Latest activity

bigpoppapoolman · Mar 24, 2025

katie.e.mccall said:
Hi-
We are getting our vinyl liner replaced, and the water in the pool has been drained. The pool had green water prior to draining, so I am wondering how to clean/drain/what to do with the pump/piping/filter to get that gross water out. I imagine with the new liner and clean refilled water I will send a bunch of that gross water back in once the pump is back on- is there a way to avoid that by cleaning/draining it now? Or is that just a part of the process and I’ll SLAM it to fix it?

22k gal in ground vinyl liner pool
Hayward sand filter

Prime the pump with filter on Waste setting. Once it is running at full flow… let it run for 30 sec then turn it off and switch to Backwash … leave it there at full flow til backwash sight glass is very clear , usually 2-3 min or so , switch off, turn to Rinse … full flow for 15 seconds , off ..then switch to Filter .. pump on again … good to go.

Newdude · Mar 24, 2025

kimiftn said:
The black lines are approximately where the new pool will be.

300 would be my start point with those big trees that will shed all kinds of crud. If the cost to go to 400s was minimal when divided over 20 years, I'd go 400s.

To expand on the post above, sand filters (or DE) have easier backwash cleanings to get them to the big, break it down and go buck wild cleaning once a year. They still need to be taken apart and deep cleaned.

All 3 filters get about as long between deep cleanings (yard specific) when you compare equal sized filters. For example, the largeest residential sand to the largest residential cartridge. Or the mediums (etc)

sande005 · Mar 24, 2025

If your returns in the pool have screw on "eyeballs" or other fittings, take one off and see if there is a normal pipe thread inside the open pipe.
I have 3 such in my pool, and they accept standard 1 1/2" treaded fitting from the hardware store. With a few 90 degree elbows and lengths of pipe, you can redirect what comes out to not go back into the pool. I press fit all the pieces together, no need to glue. I use mine to redirect the antifreeze I put in the lines for over the winter, so it doesn't dump into the pool in the spring. You can have one contraption, and clear each line individually using the return valves, or make enough for all your returns and do them all at once.
Put the system on Recirculate, and pump away once the pool is refilled. It will suck clean water in via the skimmers/drains, and whatever was in the lines will come out of the redirected return(s). After all return lines are done, take off the contraptions and backwash your sand filter.
Then back into normal operation. But you probably should still do a SLAM, as even this will not be near 100%.

But honestly - while the above is not hard, it is a bit of overkill for the situation. I'd just get it all running, and do the SLAM. Even if the pool was a dank, alligator infested swamp, there won't be much in the lines/equipment and the SLAM will take care of it. Even though I have the fittings, I'd skip it. 10 gal of antifreeze not in the pool (even though harmless) is one thing. Since I'd have to do it anyway, a brief SLAM is just easier.

SteveK52 · Mar 24, 2025

Lake Placid said:
As posted yes the bearings are replaceable. More often than not replacement is beyond the scope of most DIY’ers/homeowners. Bench time at a qualified motor shop has often become less economical on smaller motors for repair and it makes more sense to just replace the motor and seals entirely.

Thanks, I'm trying to find who has the best price.

Mstrlucky74 · Mar 24, 2025

RDspaguy said:
Ok. How "powerful" a jet is or is not is determined by a number of variables that can change even between models of a given brand. Generally speaking, higher hp pumps with big plumbing and few jets will be most "powerful" (a factor of flow rate more than pressure). But alot of smaller jets can give a better "massage" even with less "power". Also, get too much "power" and you can't stay in the seat.
In my experience, the "power" of the jets will be a minor factor in your overall enjoyment. Don't base your purchase on that.
Price correlates to longevity in most cases, so the more expensive tubs are likely to last longer but may not be "better" from the perspective of the user. Expensive tubs are also expensive to fix once the warranty is out, so think about that too.
Wet test before you buy. That means your butt in the seat with it full of hot water. Don't buy it if you don't like it. Buy from a reputable dealer.

Thanks. I want it to be therapeutic.

Lake Placid · Mar 24, 2025

As posted yes the bearings are replaceable. More often than not replacement is beyond the scope of most DIY’ers/homeowners. Bench time at a qualified motor shop has often become less economical on smaller motors for repair and it makes more sense to just replace the motor and seals entirely.

ajw22 · Mar 24, 2025

katie.e.mccall said:
Or is that just a part of the process and I’ll SLAM it to fix it?

Correct.

Should be a quick SLAM Process after filling.

Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

SteveK52 · Mar 24, 2025

ajw22 said:
Login to view embedded media

Thank you

ajw22 · Mar 24, 2025

SteveK52 said:
Do you know if the bearings are replaceable and if so how difficult to replace them?

Login to view embedded media

SteveK52 · Mar 24, 2025

Lake Placid said:
Sounds like bearing noise to me. If it is indeed bearing whine it will likely progressively get noisier as the pump continues to run. Have you seen any wet spots around the pump that are unexplainable? Are any of the inspection slots on the bottom of the pump wet? Without hearing it brand new in pristine condition, it’s hard to definitely tell you if the bearings are on the way out or something else.

ETA: After listening with earphones I believe it to be bearing noise. Double check the fan shroud at the back to ensure no debris is caught between the blades and the housing, but it does sound like bearing whine to me.

Thanks, I will check for wet spots this morning. I appreciate your help! Do you know if the bearings are replaceable and if so how difficult to replace them? Thanks again.

ajw22 · Mar 24, 2025

Welcome to TFP.

Some plaster jobs work out well with little plaster dust. Congratulations on getting one of them.

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

nuttyp · Mar 24, 2025

Thanks @Maverick23 for all the additional explanation, sorry for slow reply......

Maverick23 said:
Carrier probably designed the HP this way to eliminate the cycling of the reversing valve

Thinking same

Maverick23 said:
The weakness is in the racetrack design. The racetrack is two one way check valves and two solenoids. Looks like a race track thus the name. When activated for pool heating it prevents refrigerant from flowing the wrong way

I get it, thanks. While pursuing my epa608 cert I wound up with a couple racetrack diagrams pinned to my wall - still there! In those travels I just never ran across the racetrack term, it's a perfect description. Just more track options, controls and valves for the heat pump versions.

Maverick23 said:
So the hotspot control panel uses all three of these wires to power the two AC/DC converters that converts the signal for the arduino controller to use. One is to power the arduino and the other is a voltage sense pin that is programmed. Problem is this sense pin is not isolated or disconnected on shutoff so it will continue to power the arduino. I wired a mechanical relay to break the connection when the Y signal drops at the thermostat. This was also hotspots suggestion which I think is a really garbage way to manage this flaw.

For starters I didn't even realize that FPH now uses an arduino these days, at least for heat pump versions. I've been answering questions about how it works, but my install, circa 2012, was vanilla and dated, so I need to season my replies given the updates! I'd be tempted to consider reprogramming the arduino in some way, or else adding some other logic - maybe via a simple programmable logic array PLA device - but you have the better grasp of all the logic!

Maverick23 said:
Heater works great, it does in fact heat the pool. However when the pool temp nears 85 and up I don’t think it really saves energy. The compressor is essentially using hot water to condition the air which raises the refrigerant pressure and thus the watts consumed by the compressor. You are basically getting free heat though

That makes sense, and it's possible that the compressor current/load savings I reported were measured with cooler water, I'd have to re-check my data. I guess you still save a couple amps because the condenser cooling fan isn't running.

Another, perhaps remote possibility, is refrigerant overcharge that would raise the pressures and increase load. Not that you want to think about that

But it was always a mystery to me that FPH sized things without really addressing more detailed refrigerant volumes and whether they are equal when running in each mode. Back in the day FPH just recommended heat exchanger sizing based on A/C tonnage, but I always wondered if the system might be over or under charged in one mode or the other, even if only slightly, if the FPH exchanger used more or less volume than the existing condenser coils. I suppose careful measurements of subcooling and/or superheat values - compared to specified nameplate values on the heat pump - would verify that.

All of that assumes you have any interest in continuing the giant science project. Then it's like you work for FPH

Overall, am very glad it's working for you!

nuttyp · Mar 24, 2025

That's a great link, I think, provided by @JamesW - What Most Techs Get Wrong About Wire Sizing, explaining how and why the NEC/NFPA allows manufacturers to set the smaller #8 as acceptable in this case. I still might consider upsizing to #6 to allow for a future equipment change - perhaps for a bigger heater or one with different specs.

tommelton · Mar 24, 2025

We built a pool a few years ago - the one feature my wife wanted was a slide... She uses it almost every time we use the pool. She is a kid at heart!

SR Smith Typhoon.

-Tom

tommelton · Mar 24, 2025

katie.e.mccall · Mar 24, 2025

Hi-
We are getting our vinyl liner replaced, and the water in the pool has been drained. The pool had green water prior to draining, so I am wondering how to clean/drain/what to do with the pump/piping/filter to get that gross water out. I imagine with the new liner and clean refilled water I will send a bunch of that gross water back in once the pump is back on- is there a way to avoid that by cleaning/draining it now? Or is that just a part of the process and I’ll SLAM it to fix it?

22k gal in ground vinyl liner pool
Hayward sand filter

JamesW · Mar 24, 2025

Buy the parts, build your own pump and save $600.00.

JamesW · Mar 24, 2025

Maybe everyone should just buy the parts instead of the whole pump since it is cheaper.

JamesW · Mar 24, 2025

https://www.nvenergy.com/publish/content/dam/nvenergy/brochures_arch/save-with-powershift/pool-pump/NVEnergyQualifyingPoolPumps.pdf

JamesW · Mar 24, 2025

Different impeller.

Same Motor/Drive Assembly (RS-485) 356289S for both.

PoolStored · Mar 24, 2025

Needsdecaf said:
Ugh. Well, that’s going to screw up all the chemistry.

It's not so bad...

Your pH and TA will likely be fine. Just get your pH back in range 7.0 to 8.0.

CH is an easy adjustment if low. Same with CYA, and FC.

Start with CYA and FC, then worry about pH an CH (min 250 to protect the plaster).

Easy living...

PoolStored · Mar 24, 2025

All Inyo pricing...

New Whisperflo 2.6 is $1800.

Pentair Whisperflo VST 2.60 THP Inground Pool Pump, Variable Speed 115/208-230V - EC-011533 - INYOPools.com

Pentair Whisperflo VST 2.60 THP Inground Pool, Variable Speed 115/208-230V

www.inyopools.com

2.6 Impeller: $123.

Pentair WhisperFlo Impeller, 2 HP Full, 2 1/2 HP Up Rated - 073130 - INYOPools.com

073130 - IMPELLER, 2 HP FULL 2 1/2 HP UP (073130)

www.inyopools.com

Nidec VSP 2.7: $700.

US/Nidec Neptune Variable Speed Motor 2.70 THP Square Flange 230V 48Y - INYOPools.com

www.inyopools.com

$823...Assuming the wet end is good...

Assume you need a new wet end, seal plate and go kit...

Wet End with Seal Plate (not needed, but hey): $320

Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Volute and Seal Plate Replacement Kit - 357149 - INYOPools.com

357149 - VOLUTE REPLACEMENT KIT (357149)

www.inyopools.com

Go kit 3 (salt) $40

Pentair WhisperFlo Pool Pump Saltwater Seal Kit Series | By Pureline | GOKIT32SALT - INYOPools.com

Tune Up Kit Pentair/Purex Whisperflo

www.inyopools.com

$1183...

What am I missing?

BoneDr210 · Mar 24, 2025

JamesW said:
Motor (TEFC) 356286S.

Same motor.

Thank you! That's interesting... how are superflo and whisperflo rated at different HPs if they have the same motor powering them? Sorry if this is a naive question.