Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

IMG_5170.jpeg

saxon11
IMG_5170.jpeg

need help with 2 inch pvc repair on rooftop solar

D
1poolman1 said:
Before you try cutting and replacing, get some Plast-Aid, mix it a bit thin, pour it at the top of the fitting and let it run to the leak. You can put some tape at the bottom of the fitting so that the "liquid" will flow under the pipe. Then, mix it a bit thicker and apply it with your finger. Yeah, it will stick to skin, but comes off relatively easy. If you use gloves, they will just tear and make a mess
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll look into this and see if I can find some local. amazon delivery is a week out.
Click to expand...

Another Mastertemp 400 question ....

T
I'm a fool, I see that I need to simply jumper across those two lower terminals, sorry.
Heater doesn't ignite, I can turn the unit on and off and there's a set point of 102 displayed, water temp is way below that, in the 70s.

When the heater worked, we used the ET remote to turn on amd off and to set desired temp. I could check the MT panel display and see the temp slowly rising.
1000009576.heic.jpg
1000009577.heic.jpg
Click to expand...

Immediate Pressure Loss after Pump Turns Off

1
jlosurdo said:
Hi there,

Earlier this spring, I had low pressure in my system. The systems had low pressure from the bubbler and consistent air bubbles from the returns.

It turned out that the 17-year-old pump basket lid had some leaks. I replaced the lid, and everything seemed to be working fine.

Last week, however, my pool stopped responding to the automation system. The "Filter" would turn off, but everything would keep running. I had similar issues in January, having the issue diagnosed as the 3HP Relay (by a professional), but due to a shipping issue, I never received the replacement part. Nevertheless, the issue went away for a while.

Last week, the system stopped responding after the automation cycle ended, or I manually tried to turn it off at the control panel and the remote control device. Flipping the circuit breaker was the only way I could get it to turn off. I have been doing this manually for the last two weeks while I waited for the part to come in. The part came in earlier this week, and I planned to replace it today.

Here is when things get weird, and I don't know where to troubleshoot.

Last night, my daughter wanted to use our spa, so I manually turned the pool on, flipped it to spa mode, turned the heater on, and everything worked. When they were done, I turned the heater off, put it back to pool mode, and then turned everything off with the circuit breaker. Fast forward to this morning, I replaced the relay, which was pretty straightforward; however, when I went to turn the pump on with the controller, it came on, but the pump had lost its entire prime. I go through the procedures to get it primed again, and it starts humming with very strong pressure. But...when I turn it off, there is an immediate "whooshing" noise, and the system's pressure disappears almost immediately. I then have to prime it to get it going.

Do you have any ideas at all? I don't know if something happened when I switched to spa mode last night (for the first time all season) or if there is another issue. I don't think it is the lid because when the pump is running, the pressure is perfect.

Any help is appreciated before I call a pool tech and spend a bunch of money. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Single-speed pump? How large? When was the filter last cleaned? What is the pressure on the filter tank when running?
If the filter is dirty, or it is in spa mode with water trying to go through the 1/4" spa-jet orifices, the excess pressure in the system will go somewhere when the pump turns off. The path with least resistance is back through the pump and into the pool. It will take the water in the pump with it.
You need to find out why there is so much pressure.
With the pump on you may even see the filter tank expand a bit.
Click to expand...

1000009573.heic.jpg

T
1000009573.heic.jpg

1000009572.heic.jpg

T
1000009572.heic.jpg

Tr-100 sand filter preventing winter damage

B
Update on this. The fitting was just loose and not broken. It looks like I installed a thin paper gasket on the nut and that looks like it disintegrated after some time loosened the seal. So I cleaned it back up and seems to be ok now. I’ll give it a day to be sure, but I’m back in business now, water is flowing and no leaks so far.
IMG_5578.jpegIMG_5579.jpeg
Still need to plumb the backwash line.
IMG_5580.jpeg
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

IMG_5580.jpeg

B
IMG_5580.jpeg

IMG_5579.jpeg

B
IMG_5579.jpeg

IMG_5578.jpeg

B
IMG_5578.jpeg

need help with 2 inch pvc repair on rooftop solar

1
Dan-H said:
I have a small leak on my roof solar on one side of a 2 inch tee.

Open to suggestions on how to repair/replumb this.


View attachment 644824
Click to expand...
Before you try cutting and replacing, get some Plast-Aid, mix it a bit thin, pour it at the top of the fitting and let it run to the leak. You can put some tape at the bottom of the fitting so that the "liquid" will flow under the pipe. Then, mix it a bit thicker and apply it with your finger. Yeah, it will stick to skin, but comes off relatively easy. If you use gloves, they will just tear and make a mess.

That's actually a fairly easy repair, except its on a tile roof. Don't cut the solar-sensor wire. You can cut the T flush on the left and bottom, cut to the right of the 2 45s, the further is better when trying to make it fit again. Get 2 pipe extenders for the pipe at the bottom and left, glue on a new T, the extenders will position it just as it is now. Then, just plumb the right side as it is now with a slightly longer pipe going into the T.
Be sure to remove the black paint anywhere you are going to glue to it. PVC primer, or fine sandpaper, will do it.

A trick to line up the 45s; there is a mold line on each. That is the 2 ports you want to face each other. A 2.5" long piece of PVC pipe will allow them to fit tightly as you see them. After gluing the pipe into one, apply glue to the pipe and fitting of the other, as you push them together, have that line slightly out of alignment with the other fitting then twist the 45 so that you do align the mold marks and they will be able to fit as they do now.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Dan-H

1746913933273.png

D
1746913933273.png

Immediate Pressure Loss after Pump Turns Off

J
Hi there,

Earlier this spring, I had low pressure in my system. The systems had low pressure from the bubbler and consistent air bubbles from the returns.

It turned out that the 17-year-old pump basket lid had some leaks. I replaced the lid, and everything seemed to be working fine.

Last week, however, my pool stopped responding to the automation system. The "Filter" would turn off, but everything would keep running. I had similar issues in January, having the issue diagnosed as the 3HP Relay (by a professional), but due to a shipping issue, I never received the replacement part. Nevertheless, the issue went away for a while.

Last week, the system stopped responding after the automation cycle ended, or I manually tried to turn it off at the control panel and the remote control device. Flipping the circuit breaker was the only way I could get it to turn off. I have been doing this manually for the last two weeks while I waited for the part to come in. The part came in earlier this week, and I planned to replace it today.

Here is when things get weird, and I don't know where to troubleshoot.

Last night, my daughter wanted to use our spa, so I manually turned the pool on, flipped it to spa mode, turned the heater on, and everything worked. When they were done, I turned the heater off, put it back to pool mode, and then turned everything off with the circuit breaker. Fast forward to this morning, I replaced the relay, which was pretty straightforward; however, when I went to turn the pump on with the controller, it came on, but the pump had lost its entire prime. I go through the procedures to get it primed again, and it starts humming with very strong pressure. But...when I turn it off, there is an immediate "whooshing" noise, and the system's pressure disappears almost immediately. I then have to prime it to get it going.

Do you have any ideas at all? I don't know if something happened when I switched to spa mode last night (for the first time all season) or if there is another issue. I don't think it is the lid because when the pump is running, the pressure is perfect.

Any help is appreciated before I call a pool tech and spend a bunch of money. Thanks.
Click to expand...

My First Pool Kit….Builder Edition

Lake Placid
So I know how much we all love pictures. Here are few from the other day.

IMG_8860.jpeg

These two breakers were feeding the salt cell and the Intelliflo3. The hots ran down to a pigtail….

IMG_8856.jpeg
The hot conductor in my hand was feeding the salt cell (I split the pigtail as soon as I discovered it). The black hots behind it were feeding the Intelliflo3. The salt cell was configured for 120v. The 3HP Intelliflo3 as we all know will only run on 240. I have no idea how the Intellichlor didn’t blow up in this arrangement. Dumb luck? If you look closely behind my hand, you see a white neutral conductor with a wire nut on it. I wonder where it goes….
IMG_8858.jpeg
Oh my….this appears to be an abandoned neutral in the Intelliflo3 terminal box. I guess we needed a real world confirmation the pump won’t run on 120. But hey at least it passed inspection wired for 120…..🤦‍♂️

IMG_8869.jpeg

And the panel after I tidied everything up and installed GFCI breakers for both pumps, the lights, and the SWG. How it passed inspection with only 1 GFCI breaker I have no idea.
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • IMG_8855.jpeg
    IMG_8855.jpeg
    455.1 KB · Views: 6
  • Wow
  • Like
Reactions: kimkats and Newdude

IMG_8869.jpeg

Lake Placid
IMG_8869.jpeg

IMG_8858.jpeg

Lake Placid
IMG_8858.jpeg

IMG_8855.jpeg

Lake Placid
IMG_8855.jpeg

IMG_8856.jpeg

Lake Placid
IMG_8856.jpeg

IMG_8860.jpeg

Lake Placid
IMG_8860.jpeg

Pool lights stopped working, PX300, iAqualink RS

joel98z
@ajw22 I think I was taking the reading wrong… Here is a little cleaner shot of the high voltage side, based on the diagram @JamesW provided I should see 120 volts correct, with the lights turned on? Picture shows Backwire from control box Connected to Blue Wire on transformer , white wires from control box connected to white wire on transformer. Thanks again for your assistance!IMG_1307.jpeg
Click to expand...

Skimmer & G3 Barracuda

1
SoCalI4Life said:
I have had a few homes.with pools. Recently I inherited my childhood home.which has a pool. It is about 50yts old, but has been well maintained.
My issue is that the Baracuda vacuuming/cleaning system uses the skimmer wier for intake. With the "Cuda using the skimmer, I no longer have surface skimming via the pool filtration system.
I have got out the net and spent 90 minutes skimming off the neighbor's Dogwood tree white pollen(?) or whatever the term is for the tree discharge.
Is there a way to integrate some level of surface skimming with the Baracuda taking 99% of the flow?
Thanks for your input/recommendations.
Click to expand...
Pentair/Rainbow VacMate. When setup properly they work. You have to get the one for your particular skimmer as not all skimmers are alike.
1746913553602.png
Click to expand...

1746913553602.png

1
1746913553602.png
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back