OK ... I've read all about closing a IG gunite pool and am still confused. This 15x30 IG gunite pool (my daughter's) will not really be "closed;" it simply will not be usedf for 6 months due to maxium low water temp in Yuma (mid-40s night - daytime temp 70+). Here is my plan:

1. Clean
2. Clear plastic sheet over pool to keep leaves out
3. Maintain normal (3+) FC
4. Maintain normal pH (7.4)
5. Run pump 2 hours per day.

Comments on my plan and any help would be appreciated (shock? alage? continue with chlorine tabs? other chemicals? etc. etc,etc.)

Thanks.

No on the chlorine tabs, unless you know your CYA level and it's low. Perhaps the most common problem here is excessive CYA -"overstabilized" water - which limits the chlorine activity which then leads to algae, which then requires enormous quantities of bleach and/or a partial drain to clear the pool.

If you get a lot of leaves then a cover may be worth it. If you get a lot of wind, the cover may end up bunched at the downwind end and the pool will still get full of leaves. I don't get a lot of leaves in my pool, so I don't bother covering it. It only takes a few minutes to vacuum when there's more than I feel like snagging with the skimmer.

Jasonlion,

Wonder if you could help me reference above subject?

I pretty much do the same as your plan. I have an electric mostly opaque automatic cover so the pool is covered and there is a pool cover pump on it where I pump winter rains into the pool for overflow to dilute the water (you may or may not want to do that -- depends on your chemistry levels and if there is anything like CH or salt level that you want to lower). Note that with the pool unheated and the air temp dropping, the water will get cold and that will significantly lower your chlorine consumption if the pool doesn't get a lot of sun. In my covered pool, I only need to add chlorine about once every two weeks in the winter. I reduce the pump runtime to 4 hours at a slow speed -- equivalent to 2 hours for a single-speed pump.