Hello. I'm a new user here at tfp and had been a follower since we had some algae. ( No more algae now! )

So here are my my levels currently:
PH- 7.7
FC- 6.5
CYA- 70
TA- 80
CH- 240

So I have a 10 month old and we've been using the pool, but notice that our eyes sting from the chlorine. I was thinking of dropping down the CYA so we can drop the FC in hopes of making the chemicals milder for our little one. Would that help?

For reference, tap water tends to have higher TA, and we live in Houston so it's pretty sunny with some sprinkles here and there. Also, last we tested from leslies, our phosphates were around 2000s. Should I take care of that as well for my little one?

Thanks y'all.

I’ve watched my salt level keep rising and now IC20 is flashing high salt at 4500. Confirmed with Taylor kit. I have not added any salt since initial fill of the pool 9 months ago to 3600ppm. I do believe our auto refill is with softened water, tested it at 150ppm with Taylor kit. We have almost daily splash out with young kids. I know I have to drain but want to figure out what is happening. My only guess is we live in AZ and the temps have caused excessive evaporation but from other threads thought this is mitigated by splash out, ect. I usually can always find the answers in this forum and am stumped. Thank you!!

I never got an answer from Taylor about that one fluky series of FAS-DPD FC tests I encountered back in March. It is now the only chlorine test I do unless I am demonstrating the straight-up DPD method to one of my lifeguards. I love having a confidence level in my results give or take 0.2 ppm.

I am less enthralled by that tiny little blue spoon and the way it interacts with the DPD powder. It cakes up on the spoon making any kind of precise measurement dubious. Then it hangs around and turns the spoon and the little plastic powder container it hangs on black. Cleaning the spoon, even with water or alcohol and a Q-tip, leaves most of the smut in place. It probably does not matter but it bugs me so I wasted a good part of this stormy Independence Day looking for Taylor spoon alternatives.

First question that came up is what does 50 mg of DPD powder equate to in terms of volume? One 32nd of a teaspoon? 1/64? My nasty little blue spoon holds between 50 and 60 mg of water so that would be between 1/83rd and 1/100th of a level teaspoon if my tiny scale is accurate and I got my math right.

Second question was—does powder precision mater? the instructions state "Add 2 dippers R-0870 DPD Powder. Swirl until dissolved. Sample will turn pink (Fig. 1) if free chlorine is present. NOTE: If pink color disappears, add R-0870 DPD Powder until color turns pink." Given the nature of the dipper and the powder "2 dippers" could vary a lot from one person to the next. I find that, if FC is even only 1 PPM, I get a pretty bright pink with just two dippers. If you can just continue to shovel the stuff in . . . how much can precision matter? If it doesn't matter much or at all, can I just use the tip of a popsicle stick to dump a little in? If it doesn't turn pink, just keep doing it until it does?

Possible solutions I have found to my nasty little spoon problem include: tiny stainless measuring spoons, tiny disposable plastic measuring spoons, a 12 pack of the little blue Taylor spoons, and popsicle sticks which are biodegradable and cheap as dirt. I could also see a shrink but that would be prohibitively expensive.

Hello all!

I have a feeling my pentair system was never setup right. It’s about 9 months old in the high desert in Morongo valley, CA. I had both a propane heater and electric heat pump installed

- salt intellichlor
- pentair easytouch 2
- pentair 400k btu propane heater
- pentair 140k ultratemp heat pump

Here are my issues:
- heat pump has never really worked at all. It would never heat the pool, and can’t even get the spa to temp. We don’t use it and seems to be a waste of money unless it wasn’t configured correctly.
- the jets in the spa have never worked. Hot water comes in, but no bubbles! I’m wondering if it was configured incorrextly

I’m looking in the ScreenLogic configure app, hoping you can tell me if these settings are wrong!

A bit after swimming today my daughter started complaining that her eyes were burning and cloudy .. also very red conjunctiva ;((
We have been checking our pool and salt with the Taylor test kits recommended.
Here are tonight's levels
Free cl 5
Ph 7.6
Alk 88
Cal hard 400
Cya 70
Salt 3200 ( measured with salt kit)
We swam yesterday as well with no issues, so I'm at a loss .
This is the first time we have had this concern . We transitioned to a SWG 3 weeks ago.
Thanks for your help!!

I have an 8 month old I5PS system, running a pool/spa combo in Florida. I have a 3hp Intelliflo VSF, and an Ultratemp 140 heater. I have had numerous electrical/computer gremlins plaguing this system, dating back ~2 months. First instance, we had a power outage, and when system restarted, the Heater was disassociated from the spa - couldn't turn it on. Took me half of a BBQ to figure out what had happened, and why, and to go into the configuration and reinstall it. Things like this have appeared regularly, since. Today, a new one: the heater bypass actuators (521485), all of a sudden blinking auto/off, and not rotating to Heater mode, in Spa mode. They can be rotated manually in service mode, and oddly, they still rotate under automation to the correct positions when selecting Pool Heat. I've reset the system a few times, and nothing has resolved on this bogey.

Has anybody had any similar experiences? Pentair has opened a service case based on prior complaint, and disappointingly, nobody has heard of these types of issues.

@kne
where can l buy the inside pool stairs ?

Moved from here.

Hey guys,
my SWG thinks the water is 151 degrees and won’t make chlorine. Any ideas?

I have a 30 year old 33x16 pool im considering a major renovation on. Currently it has 2 home run drains, the skimmer and the main drain in the floor of the deep-end.

A couple of the companies I have spoken to have recommended to abandon the main drain in the remodeling and to replace it with a couple of side suction lines. Is this common practice nowadays? The reasons they cited were that 1) safety of not being able to isolate 100% suction to the main drain and 2) the potential for difficult leaks around the main drain.

Curious to your thoughts on this.

I am having great difficulty getting parts for my aquanaut-200, specifically the "Find 3, PVXS01SA-237-01 Upper Body, Blue Logo"

I order and wait, and in a month they tell me they are out of stock. Is THAT customer service?

Over and over again.

Perhaps Hayward won't ever make the part again so that we can buy some more of their overly complex schlock?

~~~~~
For over 20 years I had the original Kreepy Crawley in my California pool. It worked rather well. I went thru two of them, and doctored them up when parts wore out. It was pretty easy stuff to deal with.

• Are the new Kreepys as good as the old are?
  
• Is there a particular model that is superior?

I've a variable speed Hayward pump that runs full tilt for several hours ever night, then drops down to perhaps 50% RPM for five or six more hours.

I'd like to just get a Kreepy and wait for the parts for that extraordinarily complex Aquanaut to come in.

The Kreepy had ONE moving part. It was an exercise in minimalist design.

• I'm a a degreed mechanical engineer, and always marveled at the simplicity of the Kreepy.

What say 'yall?

tanks

I started a thread last week regarding a stain and found out it’s Iron. See pic below. I’ve been reading up and this will be a process I guess.
Im concerned about not being able to SLAM for 2 weeks after AA treatment but will be using polyquat60 as needed while chlorine is low.

Our new robot should be arriving tomorrow. We’ll throw him in and I scrubbed the pool well tonight and added chlorine to appropriate SLAM level.

I guess I’m just talking through this to get it right for my wife over the next couple of weeks.

I’ll try and get as much algae gone as possible and then let the chlorine drop to 0.

Then I’ll have my ascorbic acid, muriatic acid, PQ60, sequestering agent, and then buffers on hand.

I’m sure I’ll have more questions on the process regardless of how many times I read through the AA treatment pages.

Any other advice ?

TIA - Cheers

Hi! We are currently building a pool. One of the many things we are trying to make a decision about is the sound system. We are contemplating between the Martin Logan vs Sonace 8.1 systems. Anyone have any experience with either of those? Any feedback is welcomed. Thank you.

My Intex SF70110-2 sand filter (purchased 2 months ago) began leaking out of nowhere. I have taken the pre-filter housing apart, and lubed the o rings, but it still leaked. Took it apart again and wrapped the o rings in Teflon tape, added a bit more lube, and eased the pre-filter housing back on gently. I was thinking maybe the o rings were getting twisted when putting the pre-filter housing on, but now I'm not thinking that's the case. It's leaking closer to the pump motor/controls (see pictures). I'm out of ideas and googling isn't helping lol I'm planning to call intex tomorrow, but not sure how much help they will be or if I have any sort of warranty. It's odd that it started out of nowhere. I had no leaks for the 2 months I've had it.

hi all, thanks to this forum and a few other resources, I taught myself basic pool maintenance in a few days and now have my pool chemistry, basic plumbing and operation under control! This new-to-me pool was a great learning experience for first time pool owner given all the gaps that existed.

The two things I am still missing in the Pentair Easytouch set up (SWCG pool + spa) are: a way to automate a little acid dosing if possible (using IntelliChem or Intelli PH) and being to manage the overall operation remotely by wifi. Both these features will be very helpful if I am out for say 2 to 4 weeks and especially if weather changes quickly. Pentair Easytouch has Intellichem on menu but does not have the Intelli PH on the menu. And no wifi control. This house is 5 years old, I am assuming the EasyTouch was not obselete when installed, lol.

So first question -- IntelliChem or IntelliPH? I am looking for a little simple acid dosing to avoid the pH going up a lot. Neighbor has Intelli Chem and seems to be ok with it, but I have heard Intelli pH is better for this purpose?

Second to get wifi -- My options may appear to be -- platform upgrade or in the extreme case, get Intellicenter? Seems i should re-use the Easytouch I have if I can, since Intellicenter is not cheap. What is the recommendation?

TY all for the help!

I’m pretty sure I will need to replace by pool pump .
I currently have a pool Sta-Rite , Dyn-glas pump??
If I get a variable speed pump will I need an electrician to install it or new electrical work ? I just spend loads of money on electrical for our heater I don’t want to do any more!
I just want to swap out the pump , do I need to buy a certain type to do this?

Calling all Boston-area pool owners.

Backstory: I signed up for the forum several years ago because I was trying to find a creative solution for teaching our now 9 year-old daughter to swim. The issue with her is that she is immunocompromised, and public pools are not an option for her. With the help from this amazing community I've been able to install all the necessary purification equipment in a friend's pool (doctors recommend that to make the pool truly safe for her, it needs a UV lamp installed in addition to the regular filters and chemistry), but we only have access to it several time per summer, which has proven to be insufficient for our daughter to make real progress with her swimming. So I am thinking:

If there are people around us who, for example, go away for a week or two on vacation and don't mind us using their pool for an hour or two every day while they are away -- we'd be happy to pay for such arrangement. It seems that daily swimming would provide her with the consistency she needs to get over a hump and get comfortable with water. I understand that liability issues may be a concern for an arrangement like this, but we'd obviously be happy to sign whatever waivers you'd ask for in order to be comfortable.

Yes, I know about swimply and other sites that offer by-the-hour pool rentals, but that business model effectively means that those pools are public, thus defeating the point.

I know -- a long shot, but I thought I'd post it here just in case.

Hey everyone,
I’m thinking about purchasing an outdoor storage box to keep my cover in when it’s not on the pool. I have a 24’ round and was wondering if anyone has ever used one of these. I’m not sure what size box would be best.

At least I think it is a 4.45.

I had a fouled SWG. Cleaned it. Plugged it in.

• "SALT LEVEL LOW" or something like that message.
  
  
• My salt level is higher than 3200 ppm.

Tried to reset salt level, but the instructions in the PDF noted below don't seem to work:

• "ProLogic_4.45_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf"

After a while it reset itself and is now working correctly.

• I would like to know how to reset the salt level from the get-go?

tanks

mac

We have a chlorine tank with an automated pump that runs on a timer. This afternoon, my son accidentally knocked the plug out and plugged it back into a regular socket instead of the one linked to the timer. Basically, the chlorine pump was running continuously for about five hours.

I didn't realize what had happened until AFTER my daughter and a friend had just spent an hour in the pool. As we were getting out, I heard the chlorine pump running, wondered why it was running at a non-scheduled time and figured out what happened.

Just tested the levels — CYA:20, FC: 23.

We had her and her friend both rinse off in the shower immediately and so far they don't seem to be having any other issues from the chlorine exposure. Anything else we should be worried about or watching for on that front?
In terms of getting the chlorine back down to a swimmable level, nothing to do but keep the cover off when the sun is on the pool and wait, right? Pool Math app says the target chlorine for that CYA level is 3-5 ppm. Do we need to wait until the levels are below 5 ppm to get back in the pool? Would adding CYA to get that level back up to 40 help at all?

Any guidance on the exposure for the girls or remediation of the high levels would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!

So, I'm heading out of town and RAIN is forecast (chances) for the next 10 days (southeast Louisiana). We have had a bit of a rare drought for the last several weeks but the summer rain is about to kick in (daily rain that just pops up).
If my pool fills beyond the skimmer, will the pump/filter be compromised, as they are scheduled to be "on/running" each day? Meaning, will any damage come to the equipment if it cannot operate like it wants to? Or, is my only true concern the pool chemistry and filtering, etc.?
I appreciate your help. I am a new pool owner (about 4 weeks or so). TFPs wisdom warriors have come through for me in the past and I'm hoping they'll do the same again!!
Happy 4th!!

My pump got really hot to the touch and shut off - after it cooled down I was able to turn it back on but there is weird smell , maybe a burning smell. Any idea what the issue might be? I’ve since turned it off…

Hey everyone,
Pool is coming up to two years old and I've noticed the concrete pad has sunk toward one end. Some pictures below. Half the nature 2 vessel is off the ground and you can see the slant from left to right on the pad. The return line from the heater has also dropped to pretty much rest on top of the gas line. I added a couple of shims under the right side of the heater to reduce any of the weight and to level it out a bit more. Wondering what solutions I should be exploring. The pad itself is not cracked and I've shoved as much dirt as possible around the base.
Thanks in advance.

Yesterday afternoon my water tested high pH and low salt in my 35k gallon SWG pool. So, I added a gallon of muriatic acid, which I've done a few times already this season, and 3 40lb bags of pool salt.

I added the acid first, all around the pool. About 15 minutes later, I added the salt by pouring it all along the edges. Some of the salt was in big, hard clumps, so I tossed them in. They stayed in clumps at first, but I knew they'd dissolve overnight.

This morning I go out to find staining on my plaster at the bottom. Did I screw up and add the salt clumps too soon after adding the acid, causing the acid to aggregate around the salt and "sit" on the plaster long enough to stain it? Is there a good way to fix the stain?

Picture of the pool bottom where there is no stain, followed by a picture of one of the stains. More noticeable in person.

Hi all,
We have a Jandy JRT3000R heater/chiller combo that our pool builder installed with our pool. It was completed back in December with lots of guidance on running the heater, but not a single word about the chiller. In fact, we didn’t even know we had a chiller until I started researching ways to cool our FL pool down. I noticed that the heater had a chiller option in the menu, but nothing about the chiller in the iAquaLink app, only ability to turn on the heater. Also, I don’t see anywhere in the app where I can add any equipment. I don’t even know where to begin to figure out if the chiller functionality is active or if there is wiring or something that needs to be done. I know that we have a pretty decent pool filter, SWG and heater, but I’m fairly certain we have a less than stellar version of iAquaLink as I can’t do much more than turn my filter, lights and water feature on and off. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this? I am willing to call manufacturer, but if anyone has experience in this topic I would be greatly appreciative of the info!

We're coming up on almost two years of having our pool and the water is finally hot enough (92F) I want to cool it down. I purposely bough the chiller option because I knew this would happen. I have tired all combos of buttons/temps/etc and the heat pump will not kick on. I found this thread Jandy JE heat pump with chiller option error - Low temp threshold sensor open or not installed and though that would fix it, but no matter what I set my temp to it would not kick on. The heater has been working great. I have a Jandy AquaLink RS and iAquaLink 3.0 if that matters.
I'm also going to screen grab dump everything I hope is useful in helping troubleshoot the issue.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I can open up panels and take pics if needed as well.

Jeremiah

I have a 30 year old pool and spa with Pacfab Hatteras style lights. The epoxy resin on both lights has started to fail and I'm debating on my next move.

I am considering the intellibrite 5g color for both. Obviously cost is high, but I'm comfortable doing the install. Will these fit in these niches or are adapters needed? I'm struggling to find clear info on that aspect.

Would you go a different route with lighting?

Thanks in advance!

I am about to purchase a Hayward TriStar VS model W3SP3206VSP. I currently have a older rev Jandy automation RS8 system. In doing my research of the install document here it appears that I can use the cleaner (not free on my system currently), and the solar actuator ports. My question is if I have an RS8 shouldn't I be able to use the 7th and 8th ports on my automation system (pictured)? Also the color wheel is no longer used just the light, and do I need the cleaner? Thanks in Advance.

Hi all. Glad I found this site! Looking forward to learning and getting better at how to treat my pool.

Bought a house recently and came with a an old pool. Here we go!

I’m guessing my pool was built in the early 80’s. Diving board base/pedestal just cracked. Posting pics and looking for advice on repair. Complete crack/break at the bolt at the front. Thanks.

christied48 said:

Click to expand...

Is this Tahoe blue?