Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
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    SLAMing your pool is the best way to eliminate algae, sanitize your pool and get your water crystal clear. If you have algae, or the CC level is above 0.5, or the free chlorine (FC) level is zero, you should SLAM the pool. You cannot do this overnight...it often takes several days to see it completed...no shortcuts. If you are maintaining proper FC levels there is no need to SLAM (or shock) weekly, or on any other regular schedule.

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    The purpose of the overnight FC test (OCLT) is to determine if you have living algae, or other organic contaminates, in your water. If you do, you need to SLAM, or continue SLAMing, the pool. This test is most useful to confirm that the SLAMing process is complete, and can also be useful if you are unsure if there is a problem or not.
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    If you have a new plaster pool or just had your pool resurfaced there is a special start-up procedure that needs to be followed to ensure the plaster cures properly. This is really the responsibility of your builder BUT you might have to carry out some of these maintenance steps yourself so we will briefly go through them so you know what is involved.
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    There are two reasons to lower your total alkalinity (TA) right away, because you want to slow down the rate that the PH rises, or if high TA is contributing to a high calcium saturation index (CSI) which puts you at risk of calcium scaling. You shouldn't lower TA just to reach a target number. Make sure you actually have one of the above issues before lowering your TA.
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    The actual pump run time you need primarily depends on the relative size of your pool, the pump flow rate, the amount of debris that falls into the pool and the use of solar panels (or not). Every pool is different and each pool owner needs to figure it out for themselves. Historically, the rule of thumb has been to run the pump at least 1 turnover per day. However, that has turned out to be a very poor indicator of actual required pump run time.
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    This following step-by-step article will help you transform your pool from Biguanide (Baquacil, SoftSwim hereafter referred to as Baqua) to chlorine. There are a few main advantages of keeping a chlorine pool instead of a Baqua pool.
    First, keeping a Baqua pool is expensive. Just the maintenance products will cost much more per month than using bleach, or even other 'pool store' forms of chlorine.
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    DE stands for Diatomaceous Earth. DE is the fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. DE particles are microscopic and have many sharp edges, trapping fine dirt particles that would otherwise be able to get through the sand.

    Small amounts of DE can be added to a sand filter after each backwash to improve the filtering. The first time you use DE, you need to figure out how much DE to add to your filter. After the first time, you can simply mix the full amount of DE with water in a bucket and pour that slowly into the skimmer.
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    This guide covers smaller pools that have the advantage of a simple water change if ever needed. Seasonal pools on TFP are described as following
    • Above ground pool with less than 3000 gallons
    • Pool where the liner can simply be put into place wrinkle free without the weight of the water
    • Pools that are or could be completely drained and stored each winter

    If your pool does not fit the three above guidelines then you will be better off following the guidelines as described in Pool School. Water chemistry for small pools follows the same basic premise as it does for large pools: maintaining a minimum level of chlorine for sanitation and algae prevention, and protecting chlorine from rapid degradation from sunlight buy using a chlorine stabilizer. There are numerous components to pool water chemistry; this document provides only the most basic outline to maintain clear, sanitized water.
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