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Hello all, first time poster here. I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 that I'm having trouble with. I was getting error code 170 so I called my local pool service company out to do a system check. They diagnosed my problem as a front board issue but could not get another board as it has been discontinued by Jandy. So they recommended a complete new system. I did some internet searching and found a new board, so I installed it myself and guess what? Same error code 170. Where do I go next? Replace the back board?
Thanks for your help,
Chuck

We have the Hayward OnCommand and Hayward VS pump. We started getting a communications error & I could not get it resolved quick enough before being gone from home so I moved my water feature pump (non-variable speed) to the pool filter & chlorinator to turn the water over.

Is there a way to disable the VS in the system & just set a start/stop time on this other pump? Right now it’s on Aux1, but was wondering if I could move it connectivity wise to the VS spot in the controller but disable the VS altogether until I get that resolved. I didn’t see any timer options for Aux1.

Any suggestions or ideas? Also need to figure out my comm issue, which has lead me to a keypad or main board issue.

Hello,

Some backstory: I've been battling an issue with brownish colored spots showing up on bottom of pool. At first I thought it was yellow algae but then reading more about it it didn't meet all the criteria. It grows all over including areas in the sun, not on the walls, and different overnight tests I did never showed a chlorine loss over 1.

Well, I stopped cleaning for like a week and the walls started to get gunk on them. This was mainly on the corners where the floor and wall meet. I was trying to maintain chlorine but there was a moment where chlorine dropped to around 2, maybe lower, at a CYA level of 30 (I only used the liquid drop test in this moment so don't have exact measurement). So it is completely possible it was an unrelated algae bloom but could also be that since I wasn't cleaning regularly it allowed the yellow to spread? When slamming that away I decided to just try slamming for the brown spots in case they are algae.

Back to my question: Right away the wall gunk was resolved but I still have brown spots 2 weeks later. There's maybe a slight improvement in the amount but that could also just be from the daily brushing and vacuuming. My understanding is that visible algae being gone is one of the requirements to stop the SLAM but yellow algae requires a higher level of shock for 24 hours.

Should the yellow algae be gone during the normal SLAM process prior to the 24 hour shock? Or should I complete all the steps except the visible algae part and then do the 24 hour shock?

I am setting up a schedule for my variable speed, Jandy epump. The variable speed pump does not show up in the my devices list on the opening page of the non-web interface. When my schedule starts the variable speed pump, it does not show up on the start page as anything operating.

Am I missing something?

Hi all! We’ll be starting out in ground pool and attached spa build in late fall. I’m just starting to second guess the cost and additional maintenance of an attached spa in comparison to its use. For those of you that have a similar setup, are there any regrets? Is it worth the additional cost? The last thing I want to do is invest a bunch of money into something that will go untouched and then have to deal with maintenance on top of that. Thank you in advance for any feedback.

My name is Ken. I am a relatively new pool owner. I feel like a fish out of water when it comes to issues with my pool. I will be glad to get hear any suggestions and ideas when I have a problem. Knowledge is power and I am pretty powerless when it comes to my pool.

Hello All,
I had to fly overseas due very sick nephew. Water was perfect before I left. I checked on the pool on a camera and tge brand New Polaris with 4 wheels was moving, but a few days ago it seemed like water level was lower and Polaris was stopped. I came back home last night. Water was low to the point no water visible In summer. It was almost 100 degrees. Pump was running but water was moving, so I refilled the pool and tried to turn it on…it makes priming sound but no water starts coming, so I turned it off. Is there anything I can do ? I have been waiting for a pool company to open a new route/get enough employees/customers which they were supposed to do few months ago. They said they would start Aug 1, it is August 8. Is there a lesk or did tge Water just evaporate and did we destroy the system while we had to leave due to family emergency overseas ? Thank you so much. Katarina

Hello. This is the first pool I have ever owned and I am very confused. I live in DE and have a new 22k gallon, rectangle shape, salt water pool with 56sq sun shelf.

My first major issue is a skimmer that I believe was not installed properly. I have a video my SIL took that I would love to share if someone would be willing to give their opinion. It will only let me add a photo to this.

I moved into a new home a little over a year ago. O how little I knew of what I was getting myself into. 1990 home with a large concrete pool with a deep end, when we purchased it was a beautiful blue, I have no idea how the old owner could have kept it up. This summer I have just finished swapping a 30 year old heater, new electrical, auto timer installed, new gas piping completed, and finally switched an undersized cartridge filter system, a Tropic Flo metal canister that drove me nuts constantly cleaning it, for a sand filter that I put glass in. Finally here I am with the right equipment, I gotta master the chemistry. I have lurked here prior but saw the discount on the testing kit so I became a supporter and am going to learn the TFP ways!

Thank you for the add

We just moved into a big house in south central Kansas and it has a 34’x17’ in-ground pool. I worked at a pool during my youth but must have been helping with swim lessons during the chem/clean time. Time to learn now. I’m planning to purchase a Taylor test kit and a battery-powered manual vac. Previous owner left a lot of chems behind and had the pump replaced before our purchase of the home, so pretty well set there.

Thankful for this community, hope to meet and talk soon!

Has there been any upgrades/modifications to the Hayward AquaRite SWG system in the last 12 years? I have to replace the Thermistor 3-4 times a summer. I was curious if Hayward has fixed this issue with newer generation units. It's getting time to replace my T-Cell so thought about replacing the whole unit, but only if there's a benefit to doing so (cracked Thermistor issues etc).

My unit looks like this and was installed 12+ years ago.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get a large, fast frog out of the pool? It’s hanging out at the bottom of the deep end, and it’s really fast! And bigger than any other frog I’ve had to dig out. I need to get the vacuum going

Chlorine pool. What chems can I add at same time?
Getting tests hopefully today

I have 2 questions about testing.

1. Is it normal to never see CCs when testing? I think when I first got my test kit I saw some ever so slight pink color when testing combined, but now I never do. I'll also add I've started doing the 10ml test at the recommendation of this forum.

2. My DPD spoon has turned black. Is that normal? Am I supposed to rinse it after each test?

Hi - I have 4 cmp brilliant wonders bubblers (8in -Hayward) and have experienced continuous problems with them. I have replaced them multiple times as they only last 2-3 years. A unit starts malfunctioning by its lights becoming out of sync and re-syncing the light doesn’t correct the issue. Are there other brands on the market that would be a good replacement?

I'm in the process of SLAMing my pool and my Bromine levels are very high. I added liquid chlorine to my pool and have never used bromine. This is my first time caring for a pool and I'm so confused. Please help!

Our pool was completed last summer and I have always noticed this but recently figured out what the issue is. We have an auto cover and the area where the cover comes out of the box is tiled. The edge of the tiles on the flat top always looked off to me. I finally grabbed an extra tile I had laying around and discovered that whoever laid the tile did so without regard for the finished edge of the tile. So that means that in some tiles I see the finished edge and others show one of the three rough edges. When looked at as a whole it doesn't look good. The same mistake was made in the skimmers which are also tiled.

My question is if you think this is a big deal or not? I feel like it speaks to the quality of the workmanship and attention to detail. I still communicate with the pool builder on a variety of other issues and I feel like I should point it out. I attached a phot of an extra tile with the finished edge laying on top of a tile showing the rough edge.

We live in Fort Worth, TX and we are having an issue with brown stains that some feel like divot creating a small cavity. We have tried rubbing lemon, shocking it, pumice stone. Our pool was built by prior owner we think around the 80's. We had it resurfaced in 2012. Any suggestions removing these stains? Thank you

Are photocatalytic pool sanitizers such as the below a useful addition to my filtration system??

Or are they in essence a type of UV light steriliser for which I guess the tfp position is that they are no needed/ worth it.

I have an outdoor 50m3 lap pool with a skimmer/sand cannister filtration system which I sanitize using a combination of trichlor tabs and liquid chlorine and periodic partial water changes to keep the CYA at check. The only reason I am not only using liquid chlorine is that when I was doing that it was too much work (buying, carrying, dosing, ....) and very manual...

Brand new IC40 says Low Salt ... but the Taylor K1766 says salt is at 3400ppm.

Good evening. I just plumbed in a Pentair IC40. I brought salt up to 3400ppm in two steps. I've been aerating and acid dosing to bring TA <=80, and then I'll add cyanuric acid to bring CYA up to 60. In the mean time, I ran water through the cell and applied power to it to make sure it checks out good. The flow switch shows good, cell output lights indicate 100%, and for the first few minutes I get the dancing red/green lights as the cell tests for salt. Then I get a solid red LOW salt light.

The numbers:
FC - 7
CYA - 40
TA - 100
CH - 350
pH - 7.2-7.8 as I aerate and acid dose
Water temp - 86F

Pool was replastered two months ago.

What's going on with the Intellichlor? Do I need to run water through it for a while, or do I have a bum unit?

Starting a new pool build and looking for seasoned advice. Concerned about design, materials, and maintenance. Any tips or lessons learned from personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. Aim for longevity and ease of use. Thanks! Check-In.

Hi All, Just joined.

Just wondering if someone experienced a cell go bad in 3 years. I have a Haywad TCell-9 for a 12000 gallon pool. I clean the cell with muratic acid and all is good. After a month or two; it goes out of wack saying my sallt is very low. I checked Salt with a different device and it is at 3700. Chems are maintained weekly. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

1. About how much is it to have a solar mat system installed on a flat roofed three car garage, full sun, next to a 15 x 35 ft. pool in Central CA? I have the plumbing to and from the pad to the garage already. Bubble solar pool cover is used year round. I already have a MiniMax Gas heater but I'm getting solar PV panels so want to transition from gas as much as possible. I could do it myself but I've done the full remodel and want to start doing something else. It looks like a small project compared, but..... Anyway, how much to have someone else do it and do it well?
2. I use the pool year round. How warm will they keep the pool in the winter in Lompoc near Pt. Conception. Looks like temp ave. are in low 50s from Nov - Feb and mid 60s March - Oct. (according to the site, WeatherSpark) So is it worth it? To compare to a heat pump I need to know the cost of the mat install and how much warmth they'll give me. Thanks.

My 10 year old Master temp 300 will go thru its start up, I smell gas, it will start and the exhaust is warm then it stops and try’s to start two more times. I pulled the tap off and found what looks to be the U11 LED light on. I already changed the AGS, high limit and flue sensors. I bypassed both sensors on the other side of the heater as well. The igniter has around 50 ohms so it should be good. Any ideas?

I got a circupool core-55 last year and the cell is already asking for a replacement.
funny thing is it never once alerted that the cell needed cleaning, which is odd.
Anyone have this short of a lifespan for the cell?

I installed a Core55 SWG in May of last year and I noticed today I'm getting a Low Cell Life red light on the unit. I'm located in South Florida, I run my pump 10 hours a day at variable speeds, just enough to circulate the water twice per day. The pool is 20k gallons, and the chemistry as far I can tell I has been rock solid, I've been using the same weekly pool maintenance guy for about 2 years and he emails me the pool chemistry every week.

The Core55 is rated for 55k gallons max, which has me wondering how the cell can already be depleted after just over 1 year of use. In the winter months I only run the pump for 5 hours a day also, so it's not like I'm going nuts running the generator too hard. Anyone have this issue before or know if the cell is covered under warranty for premature wear?

Hello everyone -

I’ve tried to research the forum for the latest information/equipment from Pentair, but realized that it might be easier if I just post and ask for your advice and recommendations. Their website is overwhelming, as I just need to know what the best workhorses are! I’m a designer, so the equipment isn’t my thing. At I least I know enough to consult with the very best! Everyone on this forum has been amazing - and has helped us so much with our existing pool here in Atlanta.

My husband and I are renovating an existing pool in St Croix USVI (long distance, isn’t that fun?) and having the equipment shipped from a distributor in Florida. Our existing pool in Atlanta GA was renovated several years ago with new Pentair equipment (listed below) and we’ve been very happy. We definitely want to stay with Pentair because we’ve had such a good experience and want everything to work together.

Any advice/thoughts will be greatly appreciated! I need to send this list to be purchased ASAP.

Please keep in mind that we are in STX only part of the year and while we do rent the house often, we will have a local company checking on and cleaning the pool regularly. My thought is to purchase workhorses that are not overly complicated and easy to use.

Thank you - Amy

Pool: approximately 30,000 gallons. Partially inground gunite with plaster and Ecofinish (we love that finish in case anyone is interested!)

Equipment room: located under the back (ocean side) of the pool and completely hidden from view. All concrete.

Control: Pentair Easytouch Automatic Control (is IntelliCenter a better choice?)

Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo3

Salt System: Pentair Intellichlor 40 (is a Pentair Intellichlor 60 enough for this “new” pool?)

Heater: Pentair Mastertemp (we have 400,000 BTU for our Atlanta lap pool, but STX will need an electric/heat pump or propane. Asking locally to see what is recommended). Would the UltraTemp be a good option? Our pool is above sea level and gets a constant breeze, so it’s crazy how often the water is cold. We have solar panels on our house, but it’s been recommended to get separate ones that water run through for the pool. Then why would we need a separate heater? This is so confusing, so would appreciate any advice on what really works. The pool is in full sun. Again, you’d think it wouldn’t require heating!

Filter: Have had a cartridge filter recommended to us. Pentair has a few. Any idea which is best to purchase?

Light: Pentair IntelliBrite LED (unfortunately we can only install one to work in the existing cavity. Wish someone would invent a way to add lighting without having to bore into an existing structure)

I have tried everything. Can you send me the basics of how these pumps work please.