First test results TF-100

[ajw22]

Here’s a pic of the sample I took today. I do believe the meter that was used as we use it and calibrate it regularly, as we measure boiler water chemistry with it all the time. And our boiler water has to be as pure and as clean as possible to make sure we send high quality steam to our steam turbines. I’m going to add some more acid ASAP.

That has the purple look of high FC.

FALSE READINGS: high levels of chlorine (usually > 10 ppm) will quickly and completely convert phenol red into another pH indicator (chlorphenol red). This new indicator is a dark purple when the water's pH is above 6.6. Unfortunately, some pool operators mistake the purple color for dark red and think the pool water is very alkaline and wrongly add acid to the pool.

When a sanitizer level is not extreme, only some of the phenol red may convert to chlorphenol red. However, purple + orange (for example, pH 7.4) = red. This error is more subtle as no purple color is observed and the operator does not suspect that a false high pH reading has been produced. Some operators neutralize the sanitizer first by adding a drop of chlorine neutralizer (i.e. sodium thiosulfate). However, thiosulfate solutions have a high pH and, if heavily used, may cause a false higher sample pH.

 

[Hardin083]

I’ll update tomorrow morning when I get home from work. I’m hoping that running the SWG at the reduced rate all day will allow my CL2 to drop below the 10ppm mark so I can make get a more accurate PH reading.

 

[ajw22]

Be patient. High pH causing high CSI is good for the first 30 days of plaster curing.

How long has water been in the pool?

 

[Hardin083]

Be patient. High pH causing high CSI is good for the first 30 days of plaster curing.

How long has water been in the pool?

The pool was filled exactly 1 week ago today.

 

[ajw22]

Were you given a startup guide by the builder?

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Hardin083]

Were you given a startup guide by the builder?

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I’ve been reading those a lot while figure all the chemistry out. And they have not given me a startup guide as of yet. They pretty much said they are taking care of the chemistry until pool school. I will be having a long meeting with their startup specialists tomorrow and getting details of what chemistry balance they like to use and why.

 

[duraleigh]

I don't understand the "CL2" abbreviation.

 

[ajw22]

I don't understand the "CL2" abbreviation.

Cl2 is the formula of one molecule of chlorine gas. The chemical symbol of chlorineis only Cl.

 

[Hardin083]

I was referring to chlorine. But I think CL2 refe

Cl2 is the formula of one molecule of chlorine gas. The chemical symbol of chlorineis only Cl.

Yes that is correct I should have put only CL instead of CL2.

 

[Hardin083]

So pool school was completed today and the pool is officially turned over to me for chemical balance etc.... the pool tech was very informative and also took notice of the TF100 test kit. He knew exactly where I got it from and said he wasn’t worried at all about the pool being taken care of lol. Kudos to you guys!

So after playing with all the pool and spa configurations I took some readings and the FC has finally came down into a lower range. Now that the FC is down I still have the high PH readings which are hard to read. I’m still seeing it higher than the test kit allows me to read. I’m guessing around 8.6 range and also used a PH meter from work which read 8.6. I dosed the pool with 2 .5 cups of Muriatic acid and didn’t see much change from that. But I had to leave for work shortly after and will test again tomorrow morning. I’m planning to add another 2.5 cups tomorrow if needed and see what I read after that. I want to get it down but also have taken notice after your help that the elevated PH does help keep my CSI looking good. Granted right now it’s a little high but I’m working on it.

I currently have the SWG at 40% and have my VS pump set to run for 12 hours at a couple different speeds. Going to run 3000 rpm for 2 hours, 1800 rpms for 8 hours, and 3000 for the last 2 hours. I’m thinking the last 2 hours may not be necessary but I will have to figure out what works for the pool.

Below are the readings from today.

 

[ajw22]

I’m still seeing it higher than the test kit allows me to read. I’m guessing around 8.6 range and also used a PH meter from work which read 8.6. I dosed the pool with 2 .5 cups of Muriatic acid and didn’t see much change from that. But I had to leave for work shortly after and will test again tomorrow morning. I’m planning to add another 2.5 cups tomorrow if needed and see what I read after that.

When your pH is above 8 out 8 in PoolMath with a target of 7.6 to calculate a dose. Lower pH in small increments when you have to lower pH a lot. Circulate the water for 30 minuets and retest and repeat until you get to the desired pH.

20 oz of 31.45% MA will lower your pH by 0.4 and TA by 6.5.

I would look to keep your pH between 8.2-8.4 based on your pH meter for the first 30 days to keep your CSI between 0.2-0.5.