire build? Do you have a comparable PB quote and total price you can share with us?

Yes, everything. I don't have an apples to apples comparison because my pool is 25% bigger than theirs, and I added a patio extension, Hydrazzo instead of pebble, etc. Basically whatever your budget is, you'll find a way to spend.

I will say I was able to undercut the most expensive bid by a little bit, but I have a bigger/better pool. I'm actually higher than the least expensive bids, but again they were smaller pools and I didn't have a lot of confidence in them to stay on budget and deliver a good product.
 
Chances are chlorine will fade it over time once you get water in and the FC level up.
 

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I read somewhere you can rub a puck on it and it will come off. Will try that if it's still there when I eventually get in.

Spent the morning setting up the skimmers since apparently that's the pool builders job around here, or something ... fun! All done now and about half-way full.
 
We have a mix of elm and live oak. The elms drop their leaves this time of year and the live oaks drop them in the spring. Outside of those times I think it will be tolerable.

My garage is always full of leaves when the elms drop and the closest tree is probably 25 feet or more away. I don't think cutting them down is going to make a meaningful difference.
If you plan on buying a robot, it will take care of the leaves. I have a Doheny's Discovery powered by Dolphin and it gets acorns and the oak leaves which as you know are large and thick so they don't crumple easy. You pool is beautiful. Enjoy it!
 
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Hmmm ... I took the measurements, used the pool calculator and it said to lower my TA I needed to lower my pH to 7.2 and to do that I need 58oz of 31% acid.

So I did that and re-tested ... nothing changed. Maybe I didn't wait long enough? I don't want to overshoot it so I guess I'll wait.
 
Hmmm ... I took the measurements, used the pool calculator and it said to lower my TA I needed to lower my pH to 7.2 and to do that I need 58oz of 31% acid.

So I did that and re-tested ... nothing changed. Maybe I didn't wait long enough? I don't want to overshoot it so I guess I'll wait.

What plaster startup guide are you following?


The CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water
 
I'm using the one on the manufacturers website: http://clindustries.com/MSDS/Start_Up_Procedure.pdf

These are the 2 relevant steps from the Day 1 instructions:

Step 2. High total alkalinity should be lowered to 80 ppm (mg/l) using pre-diluted Muriatic Acid (31-33% Hydrochloric acid). Always pre-dilute the acid by adding it to a 5 gallon (19 L) bucket of pool water2.

Step 3. High pH should be reduced to 7.2 if the alkalinity is already 80-100 ppm (mg/l) using pre-diluted Muriatic Acid (31-33% hydrochloric).

I'll be re-testing here in a little while.
 

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