So clock is not turning at all. I pushed tab down and I pulled it out the internals. A couple gears seem to be turning but others not. Does this make sense? Thanks

I have a 21x43 oval vinyl pool that is 24,000 gallons. My water is well water and it is clean and clear... except that it is extremely hard When I filled my pool last year the water was perfect until I went on vacay and the ph went up high, and the floor of my pool built up scale from the hard water. After that I balanced the water again but some scaling remains. I used several expensive bottles of stuff form Leslies pools and it did nothing. I read that you could lower your ph for a week and brush it several times a day. It did help a bit but not much. I just bumped the ph back to where it is supposed to be. I wondered if it was possible to take a sand filter, remove the sand, and replace it with water softener pellets and run it between my cartridge filter and the returns? Would that work just like in a house?

My wife thought she was doing me a favor by taking it upon herself to self diagnose some minor stain removal in our pool floor. Anyway, she purchased some vitamin c/absorbing acid (powder) and poured between 3-5lbs. into the water, thinking this would clear up the minor stains. Mind you, she did this w/o balancing the water the proper way. Needless to say, I have been trying to clear up the cloudiness for about 4 days now w/o much success. Pool company keeps telling me to shock the pool. I’ve also been cleaning the cartridge filter 2x day. It’s a in ground, concrete pool. Approximately 10,000 gals. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Btw, I have also run the pump 24/7 starting last night, otherwise it’s set to run 8-hrs/day. Again, any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Hello,
I am new to this site so bare with me. I manage a 124k gal pool in Haines, Alaska. we use a Hayward cat 2000 ORP and for the most part it works great. lately it has been going through a lot of acid. about twice as much as usual. PH is testing and reading correctly at 7.5. The ORP is at 715, which is higher than usual and our chlorine is testing really high at 6ppm total and free. I have the ORP set point at 675. I may just be missing something simple, but i thought i would hop on here and see if anyone had a quick simple suggestion on how to bring the chlorine down and stop using so much acid. Thanks!

-Jae

I had some staining on my inground pool so I turned my ic30 to 0 to lower the FC level per the instructions for magic jacks. Process went great, the next day stains were gone.
then I started the ic30 at 20%, usually sits about 30 or 40% depending on the time of year.
FC level didn’t budge, move it to 50%, nothing. Then to 100% and the FC level started to inch up. I figured, great, it’s working and just needed a boost. Nope, after about a week it never got above 8ppm and now is on the way down again.
The generator is about 5 years old so it could be just a coincidence that it went just then but wanted to ask here in case I’m missing something.
I checked for buildup on the blades and they are clean.

Thanks for your advice.
Rich

Today:
FC 4
CC 0
pH 7.6
TA 75
CH 450
CYA 70
SALT 4200
Water Temp 87

Had a new fiberglass pool installed last year. I have the hayward sense and dispense system. Pool doesn't get used alot, but I've been running now since April and don't have any / very little combined chlorine. I haven't shocked all year - do I need to? no chloramine smells either.

Hello, our new white plaster pool has started changing color in places and spots have been appearing. I have read about several possible causes, but figured I would also ask here. Not really sure what to do, I’ve read it could be permanent bc of the mixing of the plaster, I’ve tried vitamin c, doesn’t seem to do anything. The spots seem to be multiplying and getting darker. I had some more rust colored spots early on and used Jacks Magic blue, the spots went away very quickly, these spots are different. Not sure what to do, pool builder is a dead beat and no help… thanks .

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a house with a pool a month ago and have been super excited to get it up and running (first time pool owner). Unfortunately, it's been a rough string of events since we moved in with the pool. Ultimately, I'm looking for some advice/guidance on what's transpired so far, and where to go from here.

1. 18X36 inground free form pool; ~20k gallons, Vinyl liner, SWG; pool built in ~2005
2. We knew the pool liner needed to be replaced (was 18 years old) as we were losing multiple inches a day of water - so that was the #1 thing to be done
3. Purchased a new Dolphin M400 for the pool before the new liner went in (so we could clean and use the existing pool/liner in the interim)
4. New liner went in from local company installer, Merlin 20 Mil Aquamax
5. We were still losing nearly an inch a day post liner. I let the liner company know and they came out and they tightened the skimmer boxes
6. After a few days, we were still losing about the same amount of water (even after I had plugged the skimmers and return jets) - so the liner company sent a 3rd party leak detection/diver company to have a look.
   1. The diver came in and noticed there was a leak around some of the return jets, so he sealed those up
7. After a few days, we were still losing about half an inch of water
   1. Leak detection team came again and found 2 small HOLES (??!!) in the brand new liner. He patched
8. After a few days, we were still losing a similar amount of water
   1. Leak detection team came again and found ANOTHER HOLE in the liner, and I also had them plug the 2 main drains as some dye was being pulled there. For now, I plan to leave the MD plugged and off, and use the skimmers.
   2. Leak detection guy asked if I had a robo pool cleaner - inferring that could be creating the holes. His logic made sense - he said he wouldn't have missed the holes in the previous pass (and the robot had been in there once since he had left)

It's now been a few days, and we seem to be within the 1/8th-1/4th of an inch a day normal evaporation threshhold - which I'm relieved about. That said, I have no idea where to go from here. My brand new liner has 3 patches in it, my $1500 robot (now out of return period) is the main culprit for said holes, and clearly I have a main drain leak?

Hoping for some advice and expertise from you all:

• Could I have a faulty liner, or a faulty robot? In my opinion, it is completerly unacceptable that the robot could be the casue of this in a BRAND NEW liner. Can I demand a new liner from the company? It's legitimately 2 weeks old.
• I plan to leave the plugs in the main drain and just operate from the skimmers - are there consequences to that?
• Please tell me it gets easier from here?

Thanks all.

Going through a full renovation including making the main drain operational again. Since the old pipe was compromised, the contractor decided to cut a channel through pool shell to install a new drain. See photos. I’m worried that the pipes are too shallow and don’t allow for enough concrete fill? Any advice on whether this is being done correctly or not would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hi everyone,

From what I understand, the only way to prevent my VSP pump from stopping completely when a power outage occurs is to set up schedules to have it come on at various times. Please correct me if that is not the case. With that, I have 4 schedules set, filter on and off from 12am-5:59am, 6am-11:59, etc. I would love to ideally avoid the priming stage at each "startup". If I set my first schedule to go from 12am-6am, then the next schedule come on from 6am-12pm, would this work or would it just stay off? Also, is the on/off schedule correct or could I do the same thing but just change the VSP speed...would that "wake up" the power in the event of a power outage or on/off the only way?

The reason I am doing this is we are leaving for vacation soon and if there is a power outage while I am gone, I have no reason to log into the system and turn the pump back on.

Hope this makes sense. Thanks!

Good morning. I am new here. Trying to get a bit of insight. My pool has issues that I don't understand. I love swimming, I am in it everyday even if its green. Single parents with lots of time to learn about pool to better enjoy it.

We just had our pool completed, and get the luxury of watching it until next year because I'm not a polar bear. The kids did get to swim in it a day or two right before one of the earliest cold fronts in South Texas blew in. I wanted to post some results I've seen with the Hayward Variable speed units. When I ran electric for the pool equipment, I wired in a 100 amp meter service behind my primary residential meter so I could tell exactly what this pool is costing me. (bad idea to know that now)

We have a 1.85 hp Hayward TriStar variable speed on our pool and a 1.25 hp single speed on our water features. We kicked it on for the first time on November 11th full speed. On November 14th I cleaned the filters and on November 15th, I changed the run times for 4-5 hours on high speed and the remainder of the day on low speed.

Top-left graph shows the pool pump demand for full speed. If it ran non-stop that would be 1.57 x 24 hr = 37.68 kwh/day. The top-right graph shows the pool pump demand running at 50% which running non-stop would be .23 x 24 hr = 5.52 kwh/day.

The middle-left graph shows the pool pump and water feature pump kicking on yesterday morning due to the freeze protection. At approximately 5 am it kicked on and then again around 6:45 am. Combined kw for both the pool at full speed and water feature pump is 2.94 kw. The middle-right graph is the pool pump running non-stop until I changed the settings to 50% for a majority of the day. The bottom-left graph shows the KWH/day usage for the pool pump running non-stop until November 14th where I cleaned the filters and on November 15th where I changed the schedule.

Granted the water flow is relatively low on 50%, you can see the energy savings if you can still turn the water over. I plan to play around with the different % on high speed to see what the demand looks like on those as well. I may never run it on high speed if I can get the turn over and have savings on the electric meter.

Hope this is beneficial to others. Now to figuring out this water chemistry and I'll be happy.

Good morning,

I have had my pool 3 years. I have a 24 foot above ground pool with Hayward Dual speed 1.5 pump and the Hayward Filter with Cartridge. I reach August and my pool is greener than a swamp. Last year, i ended up emptying it in August, My neighbour has same pool but with sand filter and his pool his clear clear. We do the same things same days. Any one else have issues with those filters? I have cleaned the cartridge 3 times since June 1. It is a new cartridge.

Thank you

Hey guys, I don’t post much but have learned SO much on this site. It’s allowed me to take care of and repair my pool since it was new 8 years ago.

Ok, Jandy LXi heater fires up and then shuts off to cool down after reading a High Limit error. There are other threads on this but I can’t seem to find the answer other than a faulty sensor. I took out the 135 and left the 155 in and it was fine - stayed on. Did the opposite and the 135 tripped and it shut down. So this leads me to believe there’s some fault with that sensor? It’s a closed circuit as I tested it with a meter. They both LOOK good - no corrosion. I cleaned out some small leaves and stuff in the heater and that didn’t help. I’m pretty sure I have adequate flow. Could it be anything else?? (That’s the question that never seems to get answers). Thanks
Jay

Hi all,

Some long backstory...

Our pool was finished in Jan 2021. Originally I wanted to go with a Robotic cleaner (we previously had a booster P3900 in our first pool and I wasn't super impressed).

Since owning our PB450 + polaris quattro sport I've had to fix both a couple different times. The PB450 had one gasket seal fail already, and also had a leak at the hose portion that connects to the pool plumbing.
The polaris quattro sport Had a gear box grind out and I replaced that not too long ago. It's worth adding that this leak(video for the curious) occurred during a historical Feb 2022 Texas weather event and drained nearly half my pool while I was asleep.

Cleaning wise it's always done an alright job when it's not stuck on my drain.

I went out today and the PB450 is leaking again, this time from somewhere else I can't really tell (Video for those curious). I am unsure if the pump is still under manufacturr/pool builder warranty but honestly I am getting sick of the unit.

This is compounded by the local warranty company I have to deal with is very difficult and unhelpful (Took nearly 2 months to fix the pump the first time and when they reconnected the pump it was done backwards).


So my question is what would you do if you were in my situation, buy a robotic cleaner and be done with the booster setup? Or continue to repair the pump (Assuming it's under warranty)?

My hopes with a robotic cleaner is to finally get away from my cleaner getting stuck on drains + tangling itself with the booster hose. I was looking at the Polaris Freedom unless there is a better option to consider.
One thing I liked about the Quattro sport is I was able to take it apart and repair it myself. But I am not sure that's worth the headache that I have dealt with so far.

Thanks for the advice/ any follow up commiseration

Would anyone happen to know what this fitting/union is called or know a part number by any chance? I just had mine split on me last night and couldn't find a replacement online anywhere. Photo's attached. Thank you

Removed thread

Hello all, first time poster here. I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 that I'm having trouble with. I was getting error code 170 so I called my local pool service company out to do a system check. They diagnosed my problem as a front board issue but could not get another board as it has been discontinued by Jandy. So they recommended a complete new system. I did some internet searching and found a new board, so I installed it myself and guess what? Same error code 170. Where do I go next? Replace the back board?
Thanks for your help,
Chuck

We have the Hayward OnCommand and Hayward VS pump. We started getting a communications error & I could not get it resolved quick enough before being gone from home so I moved my water feature pump (non-variable speed) to the pool filter & chlorinator to turn the water over.

Is there a way to disable the VS in the system & just set a start/stop time on this other pump? Right now it’s on Aux1, but was wondering if I could move it connectivity wise to the VS spot in the controller but disable the VS altogether until I get that resolved. I didn’t see any timer options for Aux1.

Any suggestions or ideas? Also need to figure out my comm issue, which has lead me to a keypad or main board issue.

Hello,

Some backstory: I've been battling an issue with brownish colored spots showing up on bottom of pool. At first I thought it was yellow algae but then reading more about it it didn't meet all the criteria. It grows all over including areas in the sun, not on the walls, and different overnight tests I did never showed a chlorine loss over 1.

Well, I stopped cleaning for like a week and the walls started to get gunk on them. This was mainly on the corners where the floor and wall meet. I was trying to maintain chlorine but there was a moment where chlorine dropped to around 2, maybe lower, at a CYA level of 30 (I only used the liquid drop test in this moment so don't have exact measurement). So it is completely possible it was an unrelated algae bloom but could also be that since I wasn't cleaning regularly it allowed the yellow to spread? When slamming that away I decided to just try slamming for the brown spots in case they are algae.

Back to my question: Right away the wall gunk was resolved but I still have brown spots 2 weeks later. There's maybe a slight improvement in the amount but that could also just be from the daily brushing and vacuuming. My understanding is that visible algae being gone is one of the requirements to stop the SLAM but yellow algae requires a higher level of shock for 24 hours.

Should the yellow algae be gone during the normal SLAM process prior to the 24 hour shock? Or should I complete all the steps except the visible algae part and then do the 24 hour shock?

I am setting up a schedule for my variable speed, Jandy epump. The variable speed pump does not show up in the my devices list on the opening page of the non-web interface. When my schedule starts the variable speed pump, it does not show up on the start page as anything operating.

Am I missing something?

Hi all! We’ll be starting out in ground pool and attached spa build in late fall. I’m just starting to second guess the cost and additional maintenance of an attached spa in comparison to its use. For those of you that have a similar setup, are there any regrets? Is it worth the additional cost? The last thing I want to do is invest a bunch of money into something that will go untouched and then have to deal with maintenance on top of that. Thank you in advance for any feedback.

My name is Ken. I am a relatively new pool owner. I feel like a fish out of water when it comes to issues with my pool. I will be glad to get hear any suggestions and ideas when I have a problem. Knowledge is power and I am pretty powerless when it comes to my pool.

Hello All,
I had to fly overseas due very sick nephew. Water was perfect before I left. I checked on the pool on a camera and tge brand New Polaris with 4 wheels was moving, but a few days ago it seemed like water level was lower and Polaris was stopped. I came back home last night. Water was low to the point no water visible In summer. It was almost 100 degrees. Pump was running but water was moving, so I refilled the pool and tried to turn it on…it makes priming sound but no water starts coming, so I turned it off. Is there anything I can do ? I have been waiting for a pool company to open a new route/get enough employees/customers which they were supposed to do few months ago. They said they would start Aug 1, it is August 8. Is there a lesk or did tge Water just evaporate and did we destroy the system while we had to leave due to family emergency overseas ? Thank you so much. Katarina

Hello. This is the first pool I have ever owned and I am very confused. I live in DE and have a new 22k gallon, rectangle shape, salt water pool with 56sq sun shelf.

My first major issue is a skimmer that I believe was not installed properly. I have a video my SIL took that I would love to share if someone would be willing to give their opinion. It will only let me add a photo to this.

I moved into a new home a little over a year ago. O how little I knew of what I was getting myself into. 1990 home with a large concrete pool with a deep end, when we purchased it was a beautiful blue, I have no idea how the old owner could have kept it up. This summer I have just finished swapping a 30 year old heater, new electrical, auto timer installed, new gas piping completed, and finally switched an undersized cartridge filter system, a Tropic Flo metal canister that drove me nuts constantly cleaning it, for a sand filter that I put glass in. Finally here I am with the right equipment, I gotta master the chemistry. I have lurked here prior but saw the discount on the testing kit so I became a supporter and am going to learn the TFP ways!

Thank you for the add

We just moved into a big house in south central Kansas and it has a 34’x17’ in-ground pool. I worked at a pool during my youth but must have been helping with swim lessons during the chem/clean time. Time to learn now. I’m planning to purchase a Taylor test kit and a battery-powered manual vac. Previous owner left a lot of chems behind and had the pump replaced before our purchase of the home, so pretty well set there.

Thankful for this community, hope to meet and talk soon!

Has there been any upgrades/modifications to the Hayward AquaRite SWG system in the last 12 years? I have to replace the Thermistor 3-4 times a summer. I was curious if Hayward has fixed this issue with newer generation units. It's getting time to replace my T-Cell so thought about replacing the whole unit, but only if there's a benefit to doing so (cracked Thermistor issues etc).

My unit looks like this and was installed 12+ years ago.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get a large, fast frog out of the pool? It’s hanging out at the bottom of the deep end, and it’s really fast! And bigger than any other frog I’ve had to dig out. I need to get the vacuum going