water test results

[anthony21078]

Ive been waiting a week for my taylor kit (shipping problems ) to get here and it should be here in a few days. Ive been using a regular kit from last year and I went to the pool store today to have them check. I know they use the LaMotte waterlink spin touch. I treated the pool with 4 lbs abscorbic acid last weekend followed by 3 quarts of Metal Out by Pool Mate to treat the iron staining on the liner. Prior to the treatment I used 12oz of KemTek 60% algaecide, a neutrilizer to drop the FC to zero and dropped the PH to roughly 7.0.

After the treatment I drained the pool to roughly 1 foot in the 3 foot shallow end, refilled and now Im using bleach instead of pucks. I slowly brought the FC and PH up over the next 2 days. I know the CYA was over 100 before the drain/refill but Im still not happy with the number now. I suppose another drain/fill has to be done?

FC 1.94
TC 2.19
CC 0.25
PH 7.2
CH 141
TA 128
CYA 78
Copper 0.2
Iron 0.1
Phosphate 2390

 

[mknauss]

I would not do anything until you get your kit - except raise your FC.

Have you put copper in your water or is that just a mirage from the pool store test?

 

[anthony21078]

I would not do anything until you get your kit - except raise your FC.

Have you put copper in your water or is that just a mirage from the pool store test?

No. I dont think that particular type of algeacide I used has cooper either. The water test from the same store prior to the ascrobic acid treatment showed copper at zero. I havent introduced anything into the pool other that what I have listed in the original post

 

[mknauss]

Shows the accuracy of their testing then ------

 

[anthony21078]

Ok I know this site hates when pool stores do water tests for you and it is strongly encouraged to buy a proper home kit and do it yourself. I completely understand that. However, the lamotte kit seems like a high-quality piece of Machinery that has a heavy price tag on it. If the pool store is using a fresh syringe to draw the water that I supply and put it in a new unopened sealed cartridge that they open in front of you, why do we completely discredit their test results?

 

[Donldson]

Well, I guess we discredit them due to the constant evidence that they are inconsistent. I mean, you just told us that they tested your water to have zero copper one time, then 0.2 another time (this is a significant amount when it comes to copper). You tell us how that indicates an accurate and reliable test.

Do you want to know why they have a pricey wiz-bang computer tester in their store? It's not for accurate results, it is to imply that their results are accurate. I just got a call from someone yesterday that the pool store tested his water to have zero salt in it. I added 300 pounds of salt to his pool last week. Pool stores don't calibrate their equipment as often as they are supposed to, because they don't care. They just need something that looks expensive and high-quality to convince people to bring their water in.

 

[anthony21078]

Well, I guess we discredit them due to the constant evidence that they are inconsistent. I mean, you just told us that they tested your water to have zero copper one time, then 0.2 another time (this is a significant amount when it comes to copper). You tell us how that indicates an accurate and reliable test.

Do you want to know why they have a pricey wiz-bang computer tester in their store? It's not for accurate results, it is to imply that their results are accurate. I just got a call from someone yesterday that the pool store tested his water to have zero salt in it. I added 300 pounds of salt to his pool last week. Pool stores don't calibrate their equipment as often as they are supposed to, because they don't care. They just need something that looks expensive and high-quality to convince people to bring their water in.

Ok fair enough.

I'm not really sure about the copper thing either. I know my last test was a week ago before I did the ascorbic acid treatment. Is it possible that maybe some copper was put into suspension and now showing up on a test? I'm not sure if ascrobic acid does anything to coppe staining..?

Is cooper a metal that can be found in tap water? If so, perhaps it appeared after filling the pool.....or more likely like everyone has been saying, a false reading by the pool store

 

[Wobblerlorri]

Another couple things about store testing...

1. The test is only as good as the person doing the testing. I would imagine the average pool store employee is not given proper training regarding using whatever testing system the store uses. Things like sample purity and washing syringes between uses with neutral water like distilled water are most likely glossed over, if mentioned at all.

2. Testing takes time, regardless of what testing system is used. Pool store employees are not about accurate results -- they are about quantity over quality. The more tests done in an hour, the more chances to sell expensive pool products. Again, things like washing labware between uses and proper treatment of the sample go by the wayside.

Bottom line is, don't take the word of a pool store test as gospel truth. Trust your own testing.

 

[CactusGirl]

Ive been waiting a week for my taylor kit (shipping problems ) to get here and it should be here in a few days. Ive been using a regular kit from last year and I went to the pool store today to have them check. I know they use the LaMotte waterlink spin touch. I treated the pool with 4 lbs abscorbic acid last weekend followed by 3 quarts of Metal Out by Pool Mate to treat the iron staining on the liner. Prior to the treatment I used 12oz of KemTek 60% algaecide, a neutrilizer to drop the FC to zero and dropped the PH to roughly 7.0.

After the treatment I drained the pool to roughly 1 foot in the 3 foot shallow end, refilled and now Im using bleach instead of pucks. I slowly brought the FC and PH up over the next 2 days. I know the CYA was over 100 before the drain/refill but Im still not happy with the number now. I suppose another drain/fill has to be done?

FC 1.94
TC 2.19
CC 0.25
PH 7.2
CH 141
TA 128
CYA 78
Copper 0.2
Iron 0.1
Phosphate 2390

I ordered my Taylor FAS-DPD from Amazon and it took two days. Since I'm SLAMing and blew through the reagent I ordered a new one and got it in one day. You should look at Amazon next time!

 

[anthony21078]

I did order from amazon but it was sent by UPS and there was a problem with shipping. Nevertheless, the kit came today. Since the store test yesterday and like mknauss suggested, I only added 1 gallon 10% bleach yesterday. Heres the taylor kit results

FC 5
CC .2
TC 5.2
PH 7.0
TA 140
CH 220
CYA appx 1mm past the 100 mark. 110?

Pool math says I need to 197oz 10% bleach to hit a target FC level of 9. But obviously my CYA is way to high. Whats the best approach? Raise the FC and PH levels now and the do another partial drain/fill? Or drain/fill first, retest then proceed from there?

 

[mknauss]

With a CYA of 90 or greater, you should do a Dilution test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.

You should plan on a significant drain/exchange to lower your CYA to 50 ppm or so.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Anthony...it looks like you're using a 25 ml sample for FC testing.

You'll save reagents (and delay another UPS headache) if you use a 10 ml sample and one scoop of powder. Each drop will count as 0.5 instead of 0.2. It will still provide enough accuracy for your needs.

 

[anthony21078]

With a CYA of 90 or greater, you should do a Dilution test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.

You should plan on a significant drain/exchange to lower your CYA to 50 ppm or so.

I tried the dilution test and the dot dissapeared right below the 50 mark. So 100 CYA at least.....another drain/fill will be done tomorrow

 

[anthony21078]

After a hefty water exchange and adding 1/2 gallon 10% bleach during fill up last night, heres the new test results.

FC 5
CC 0
PH 7.2 (took 1 drop to = 7.4)
TA 130
CH 170
CYA 45 (middle of 40 and 50 on tube)

How should I proceed? PH is on the low side but I read that I should keep the PH low since I was prone to iron staining and possibly raising it could make the stains reappear. TA is high according the recommended levels chart. Lower it?

 

[mknauss]

Use 50 ppm CYA.
The TA will lower as you keep your pH on the low side as you state for your metals.

If your water clear, then maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels.