Pentair IC 60 ?

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Philo

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Oct 8, 2015
939
San Diego, Ca.
When I press and hold the "more" button, no lights come on. 10,000 hours remaining? It's very clean.

Now to the problem..... It was manufactured in 2013 but I don't think it was ever used. I hooked it up today and all the lights came on as they should but after a couple of minutes the "Salt Level" area lights went blank. The "Status and Sanitizer Output" area lights are perfect.


What's up?

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Phil,

That is most likely why it was never used... :p

I don't know the answer, but would assume that something is wrong with the circuitry for the salt lights, internal to the cell. I say this because if the salt was really low, the Cell would not be producing chlorine and the "Cell" light would not be on...

Where did you get the cell??

Jim R.
 
Phil,

In theory the cell light will not come on unless the unit is producing chlorine.

When the output is set at 100% the cell light should never go out. When set at 50% the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes, and then off for 2.5 minutes.. etc...

Jim R.
 
I suspect that it's probably working.

To verify, you can check power usage by checking the amps at the incoming power or the outgoing power to the cell.

Are you comfortable testing amps?

The power should be about 150 to 200 watts.

Sometimes water will leak into the electronics and short out the components.

If the lights flash and then go green and then go out, the electronics might be on the verge of shorting out.
 
If you see tiny bubbles at the returns when the Cell light is on, and the bubbles stop when its not, that's another indicator that the cell is producing chlorine. Though if the Cell light is on and you don't see bubbles, that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not producing, only that the bubble aren't reaching the pool...
 
JamesW said:
I suspect that it's probably working.

To verify, you can check power usage by checking the amps at the incoming power or the outgoing power to the cell.

Are you comfortable testing amps?

The power should be about 150 to 200 watts.

Sometimes water will leak into the electronics and short out the components.

If the lights flash and then go green and then go out, the electronics might be on the verge of shorting out.
Click to expand...

I have a tester but I'm not sure where to hook it up?
 
Ooh, if you're not seeing hydrogen bubbles at the returns, I would test water from the returns (while the Cell light is on), and compare it to water elsewhere in the pool, and/or the FC of the pool in general, to determine if the cell is producing, before I started messing around trying to measure amps to calculate watts. Just sayin'... exhaust the easy, safer tests first... Here's another. Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test on night #1, with the SWG off, to determine your overnight loss. Then do the same on night #2 with the SWG on. That'll tell if you the SWG is producing as expected...
 

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You can use a clamp on meter around the wire going in as a power supply wire or on the power supply wire to the cell.

Or, you can use an in-line amp meter on either line by putting the meter in line.

The supply is AC at about 1 to 2 amps. The power to the cell is DC at up to 10 amps.

Make sure that the meter can do the current measurement in the voltage type and amperage range.

You might need to check a few YouTube videos to see how to measure AC and DC amps.
 
Philo said:
I thought the "flow" switch signaled Temp, Salt and Flow. My bad.:oops:

*** UPDATE ***

At night, I can barely see a green light in the salt area. It's about 10% as bright as the other green lights and not visible during the day.
Click to expand...

Flow switch = temp and flow. Salt is calculated somehow by the electricity flowing between the plates (measuring the continuity of the salt water, I believe). Unfortunately, because cold water is less conductive than warm water, the SWG has to try and compensate across the temperature spectrum using the temp reading from the sensor on the flow switch. That's why the dern thing has a margin of error of ±500ppm! And why my low salt light just came on this week even though I have more salt now than I did last spring! If the temp sensor fails, the SWG assumes the water is 72° for the purpose of computing the salt level. The whole thing is a house of cards.

Unless you're see the "10% glow" when all other LEDs are off, it is likely coming from one of the other LEDs, leaking through the plastic of one LED into the next. That's pretty common when an interface has a row of LEDs close together.
 
JamesW said:
Is it maintaining the chlorine level?
Click to expand...

I'll know soon. It's getting cool so it may not be using much chlorine. I'll wait for a day or two.

- - - Updated - - -

Dirk said:
Unless you're see the "10% glow" when all other LEDs are off, it is likely coming from one of the other LEDs, leaking through the plastic of one LED into the next. That's pretty common when an interface has a row of LEDs close together.
Click to expand...

I'll bet that's what's happening. Good call.
 
Ok, that seems odd. If it blinks green, that would indicate that the light works. So, it doesn't make sense that it would go dark.

I think that, as long as the Cell light is solid green, that it's working.

If you watch the cell light for about 10 minutes, does the Cell light go off and back on? Try observing the Cell light for about 10 minutes with the percentage set to 40%.

Try this:

Press and hold the "More" button until the lights scroll, release the More button and then note what the cold water light shows and what percentage light lights up. Then, immediately press and release the "More" button again and note which percentage lights light up.
 

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