Opened a pool two weeks ago. The pool is fiberglass with a sand filter its only two years old and holds 20k gallons. The pool water was extremely green when I opened the pool, dark green. I have shocked the pool twice with cal-hypo which got rid of algae and green color, but now the water is cloudy and there is white dust on the shallow end steps. You can see shallow end bottom but not the deep end. Please help

Bumping this. I have a Jandy 2.7hp VSP and when running at 2400 RPMs it's basically fully primed with only a few microscopic bubbles here and there.

However, from 5pm to 9am I have it run at 1400 RPMs and the bubble grows slowly overnight so much so that it does stay primed, but the air bubble ultimately encompasses basically the whole translucent dome.

When it switches back to the 2400 RPM level at 9am, it eliminates that air bubble within like 5-10 minutes tops and operates full of water again. My nearest return also lets out a steady stream of very small bubbles after a while of operating at 1400 RPMs. Basically, once the bubble in the pump gets big enough (after a few hours).

This is all while I bypass the heater. When I have the water go to/through the heater, it doesn't get quite as fully filled with water in my pump at 2400 or 1400 RPMs as it does when I bypass.

Anything to be concerned about? I've tried saran wrapping and the hose trick on the lid, pump drains, and gasket leading into the pump; none of which seem to make much of a difference.

I have an IC40 that seems to only operate at 100%. Even when output is adjusted it continues to produce the most chlorine possible. As a result the salt is running out quickly as well. Any ideas on how to handle this? It is controlled by an easytouch.

Hi guys. I just took over taking care of my pool and it's been going okay, but I don't think the suction is working well enough as the pool has looked a little cloudy and there is detritus at the bottom of the pool despite the chems looking good (Leslie's testing).

The pool is about 12,000 gallons. I run my Intelliflo at 1500 RPM for 8 hours, then at 2400 RPM for 2 hours. At 1500 RPM, the crawler doesn't move and there is zero water moving through the skimmer. At 2400, the movement is okay on both. Maybe I'm misremembering, but I think the water used to flow pretty well through the skimmer when it was on 1500 RPM. The filter is clean (I cleaned it only about 2 months ago) and the skimmer and pump baskets are clean. I got a drain king and flushed the pipes fairly quickly, but didn't see any obvious problems. I flushed the air out of the filter and I backwashed for a minute or two a few times. I also unscrewed the valve that diverts the water to the skimmer or crawler and it was clear inside.

Should the crawler and skimmer be moving pretty well at 1500 RPMs? Any ideas to get the water moving better besides raising the RPMs? Thanks very much!

Ordinarily, when opening the pool, I manually vacuum all the silt and debris to waste and get the pool clean and balanced before using the robot. It's a miserable job that takes hours, so this year I decided (because I'm an idiot, a lazy idiot) not to do the usual manual vacuuming when opening up the pool, and instead I just netted out some of the big debris (leaves, piles of worms) and then put the robot (a Dolphin SX20, same as S100/E20 I think) in to clean it up for me.

That might have been a mistake. For one thing, it very quickly got clogged up with fine silt (this was with the regular basket, not the fine one). Worse, all kinds of debris is now sprouting out from every opening and even the joins between the plastic exterior panels - evidently crud and debris has got everywhere inside the thing once its basket got clogged - and I can't clean it out. I did briefly put it back in the pool and it seemed to still work OK but of course the water was still pretty bad so took it out again (and now attempting to clean up the pool the 'traditional' way!)

Anyway, I guess I know now that using the robot for the initial clean up is a bad idea.

But do you think (one I've got the pool clean) when the robot goes back in, the clean water will flush out the debris from inside the machine? Anyone else had this happen?

as the title says my FC is 30 (started out high when I closed and still 30 when I opened a few days ago) and water temp is cold, 65-70F how valid are other tests?

My Ph is 7.2 to 6.8 after a few days of testing. High FC mean Ph test is not valid?
CYA is 50
TA is off the charts. last fall was in 80's now 300. Is the test valid?

I'm leaving the auto cover open for our 70's sunny days trying to burn off the FC and the SWG has not been turned on yet.
I assume without pool use and cool cloudy days it will take some time to get the FC back down below 10?

Notice a small trickle of water today coming from the pool light junction box today. Looks like I’ve already lost a few inches of water over the past few days.

The junction box is 14-18” above the pool level. Trying to figure out why/how this happened and what I can do to stop it.

Searched the forum already and read things about plugging the top of the pipe. Any idea why it is now happening? Thanks for all the feedback and advice!

My pool pump took a dump and I am need of a replacement. I am needing some help trying to figure out what pump to get. I am not trying to break the bank with a $1000 pump. Here is my current setup:

-40,000 galloon saltwater pool

-Hayward SwimPure Plus SWP15 salt chlorinator

-Hayward Pro Series 30" sand filter Model S310S

-Current pump is Hayward SS 1.1HP 230V HST110 motor

I was looking at these pumps from Aquastrong, either the SS:

Amazon.com

or the VS: Amazon.com

However, after doing a bit a research, I think they may have too high of a flow rate. I am calculating that I can max at 98GPM due to the filter, and then 73GPM since I have 2" pipes. Am I correct on this? Looking for some tips!

Hey all,

I became a pool owner last year and have quickly turned into a full-blown pool nerd — and a TFP evangelist.

With the size of our pool, I couldn’t help but feel like the flow was just too dang low.

I wanted to share my experience doing some pad-side plumbing upgrades this past week, since it was something I contemplated over and over.

Background:

• Pool size: 44×22 ft, 50,000+ gallons, 11.5-12 ft deep
• Pool age: Built in the ’60s or ’70s (hybrid pool: gunite/plaster floor with fiberglass walls — still hanging in there!)
• Underground plumbing:
  • 1.5” skimmer line — One skimmer for the whole pool. It's rough with how many trees we have. Betta SE has been helpful.
  • 1.5” main drain line
  • 1.5" return line going to two returns
  • (Now previously) unused 1.5" line that was a pressure-side vacuum with booster.
• Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo3 1.5 HP (2” union slip fit, 1.5" inside fit)
• Filter: Triton sand filter (not sure what the model is, the sticker is wearing off)
• Heater: Pentair MasterTemp 400
• Starting flow: ~35 GPM at 99% RPM. 39 GPM on a really, really good day.

What I Changed:​

• Suction side:
  • Installed Jandy 4715 3-way valve to combine the skimmer and main drain into a 2” trunk (previously 1.5"). This replaced two seized up, basic ball valves that I'm sure restricted flow.
• Return side:
  • Converted unused pressure-side vacuum line into a new dedicated 1.5” return
  • Added a second Jandy 4715 3-way to split the 2” return trunk into two 1.5” returns (existing and converted vacuum line)
  • Installed full-port Jandy BVSU015 1.5” ball valves on each return line (no room on suction).
• Other:
  • Re-plumbed all pad piping to 2” PVC (pump ➔ filter ➔ heater ➔ returns)
  • Installed a flow meter (H2Flow) on the return trunk

Preliminary Results:​

• Flow
  • 65–72 GPM at 99% RPM (60-70% improvement)
  • 35 GPM at 65% RPM
• Filter pressure dropped:
  • From ~20-22 psi ➔ ~14–15 psi at the same RPM
• Turnover time:
  • I'd be lucky if I could get the pool to turnover once in 24 hours. Now, I can turn it over almost twice in a day if running full-blast.
• Usability:
  • I can now control the flow of both suction and returns much more easily.

----

At this point, I'm still dialing in the new return port's eyeball and the return Jandy BVSU015's to try to get a nice circulation pattern.

Since I’m still a pool novice, I’m not here to blindly recommend this — just wanted to share my numbers and experience as a bit of a “science experiment.”

Please feel free to pick this apart and tell me where I went wrong or what I could improve. In the future, I would love to add a SWG and go cartridge to save some space and make future plumbing projects easier.

Greetings!
Last Fall (2024), I received a used SX2800 Sand Filter and Pump from a friend who was moving. She hadn't used it since Fall 2023.

I want to test the pump before purchasing sand and filling the sand filter. My question...can I bypass the sand filter and directly connect the pump to the pool using the corresponding outlet and inlet connections to the pool. Will that damage the pump in any way?

Pool water is clean and balanced. Pool is covered with solar cover, so minimal debris.
Thanks!!

hi! the house came with an old concrete pool and these items in the photo -
heater, DE filter and 1HP pump.
i guess the pump was left running over the winter for a weekend without water and now it looks like its burned out and the pipes seem melted (photo below was taken 1.5 yrs ago when we paid for a pool survey). how that happened? i installed a wifi timer (this site helped me figure out the wiring!) and somehow it ended up engaging on its own or butt dialed, whatever it was i noticed 3 days later the pump was running after i winterized it.
I bought a

1. used 700sq ft cartridge filter Hayward C7030
2. new Pentair IC60 salt cell
3. new china 2hp pump (yes i know, but the price is crazy to not at least try)

The idea i have is to DIY the following:

1. remove the DE filter
2. Remove the multi-port valve
3. ramove the pump
4. install the cartridge filter
5. install the pump
6. install the salt cell

Question A:
the 2 white pipes coming out of the heater, i assume the right one is the return to the pool pipe? is that where i need to put the salt cell? is hot water going through the cell ok?
i read somewhere:

1. the chlorinated water coming out of the salt cell shouldnt go into the heater, get heated up then go into the pool - is that true? "needs to be placed "after" the heater? fyi the heater will not be on much, i assume a total of 14-30 days a year in the summer
2. the salt cell should be on a higher than the pump level

Question B:
the filter - should it have a bypass valve? for when i want to "back wash" or vaccuum the pool gunk? any advice on what valve to get?
Question C:
is removing the pump and filter and attaching new pipes, joints, gluing - is that easy to do with youtubing advice? i realize i need a cutter for the pipes, glue and primer and some planning skills.

Question D:
looking at the old photo - is there a pipe config you suggest given i am redoing most of it?
(misc status - the pool is a mess tiles are falling off, a couple of large water line cracks, plaster chipping, old lights were removed filled and painted on looks scary, and now theres a leak that lost 2 ft of water and stopped half way (i emptied the water to just below the return jets and over the winter it dropped 2ft! and stopped).

Trouble Free Pool Method Only! IS THIS CORRECT!
Starting the Slam Process on a 16x36ft. 3-8 ft depth with 5ft average. Approx 22,000 gallons correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Taylor K2006C test kit.
FC-0
CYA-0
PH-8+(unknown how high shooting for 7.2)
TA 120(shooting for 80)
CH-0
Ready to start the SLAM.
STEPS
1.Lower PH to 7.2(which will lower TA also)
2.CYA to 40-50
3.SLAM WITH 10% POOL BLEACH.

Hi all. Have a Hayward PowerFlow Matrix, manufactured 2020. At the end of last season, it seemed to be running louder than usual. Worked fine until end of season. Decided to do some checking (the mounting base was totally rusted - though I believe that's from skimmer water leaking and setting at the pump base - not a seal issue.

Anyway, I can't get the impeller off no how, and Im also not sure if there's too much resistance on it - doesn't seem to spin easily to me, and there is a slight scraping noise.

15sec video - Login to view embedded media
Do you guys think there is more of an issue here or just throw it back together and run it? No one locally services them it seems. Thanks.

Hello, looking for some more incite on an air problem I'm having with my system. Towards the end of the season last year, I was getting a lot of small air bubbles from from first in line return jet. This year upon opening the pool, it has gotten worse. I've had a hard time getting the pump to even prime and when it does, I have major air coming from the return. I have read the pool school blog on the subject and here is what I have done to try to remedy the situation and my equipment. side note: the only air I was able to find prior to the tried remedies was water coming from the fitting going into the basket when I would shut the pump off.

All new seals in basket, and back to the pump.
New pump (I redid my electric and when ahead and installed a brand new pump. Had air problem both before and after new pump).
Replaced portion of the above ground PVC going into the basket and from the basket up to the filter.
Lubed all seals, cranked down basket lid, flushed suction line going to basket.

After all this, I saw initial improvement when starting pump. After a several minutes, it returned to having the air issue and having a hard time priming. It is a Heyward sand filter system with no chlorinator. Just looking for something I'm possibly missing or something else to try. I do have air coming out where the pump mounts to the basket assembly, I have no idea if this is normal or not (seems to be coming from the external parts of the threaded holes). Free and open to answer any questions on anything I have posted. Attached are before and after pics of the plumbing and a video. Thanks in advance!

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Over the past few months, Ive been trying to figure out why my pool flow / pump output has decreased a lot since I first bought this house with my pool. At the end of last summer, I did replace the sand in my sand filter and installed a new primary pool pump with the same one that came with the system when I bought the house.

I have checked all of the obvious stuff:
-clean skimmers, pump basket, blockage/build up in pump
-I've tried switching to recirculate mode to avoid the sand filter
-I've tried only pulling from skimmers and then only pulling from main drain to see if that changed anything.

I have had some pebbles from my spa start to come loose last year so I am not sure if they are stuck somewhere in the system causing flow issues. Some of them got into my multi valve on the sand filter making it hard to turn it so I had to remove that and clean the pebbles out.. so wondering if that is causing lot flow issues somehow.

My sand filter PSI seems to stay at 10psi before / after backwash. It is a 500lb sand filter and when I replaced it, I did put in a full 500 lbs.

Another issue I notice which may be a contributor is when I run my aux pump which is used for the pool cleaner... after this runs for a while, my main pump flow gets even worse and my spa overflow slows to a trickle.

From when I first got the pool, i'd guess my current flow is 20-40% of what it originally was just by judging the overflow from the spa waterfall.

Would appreciate any advice you have in helping me figure out the issue in my system. thanks.

Few pics of my system:

Does anyone have any experience with Pool Pure or Future Way replacement cartridges. When we installed the pool almost five years ago we used OEM Hayward filters. They have been great. Obviously the off-brand filters are much less expensive. I've often found you get what you pay for, and I can't really complain about getting 5 years out of the Haywards before they started falling apart, but just thought it might be worth asking about these brands because they get good reviews on Amazon. Thanks!

4 yr old all Jandy system
Aftwr replacing the salt chlorinator i found i couldnt control my JXI heater with my iaqualink I could turn on the heater manually but when in remote mode nothing And the heater light wont turn on the motherboard /electrical panel i replaced the thermostat on the heater but nothing
Salt chlorinator wont turn on because it isn't getting message the water is warm enough to work
The Jandy support said it was likely the 7790 Temperature Sensor. (I checked all cables nothing frayed or broken so guessing just worn out inside)
Has anyone replaced these before? It sticks into the pipe - is it as easy as pulling out the old and sticking in the new? How do you ensure it doesnt leak? (I see how to do the electrical part and it looks easy)
will the non oem ones fit? They are about 1/4 the price but I just worry about leaking

Today I sign the purchase agreement for a new (to me) condo. Unfortunately, that means this will be my last few months with a pool and checking in with TFP. The pool has been good and bad but overall, I’ve enjoyed it. The bad is that I spent a lot of money to install it in the hope that it would be a gathering place in the summer and draw that family (grandchildren) toward us. Disappointing to report that it did not go as planned and it became something that mostly just me and my wife used. The good is that I did enjoy the times we did get together and enjoy the pool and the tinkerer in me enjoyed learning about the process of maintaining it. One significant pain point was dealing with the builder. Won’t go into details but the mistakes they made catch my eye and irritate me to this day, our sixth season.

I’m thankful that I found TFP early on in pool ownership. I only got “pool stored” for the first couple months of pool ownership and following TFP made keeping the water clear and safe a breeze. Seriously, with a SWG and a robot along with few minutes of brushing and skimming, the pool never took much time at all to maintain. I appreciate the help from the expert team here but I have to give a shout out to @Newdude who seemed to always be there to respond to my questions. Thank you!

So, over the next few months, I’ll move into a new home and sell this house to someone else. I’m thinking about how to transfer my knowledge of the pool over to a new person. I was thinking of offering a few hours of my time to get them going. There’s no doubt I’ll be recommending that they get on this site and buy the pool math app and use tftestkits for supplies.

The condo has a community pool. I doubt we’ll use it. I’d want to test their water and I doubt they’d listen to my TFP suggestions but you never know, I may do that.

Thank you Trouble Free Pool.

I’ve got some persistent CC and didn’t pass the OCLT so here we go!

Don’t see any green, no visible signs, but the OCLT tells me it’s there…

I’ve read all the guidelines and feel comfortable enough with the process. I’ve had my eye on a wall whale and a corner brush so those are on the way here tomorrow.

One question: I’ve got my Polaris pressure side (“Mr. Flowboto”) but no separate vacuum. Okay to use him to do the instructed vacuuming? Standard bag okay or should I grab the sand and silt version?

I have a rectangle intex ultra frame pool 32x16x52 pool. I just bought a xtremepowerus 4500 gph sand filter pump. I'm not sure if I have the correct adapters not sure how to convert these hoses from pool to the pump. Help please!!

Hi TFP!

FYI, our pool build was completed in 2017.

I’ve been avoiding a number of repairs that seem/are above what I believe I’m capable of. I wanted to reach out and see if anyone could give me some tips so I’m not taken advantage of by the repair people who will be coming out next week. I’m going to post our other pool issues in separate posts.

SALT WATER GENERATOR (Pentair IC40 replaced under warranty about 5 years ago)

A few months ago I realized that our cell was not working. I clean the cell every few months. I checked it and and it was spanking clean. Then I realized that the “fuse?” in the upper right corner of was tripped (see attached photo). I reset it, started everything up and I heard a clicking sound from that area, then a pop, and it tripped.

The SWG breaker in the panel was fine but I still tripped that and reset it. The same thing happened with the “fuse” tripping.

I searched our TFP site, but the areas I would need to test/replace would be uncomfortable for me to service, so since then I just managed the pool as a chlorine pool.

A couple days ago I reconnected the salt cell resent the “fuse” and gave it a try once again. Same thing happened, however this time the ‘fuse” did not trip to the off position instead it seems frozen in the On position.

I contacted our local certified Pentair pool repair guys. We’ve have used them multiple times over the years for warranty work and their repair guy has been great. That is until when he came out 6 months ago to diagnose a light issue. Well, he gave me a bunch of Crud about what was wrong … So I have little trust in him now, AND he is the only guy the company sends out. I requested that the owner get involved, we’ll see if he shows up.

I see that the cost of a new IC40 has gone way up (over $1,400 and probably a few hundred more with their markup). My concern is that they will start with replacing the cell before looking at other things that may be the actual issue.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
York

New pool build, most likely ordering from Royal Pool soon. Hopefully! I really need help with lights, does anyone have ideas?

• STD Chlorine (Not SWG) pool, vinyl liner (I had a previous 16x32 Doughboy that I learned from pool school) hoping for the same luck
• 20x44 Latham 14 gauge steel panels, Walls are 42" deep with 8' deep end
• full width open steel top steps, they recommended open top?
• heavy duty adjustable 12 gauge steel a frame braces
• 42" deck support braces
• deep end corner swimout benches on each side
• APC 365 vinyl cover in light gray
• 1/8" wallfoam
• Latham Stardust Blue 20 mil liner
• 2x Hayward Wide Mouth Skimmer
• 4x Returns
• 2x Main Drains
• Pentair Intelliflo 3 HP Pump
• Pentair SD80 Sand Dollar Filter
• Raypak 266k Propane heater
• Automatic Chlorinator
• 2" ridgid pvc everywhere with individual home runs for every plumbing fixture
• LIGHTS????? I am scared by everyone complaining on reliability. I am a gadget person and like the color options but don't know what would work best. We are also installing our pool with the full width steps on the house side so not sure how to deal with the lights and brightness.

I am an avid DIY and have done most things, just not a pool I am hoping this will be another fun project. We are planning to do a brushed concrete pool deck to finish things off. Please be as critical as you can! I am an engineer and love the details but am struggling with finalizing things.

Thank you!

I replaced my flow sensor recently and cleaned the cell grids. I replaced the sensor because after a few minutes of running, i would get no flow. The board tested fine per the test instructions from jandy. Even after replacing the sensor, I still get no flow after a few minutes of running. This is with a clean DE filter and adequate flow to run suction side vacuum and spa spillover.

The pool is about 3 years old. I live in the CA high desert and have high calcium levels. Right now, 650ppm. I don't want to drain the pool every year and have read that higher calcium levels are OK so long as ph and alkalinity are well managed, and negative csi is sustained. I monitor water chemistry religiously and pool is always balanced.

The grids show some corrosion, but it doesn't seem excessive to me. The few minutes when the cell is running, i see bubbles from the returns as i normally would, so I believe it is working.

My questions:
1. Is it possible that the cell has failed and needs to be replaced? I don't imagine that a failing cell would cause no flow, and I assume it would throw error codes of some sort?
2. It also seems as if the pool builder wired the aquapure system to be always on. I have a current generation jandy VS pump with the PUMPIQ01 controller. I assume that the aquapure system should be wired to the pumps auxiliary. There are no relays in the aquapure electrical box.
3. The pool was built just three years ago. If it's supposed to be wired so that the aquapure system is completely off when the pump isn't running, I intend to reach out to the builder and ask that the problem be corrected.

Oddly, I'm able to sustain adequate chlorine levels with pump running 8 hours per day on high and the cell set to 50%, which makes me believe it is cycling between flow and no flow throughout the day. I haven't had hours to sit and watch the system as it runs as i work full time, have young kids, and am trying to wrap up a masters degree at the moment.

I appreciate any help that can be provided. I love this site and the TFP method has helped me have an algae free crystal clear pool since the day we first filled it. I'm just at my wits end with the generator. I'm tempted to throw in the towel and just use liquid chlorine at this point as it would be easier than spending hours fooling around with the generator that doesn't work dependably.

Help me TFP, you're my only hope... Other than paying a pool company way too much money to come figure this out for me! LOL

Recent test results:

FC - .4 CC - .2 PH - 6.8 TA - 250 CH - 270 CYA - 40

That was about 4pm yesterday. I aerated the pool and brought the pH up to 7.6 when I checked it at 9pm. I poured the recommended amount of muriatic acid before bed, then aerated again early in the morning. pH was 7.4 this morning. This afternoon it had dropped to below 7 again.

I’m trying to get my TA down but I don’t understand why the pH would be dropping over time instead of raising.

The chlorine is another issue. I’m going through gallons of the stuff weekly. I guess it’s fighting algae and I plan on doing the SLAM soon, I just haven’t had a chance yet. I think I need to bring my CYA up as well because the pool gets a lot of direct sunlight.

Any pointers?

I have a pool + spa ~15000 gallons combo with a variable speed 1HP pump and heater. The pool is able to either circulate pool only, spa only, or spa spillover into pool. Does anyone have any recommendations of a schedule to maximize efficiency of the pump and also the heater so the spa doesn't loose too much heat due to circulation? So far, it seems that I am getting a chlorine loss of about 1-1.5 ppm a day. In addition, does any one have any tips or guides of a good rpm for the pump for the pool and spa mode?

Good evening folks! Thank you for all for all of the help as always...

This year is a big year for us...we've had a vinyl liner pool that we put in ourselves the first few months of covid with the help of friends and family (cousin owns a construction company and i know a "pool guy"). But for 5 years now i've had a single speed pump, and a chlorine pool.

This year we're converting!

We are looking to open the pool and get the plumbing re-done at the same time as the opening...i dont want to open the pool using normal chlorine and chemicals...or am i overthinking it? Do i open the pool with the new SWG installed and just run normal water through it and balance it like normal at opening? then convert?

Or do i just open it and start dumping salt in (or it seems diamond water softener as a cheaper and equally effective alternative it seems).

Pool is 36,000 gallons. i cant' find a consistent recommendation on how much salt to start with but i thinks some math i did was around 26 40lb salt bags to start.

Thoughts on all of this would be great, thank you!

ps. installing a heater this year! Stoked about that...i think it'll really impact our use of the pool and how much we enjoy it here in CT. so a lot going on! Thanks!

We started setting up the pool today. I’ve decided I want to convert to salt. We haven’t added anything to the water yet. The pool is 2/3 full. Do I start be adding 3 bags of water softener salt to the pool and running the pump for 24 hours? How soon do I need the SWG? What else do I need to add? Stabilizer…

4 years ago we built a 20,000 gallon In ground Gunite chlorine cartridge pool with a variable speed jandy pump. Over the weekend we drained it (cya was high) and cleaned the filters. I have spent most of today trying to get it going again. I have attempted to prime the pump no less than 20 times. The water level is over halfway up the skimmers. I’ve got the 2 skimmer lines open and the main drain. I have tried getting it to work with the pressure gauge open and with it closed. We did get it going for about an hour and it seemed great (water never quite filled the pump basket, but was close). We had the bubbler and all the fountains going. Then the pressure/flow went back down without warning. Tried to prime it again without luck. At my wits end. Ideas?

My Pentair iChlor 30 cell has reached the end of its life span. I went to a new local pool supply shop to have him give me a price on a replacement.
This is my first time replacing one of these so he quoted me $1300 an then said I will need a new power unit as well because they both usually go bad at the same. So that was $1400 but then he began to introduce me to a generic system he carried right there in house and claimed it was better than Pentair and had a better warranty for only $1600?

I am getting the “IF” error code and trying to figure out how to fix my Hayward gas heater. I took the gas valve off and the piece in the picture fell out of it. Any idea what it’s for?