Raypak RP2100 shuts off

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mrsfluff

mrsfluff

Well-known member
May 7, 2015
108
jackson nj
Hello TFP members!

My Raypak RP2100 pool heater shuts off after short periods. It ignites just fine. The igniter is fairly new, I replaced it myself a few years back. I had the heater running once this season prior to now and it ran like magic for 24 hours. Nothing (such as valves etc) has been altered since. The water is flowing fine, the returns are doing their thing, warm water is coming out of the returns when the heater is on, the filter pressure is normal, the pump basket is clean, and I backwashed about a week or so ago.

What I noticed yesterday when I started it up again (after initially having this problem the day prior) is that while it was running for the short time I had it going, the thermostat reading was climbing a degree a minute. Once it got up 5 or so degrees, I shut it off. I didn't notice that happening prior.

Thus far, I'm guessing it's the control board but I do not want to buy one for nothing. They aren't cheap. I just can't figure out anything else it could be.

Thank you much!
 
Hi Allen,

The only thing that shows on the diagnostic panel is SPK (spark) after it shuts off and is looking to re-ignite. But that's a normal thing to see when the heater shuts off unexpectedly. But then it doesn't re-ignite unless I shut it off and start it again. Then it sparks and off to the races...for a short period that varies.

I still have the original manual. It's odd that the one thing I do not see addressed in it is the problem I'm experiencing. I've perused some message boards. I found a couple with same/similar issue. But the cause isn't always the same. If I can narrow it down to the control board, super. I'll buy a new one. But they are pricey. So I want to try to be as sure as I can be.

Thanks much!

Teresa
 
Pool Clown said:
Remove the temp sensor and inspect for splitting or a hole from erosion.
Click to expand...
Hi Pool Clown...I'm scouring the parts list, I see the part (6-C) "Temperature Sensor IID Units" is on the exploded parts diagram "FOR UNITS WITH ASME METAL HEADERS". Question, is that mine? I know nothing about this, so I'm trying my best to navigate. I called Raypak and they refuse to help end users. They only deal with businesses. Nice. Could my temp sensor be part of the PC Board/Control? It looks to me like there are 2 panel types, one with the control board and one with a thermostat control (4-C & 5-C). And then there is the temp sensor as previously stated (6-C). All 3 of these are found under "Controls". ajw22 posted a link to the diagram. Would you be so kind as to take a look? My catalog is #6000.52-AI Effective date 12-01-03. Covers models 185B, 405B, 185BL, 405BL. Thanks much!
 
ajw22 said:
Manual is here --> https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf

Troubleshooting begins on page 43.

Anything displayed on the diagnostic pan
ajw22 said:
Manual is here --> https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf

Troubleshooting begins on page 43.

Anything displayed on the diagnostic panel?

View attachment 108769
Click to expand...
Hi Allen...I replied to PoolClown but haven't heard back. The other individual didn't respond at all. Is it possible they haven't seen the messages? I'm not in a rush but want to get this squared away. Thanks much! Teresa
Click to expand...
 
Your heater should have an LCD display. Check to see if the displayed water temp begins to rise faster than normal while the heater is running. Typically you should only get 1 to 2 degrees display rise per min (pool) or 1 to 2 degrees per min in spa mode. Fast displayed temp rise indicates a failed temp sensor, or a heater plumbed backwards.
 
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Pool Clown said:
Your heater should have an LCD display. Check to see if the displayed water temp begins to rise faster than normal while the heater is running. Typically you should only get 1 to 2 degrees display rise per min (pool) or 1 to 2 degrees per min in spa mode. Fast displayed temp rise indicates a failed temp sensor, or a heater plumbed backwards.
Click to expand...
Hi there. It does have an LCD display. The only thing I initially saw was "SPK" because the temp wasn't registering, I assume, and the unit shut off. It starts right up (sparks), but only lasts a short time. What I then noticed, because I tried to run it again the next day, was that the temp was rising a degree a minute. The temp was already around 86 or so, and all it generally does is rise to catch up to the actual temp if it's not already there, but this time it kept going until it got to 92 and I shut it off. The *TEMP SENSOR* appears to be the culprit. And I'm pretty sure that is why it is shutting off. But I need to know if I should be replacing the PC board as in is that the entirety of controls for my unit? I don't have a separate temp sensor, at least that's what I see when I look at the manual. There is a model with a separate temp sensor, but that one is not mine far as I can tell. This is what I am trying to confirm. Thanks!
 
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Hi all...if no one here can help - and I appreciate the help I've already received - maybe I should start another thread? What do others typically do? Like I said, I don't want to buy a new PC Control Board if that is not what I need. Raypak is useless, they don't talk to home owners. We just spend the money. Thanks much! Teresa
 

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What is not working with the thermostat? The panel should have up and a down arrow buttons. Push either one once, and the display should read what your thermostat is set to. After about 10 seconds, it should revert back to the inlet water temp. One thing that does happen when the touch pad begins to fail is that it will change the set temp on its own. Check to see what it is set to. If you cant get any response from the touch pad buttons, maybe it has failed.
 
Pool Clown said:
What is not working with the thermostat? The panel should have up and a down arrow buttons. Push either one once, and the display should read what your thermostat is set to. After about 10 seconds, it should revert back to the inlet water temp. One thing that does happen when the touch pad begins to fail is that it will change the set temp on its own. Check to see what it is set to. If you cant get any response from the touch pad buttons, maybe it has failed.
Click to expand...
Hi there...maybe I used the wrong terminology. The thermostat might well be working. There are up/down arrows and yes, it reads what I set it to. Sorry! My bad... It doesn't revert back to the inlet temp on mine. It stays at whatever temp you set it to. The other number to the left of that is the water temp which generally reads 2 degrees over the actual water temp. I know because I check the floating themometer regularly. Ok so, the set temp doesn't change. Wherever I set it, it stays. The actual water temp reading was the one that went wonky on me a few weeks ago (kept going up a degree a minute). But it varies. Today, in anticipation of responding to you, I turned on the heater to see what would happen. Usually it runs for a bit - sometimes a minute or more and other times longer. Today it ran less than an hour and that was a lot. I set it on 92 then 90 then 88 then 86 (and back up to 90 where I left it) just to see what would happen. The actual temp was 84 when I started (actually it said 82 but then bumped up to register the actual temp as the water went thru.) I stood there for about 10 minutes. All was going as it should. I came back out every so often and the next time I did, it was at 85/86 toggling back and forth because it was just reaching 86. Ok. Super. Then I came out again and it was at a steady 86. Great! Then when I came out the thrid time, I saw SPK on the panel. Hence it shut off and tried to restart but couldn't. I know it's not the igniter. I'm 99.9% sure. It's fairly new, too. I put it in myself in 2016. It lights right up. But there is something going on with the temp sensor, I surmise, bc that'll shut it right down. IF it is that, my question is where is my temp sensor? According to the manual, it appears that mine is part of the PC Control Board. On the other model, it is separate and apart from that. I wrote about this above. This is where I am stuck.
 
Yes, you are right about the set temp display and the inlet temp display both always displaying. Check all your ground connections. Especially the pilot, and the pilot bracket. There needs to be good connection between the bracket and the cabinet/frame. Some units had a ground wire connected to the bracket screw. Intermittent problems aren't easy to diagnose from the armchair. Your temp sensor would be giving you erratic displays (way over temp) if it were failing. All units have a temp sensor not mounted on the board, but they all have a wire that runs from the sensor at the header, back to the board via a wire. You may want to try disconnecting the touch pad from the board. Remember to turn up the thermostat to your set point, turn on the heater, then shut the pump off and unplug the pad. As you are looking at the board, there is a ribbon cable that appears from behind the bottom of the board, and plugs into the board. Run it without the touch pad connected to see if it will run to set point. Remember, the touch pad wont work while you have it disconnected.
 
Pool Clown said:
Yes, you are right about the set temp display and the inlet temp display both always displaying. Check all your ground connections. Especially the pilot, and the pilot bracket. There needs to be good connection between the bracket and the cabinet/frame. Some units had a ground wire connected to the bracket screw. Intermittent problems aren't easy to diagnose from the armchair. Your temp sensor would be giving you erratic displays (way over temp) if it were failing. All units have a temp sensor not mounted on the board, but they all have a wire that runs from the sensor at the header, back to the board via a wire. You may want to try disconnecting the touch pad from the board. Remember to turn up the thermostat to your set point, turn on the heater, then shut the pump off and unplug the pad. As you are looking at the board, there is a ribbon cable that appears from behind the bottom of the board, and plugs into the board. Run it without the touch pad connected to see if it will run to set point. Remember, the touch pad wont work while you have it disconnected.
Click to expand...
I hear ya on the armchair. I know it's not easy to diagnose from the chair and believe me, I'm grateful for any help I can get.

Checking the ground connections will be fairly easy, I think. But I'm getting a bit concerned about the rest. lol Help! Truth be told, I always get a bit freaked and then BOOM, I've done it. I'm just trying to digest all this and make sure I am communicating everything accurately. I could always take pics if you think that'll help.

So what would that ground wire connected to the bracket screw do? Are you saying make sure there is a good connection? Did you look at the manual (link posted above)? That would show you the unit's pilot. I looked at mine and I'll be darned if I can tell if there's a ground wire as you mentioned.

Ok, so all units have a separate temp sensor. My manual says that if there is a temp sensor failure, I would see SNS on the display. I've never seen that. What did happen, however, (I mentioned this prior) is that I got erratic temp displays time before last. I turned the heater on, it lit right up. The set temp stayed as it should but the actual temp went from where it should be (at around 86 that day) to shooting up a degree a minute until I let it get to 92 and shut it off. That's why I thought I needed a new control board and why I was trying to ascertain if the temp sensor was a part of that board. I went back to the manual exploded parts diagram and I can see where I got confused. I see "6-C" Temperature Sensor IID Units. IF it's that, how the blazes do I get to it? And finally, could it be the Control Board (since I'm not seeing SNS on the display)?

If all else fails, I will call the pros in to diagnose. And then fix it myself if it's costly. That Control Board alone goes up to $500 thru Raypak. I can get one for $150. $500 plus labor is not in my budget. Plus, that's an easy fix.

Thanks much!! Again!! :)
 
I assume that when the temp began to rise, you were heating a large body of water (pool) and not just the spa? If Heating the spa, you will see a one to two degree per min rise.

Here is the Temp sensor

Here is the Main Board

You now have the part numbers. You don't need to buy from these sites. You can go and shop for the best deal(s).

I didn't see the part where the temp was rising 1 degree per min, so you can forget about disconnecting the touch-pad. Buy the temp sensor first and connect to the board but dont install it in the header. See if it heats continually like that. If it does, go ahead and install it. If it begins to do the heat up quickly thing again, I would begin to look at the bypass or uni-therm gov. If it begins to heat up while the sensor is out of the header, Main board.
 
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Pool Clown said:
I assume that when the temp began to rise, you were heating a large body of water (pool) and not just the spa? If Heating the spa, you will see a one to two degree per min rise.

Here is the Temp sensor

Here is the Main Board

You now have the part numbers. You don't need to buy from these sites. You can go and shop for the best deal(s).

I didn't see the part where the temp was rising 1 degree per min, so you can forget about disconnecting the touch-pad. Buy the temp sensor first and connect to the board but dont install it in the header. See if it heats continually like that. If it does, go ahead and install it. If it begins to do the heat up quickly thing again, I would begin to look at the bypass or uni-therm gov. If it begins to heat up while the sensor is out of the header, Main board.
Click to expand...
 
Howdy! Yes, it is a large body - the pool. I don't have a spa attached. Never thought it prudent in NJ...;)

Ok, so off I go...THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH! I'd kiss you if I could, this is best I can do XOXOXO! I really appreciate the time you have taken to help guide me along. It'll be a bit before I get and install the board...I WILL be back to report on my progress...:)
 
[QUOTE="mrsfluff, post: 1672948, member: 85432
I'm back already. lol When replacing the sensor - scary for a novice, I can assure you - where do I go in? Is it the side with the plumbing? Can I just freely open the unit up so long as everything is off? Once in, is there anything else I need to do beside remove the old sensor? Is removing it a snap? Or is there something mechanical involed? I assume I have to go into the top front of the unit to attach it to the board? Or no? I was looking for a video online but came up empty. I didn't want to bother you again. But here I am. ;)
 
Pool Clown said:
You should be able to unplug the sensor right at the board. Then plug the new one in and just let it hang there. Make sure that it is not in direct sunlight for obvious reasons.
Click to expand...
Ok, I assume let it hang there while I see if it works? I saw a diagram that looked like the silver sensor slides into the header, the plug into the board. Like I said, I'm a novice, and I fear screwing up bc that'll defeat the whole purpose. The part should be here tomorrow. I got a brand new Raypak sensor for an excellent price. Thanks again!~
 

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