Pool company guy screwed up...
- Thread starter Pperc
- Start date
There is no consensus lol. Do whatever makes you happy. If you have plenty of returns then cap it. If you want to increase the pressure in other returns, cap it. If you think a small little return with a weak stream might help your water flow in that area, then leave it uncapped. If you think you might want to use a pressure side cleaner if your robot dies or has to go in for repair, leave it uncapped. Whatever you would like to do with it really is completely fine.
Gotcha, thanks. It's right next to a skimmer. Any issue with stream from there impacting the skimmer flow?
I would cap it off then so the skimmer gets full suction
Had a spa booster pump dripping a tiny bit so had a tech come look at it. This was the feedback. Can anyone interpret for me? If needed, I can try and get some pictures tomorrow.
"Spa pump PacFab Challenger 1 1/2 HP,no serial number,cracked drain plug nipple which is a part of pump volute.Cleaning and sealing the plug did not help.Pump is old,not sure if new volute can be ordered,canʼt find it in the parts book."
"Spa pump PacFab Challenger 1 1/2 HP,no serial number,cracked drain plug nipple which is a part of pump volute.Cleaning and sealing the plug did not help.Pump is old,not sure if new volute can be ordered,canʼt find it in the parts book."
Your pump so old he can't find the part he thinks needs to be replaced in the parts book.
The housing is cracked and the pump is so old it's obsolete and no parts are available. You need a new pump. I commend the tech for justifying his time and detailing exactly what he did.
Just to go out on a limb, is this not that part?
Pentair Black Front Housing Volute For Challenger Pool Pump - 355468
It may be, but since he said "PacFab Challenger 1 1/2 HP, no serial number" there might be more than one choice and he can't tell if it's the right part without the serial number. You can take the gamble, A working tech can't. If he's wrong, he's got an angry customer screaming, "But you said!" and demanding money back etc etc and he's wasted a service call just to take abuse. I've been there as an auto mechanic.
I'm happy to give it a shot. Is this something that I can install/fix myself? It's not an expensive part.
Another option: i'm likely replacing the pressure side pool cleaner. Could I move that pump over to be used instead of this spa pump? I assume a pump is a pump...
I don't know how handy you are. The exploded diagram looks pretty straightforward to me, but I can (and have) removed and replaced a dashboard from a modern car with no parts left over.
If the horsepower is the same and the plumbing is the same, yes, you could switch things around. But I don't think you can say a pump is a pump any more than you can say a car is a car. A Smartcar is no replacement for a Challenger.
Hmmm, OK. I may post a picture up of the drip just to get your take on it.
@mknauss
Latest full test posted up. I think I finally have CYA where it needs to be (it’s probably just a tad under but better that than over). I just raised FC up to 7 today to be 10% of CYA per your recommendation. SWG seems to hold my number or maybe just be a tad under per day so not quite perfect on that but getting very close. I continue to bring down pH once it hits 8 to 7.4 and hopefully my TA slowly comes down with it.
What should I work out next? The two that stand out to me are CH and salt, as both are on the low side per recommended guidelines.
Latest full test posted up. I think I finally have CYA where it needs to be (it’s probably just a tad under but better that than over). I just raised FC up to 7 today to be 10% of CYA per your recommendation. SWG seems to hold my number or maybe just be a tad under per day so not quite perfect on that but getting very close. I continue to bring down pH once it hits 8 to 7.4 and hopefully my TA slowly comes down with it.
What should I work out next? The two that stand out to me are CH and salt, as both are on the low side per recommended guidelines.
As an update on the drip, turns out there were two leaks. One from the pump and one from the Jandy valve. Pump part is ordered as I’ve confirmed it’s accuracy and the Jandy valve is TBD.
One more crazy story. My pool lights haven’t worked since I moved in. Every time they’d turn on they’d trip the GFI. Had the pool company out to look at that and it turns out that whomever built the pool shed built the roof right up against the top of the electrical box for the lights so now they can’t be properly accessed. Insane... I have an electrician out to take a look next week. Boggles the mind...
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would not mess with them. CSI is fine so CH can stay were it is. Salt, as long as the SWCG is happy, you are happy.
Can someone please link me to the research that connects FC levels, CYA, and microbial killing? I’m trying to explain to someone why FC between 6-8ppm isn’t extraordinarily high if your CYA is 50ppm. They said 1-2ppm is enough to kill any microbial. Thanks!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,303
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Pool Water Chemistry
This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks, Marty. Was this work published anywhere? Why was it never incorporated into industry standards? Why do folks in the industry argue so vehemently against it and think that industry training standards accurately reflect the science?Pool Water Chemistry
This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...