New Build In Process: Spigot Water Results

[Prosperjl]

I’m in process of a new build. We just had Gunite sprayed last week, and they are working on plumbing/equipment next. I received the TF100 and tested my spigot water. Let me know if I need to focus in on any of these numbers for when it’s time to fill. This was my first time testing, and wasn’t sure if I should take record at the slightest bit of color change or a more pronounced color change, hence the number range with the chlorine:

FC: 2.0-2.5
CC: 1.0-2.0
CH: 200
TA: 130
PH: 8.2
CYA: 0

Link to build:

Here is Another DFW Build

We are currently pending permits for our new build. PB has been great to work with. Specs are below in signature. Depth starts at 3.5’, move to 5’, and back to 4’. I have seen several comments on TFP that 3.5’ is a bit too shallow. I inquired about the tweak with my PB, and he said it would...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

Nothing really out of the norm on your test results except that I believe your TA result is flawed somehow. Your TA should be in tenths since each drop until Barbie pink is 10 ppm. So your TA would be 120, 130, 1340, etc. You might want to double check that one. And we know new water has no CYA, but overall no big surprises. You have fairly hard water, so once the pool is full, run a full set of results and bounce them on the PoolMath tool to see what your CSI level is. That will help to determine how to adjust the pH and TA accordingly based on the final CH and water temp. We'll help you with that more when the time comes. Good job practicing now though.

 

[BowserB]

Your tap water is 2 ppm Chlorine? Holy cow! Hey experts here, is that common? My tap water is -0-. I can believe the CH. That's why we have water softeners installed. And the pH is about what mine is. Are you sure you're using that thing right? (from Ghostbusters!)

 

[Shirker]

Your tap water is 2 ppm Chlorine? Holy cow! Hey experts here, is that common? My tap water is -0-

When I used to live "in the city" our tap water was usually somewhere between 0.5 and 1.5 if I recall correctly.

 

[duraleigh]

Your tap water is 2 ppm Chlorine? Holy cow! Hey experts here, is that common?

perfectly common.

 

[Prosperjl]

Nothing really out of the norm on your test results except that I believe your TA result is flawed somehow. Your TA should be in tenths since each drop until Barbie pink is 10 ppm. So your TA would be 120, 130, 1340, etc. You might want to double check that one. And we know new water has no CYA, but overall no big surprises. You have fairly hard water, so once the pool is full, run a full set of results and bounce them on the PoolMath tool to see what your CSI level is. That will help to determine how to adjust the pH and TA accordingly based on the final CH and water temp. We'll help you with that more when the time comes. Good job practicing now though.

Thanks, I’ll run the TA again and report back!

 

[Prosperjl]

Your tap water is 2 ppm Chlorine? Holy cow! Hey experts here, is that common? My tap water is -0-. I can believe the CH. That's why we have water softeners installed. And the pH is about what mine is. Are you sure you're using that thing right? (from Ghostbusters!)

Who knows...lol! In all seriousness, I think the chlorine is right. I ran the simplified TC test as well with the taylor1000. The color was somewhere between 3-5 PPM.

 

[wireform]

If FC was common why such a spread with the CC.

 

[ajw22]

If FC was common why such a spread with the CC.

Chloramines that appear as CCs are added to municipal water in some areas.

Chloramines in Drinking Water | US EPA

Chloramines are disinfectants used to treat drinking water. Chloramines are most commonly formed when ammonia is added to chlorine to treat drinking water. Chloramines provide longer-lasting disinfection as the water moves through pipes to consumers.

www.epa.gov

Chloramines (also known as secondary disinfection) are disinfectants used to treat drinking water and they:

• Are most commonly formed when ammonia is added to chlorine to treat drinking water.
• Provide longer-lasting disinfection as the as the water moves through pipes to consumers.

Chloramines have been used by water utilities since the 1930s. More than one in five Americans uses drinking water treated with chloramines.

 

[duraleigh]

Prosper,

The color you are looking for in ALL the drops based test is, " when there is no further color change". The exact color or hue is nor particularly important as is you continue to add drops until the last drop you add makes no further color change. Subtract that last drop and that is the end result of the test.

Your water is fine. When the pool is full, let the pump run enough to circulate thoroughly and then do the tests again. Plan on adding enough muriatic acid to get your pH down around 7.5 or so and you should be all set.

 

[Prosperjl]

Nothing really out of the norm on your test results except that I believe your TA result is flawed somehow. Your TA should be in tenths since each drop until Barbie pink is 10 ppm. So your TA would be 120, 130, 1340, etc. You might want to double check that one. And we know new water has no CYA, but overall no big surprises. You have fairly hard water, so once the pool is full, run a full set of results and bounce them on the PoolMath tool to see what your CSI level is. That will help to determine how to adjust the pH and TA accordingly based on the final CH and water temp. We'll help you with that more when the time comes. Good job practicing now though.

I ran the TA test again...I had multipled by 11 instead of 10. The green shifted to a very very light hue of red on drop 12 and was a much more pronounced shade on drop 13. It’s either 120 or 130.

 

[Prosperjl]

Prosper,

The color you are looking for in ALL the drops based test is, " when there is no further color change". The exact color or hue is nor particularly important as is you continue to add drops until the last drop you add makes no further color change. Subtract that last drop and that is the end result of the test.

Your water is fine. When the pool is full, let the pump run enough to circulate thoroughly and then do the tests again. Plan on adding enough muriatic acid to get your pH down around 7.5 or so and you should be all set.

Thanks, this is helpful!

 

[Texas Splash]

The green shifted to a very very light hue of red on drop 12 and was a much more pronounced shade on drop 13. It’s either 120 or 130.

Sounds like 130. That final bright, Barbie pink with no more color change is what you're looking for,

 

[duraleigh]

Emphasizing again, the hue or intensity of the color is not important. What's important is that you keep adding drops until there is no further color change....regardless of what that color might be.

There are some circumstances when the TA test can go from blue to yellow and the result is perfectly valid.....provided you added drops until the last one made no change whatsoever and then subtracted that drop.

 

[Prosperjl]

Emphasizing again, the hue or intensity of the color is not important. What's important is that you keep adding drops until there is no further color change....regardless of what that color might be.

There are some circumstances when the TA test can go from blue to yellow and the result is perfectly valid.....provided you added drops until the last one made no change whatsoever and then subtracted that drop.

Great, thanks for the clarification. I got it now.