Hi,

This is my first post to this forum. Amazing information here. Thanks to all. Wish I have found about this site / forum long ago.

Inground pool - pebble sheen - approx 10900 gallons rectangular pool.

I am having issues with my Clearwater Zodiac LM2-24 SWG unit. The output control button to increase the salt production does not seem to work. When this button is pressed, the LED's on the panel should go up. Mine is staying put on the first one and is lit amber in color. However when the super chlorinate button is pressed, all the led's about 5 of them go green and a separate super chlorinate led is also. Green. The Add Salt light - used to be on but it is no longer since I have added salt to bring up the salt level. My reading from the Aquatest Salt test strip shows 4070ppm. The manufacturer recommends 4000ppm.

I just assumed that the cell has gone bad (has been used 4 years) and replaced the cell. However the problem remains. Unable to get the "output chlorine" button to work and light up the LED's.

I also have FC problems (Duh) which I am also trying to fix. FC is about 1-2ppm and TA is about 150ppm. PH is about 7.6 - all using a generic test kit from Leslie's. I am also planning on getting TF100 - testkit very soon. Water is clear but I suspect some algae with brown spots at different locations on the pool.

Any insights to my problem is much appreciated. By the way a call to Zodiac tech support recommended that I replace the cell as they suspected that it is faulty. Now after spending 500bucks I am still stuck with the problem.

ifmx4ever

Welcome to TFP!

Some pictures of the brown spots will help us diagnose - sounds like it could be organic or metal staining. Sorry I can't help with the SWG issues...

Where in Arizona are you located?

Have to take the pictures. Will do in about a couple of days. Will be out of town for the long weekend. Live in Chandler AZ.

Hi ifmx4ever. I have an lm2 unit as well with the exact same symptoms. It does however work intermittently. We had the cell replaced under our home warranty and as with you it did not fix the problem. I took the unit apart and noticed that water had been leaking through a crack in the top of the unit causing corrosion on the contol board electronics. I have a new board in hand and plan on replacing tomorrow. I expect this to fix the problem but will let you know how it goes.

-Peter

the lm's have only 2 pcb's, a control pcb which is located under to top label and the power pcb which is located on the aluminum back plate which controls all the internal power and the power to the cell. I would suspect the power pcb has gone as you have already replaced the cell and it is still faulty.

Did anyone ever find the solution to this? I have the exact same problem - amber chlorine output led, cant adjust output level unless i use the 'superchlorinate' setting (which I've been told damages the cell if used too often). I just replaced the salt cell and it had been working fine, so i dont think its the cell. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!


-Ryan

more than likely it will be the control pcb, which is found under the top label.

I'm having the same problem with the LM2-40 unit and didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars chasing it down.
I was considering a new cell as well, but since it works in super chlorinate mode, I reasoned that it is still functioning (enough) and shouldn't be the culprit.
Malcomb5325 suggested the power pcb (a year ago) and now suggests the control pcb...well, which should it really be?
If you changed both boards and the cell, you could have just purchased a newer system with a warranty.
Frustrating stuff...

Update...I replaced the control board and everything is working again.
When the cell finally bites it, I think I'm going to consider replacing the system.