For the titrations it will not be a problem. You might have some problems with the pH test (perhaps this is why so many people complain that they cannot differentiate the colors.)
I prefer using a northern blue sky for that test and the CYA test ia really best done outside in open shade.
It is next to impossible to get acuurate readings from a borate test strip in anything but daylight BTW. Even a Daylight bulb with a high CRI does not really help.

CF lights do not have a very good CRI so they are not good for any tests that require color matching.

Thank you!

I am knew to the forums and this is my first post.

As I have been reading thru the threads- I was not looking forward to figuring out what ALL of the abbreviations meant.
...........and I was not going to reply to posts JUST to ask "What does X@#* mean?".

This is a great thread to keep ON TOP for all newbies!

I attached it as a Word document that I will print and keep with my pool supplies/printouts.

In the upper right of every page is a link to Pool School. Click on it and read everything in there at least twice. One of the topics in pool school is Definitions and Abbreviations
pool-school/swimming_pool_definitions_abbreviations

Once you have read thorugh Pool School a couple of times you should be pretty much "up to speed" on what we are talking about in the forum and will have a good basic understanding on how to care for your own pool!
After reading Pool School you might want to check out some of the advanced topics listed at the end or you might want to post questions in the forum for clarifications on anything you don't understand.

CYA instructions revised again ("to the mark") and a new file posted in the original note.
--paulr

You can order a 7/14 mixing bottle and smaller view tube from taylor tech.

Thankyou!! This is exactly what I was going to start asking questions about....Now I think I'll only have about 50 questions left to ask before the pool is up and running.

Instructions revised to recommend continuous swirling for titration tests (FAS-DPD, TA, CH).
--paulr

Now this makes me want to get one of those magnetic stirrers!

You won't regret it!

I've been searching for this but didn't find an answer. On the Water Testing Instructions on One Page for a CYA test it has, "3) Shake about 30 sec; let stand 2-3 minutes; briefly shake again." However the TF-100 instructions say, "1. Fill the Red-capped CYA mixing bottle to the bottom line with pool water. Now, fill the bottle to the top line with R-0013. Mix, then wait at least 30 seconds. Shake once more." Which way is correct?

They are both correct. The instructions on the one page instructions are slightly more reliable in unusual situations. The TF100 instructions will work just as well except in some rare cases (for example very cold pool water).

I have a question about the CYA test. It's a very subjective visual test, and my eyes aren't all that great to begin with, so... what exactly does "until the black dot just disappears" mean? When I do the test, there are usually bubbles that form each time I add a few drops of the solution, and I figure I have to wait for them to clear first to see the dot since they obscure my view. And also, sometimes the immediate result after adding a few drops is that the black dot disappears for a second or two, but then reappears. So, do I count that as the point where it "just disappears," or since it reappeared within seconds, do I keep going until it stays completely invisible?

You want to add as little liquid as possible and still have the black dot remain invisible after several seconds.

I aim the mixing tube nozzle at the side of the view tube, so the additional liquid runs down the side. Minimizes the air bubbles.

If you can tell that the dot is still there after a couple seconds, or after you wiggle the tube a little, then it's still visible and you need to add a little more to the view tube.
--paulr

OK. Thanks for the clarification and tips, you guys. Much appreciated!

Jason, this would be a great addition to pool school since PaulR worked so hard on it since it seams you guys(and Gals) have agreed on the proper procedures. I know it helped me alot. Thanks PaulR for taking the time to write it up!!!!

Removed alternate sample size instructions for FAS-DPD and TA (almost never needed).
Removed "20-30 sec" instructions for CH (waterbear never explained why he said this, and experimentation doesn't show a consistent difference).
Added some guidelines when it might be worthwhile using the alternate sample size for CH test.
--paulr

I just ordered the TF-100 kit and have not received or used anything but the test strips so far, so excuse my ignorance if this is an obvious question. I noticed on your PDF and the first post there are no instructions for a pH test. I also thought it might be helpful to include along with the abbreviations the the Trouble Free Pools recommended chemical levels (unless of course these are already included with the kit) Great post, I look forward to using it throughout the year!

Instructions for pH are included with OTO chlorine, in the first block of instructions.

Level recommendations vary depending on the circumstances; there are too many variations to include easily. (CH target depends on pool surface; CYA depends on whether you have a SWG, and your latitude; FC depends on your CYA and whether you have a SWG; and so on.) I suggest when you've worked out your own target levels, just write them in yourself.
--paulr

(And thanks!)