New to Site - is the BBB method GOOD

Are you thinking of BBB as something fundamentally different than what is described here on TFP? Just wondering, from the tone of your question.

The two approaches certainly seem very closely related (speaking as someone who did some reading on other forums before settling down here for the most part). The emphasis is on accurate testing, knowing and understanding what is going on in your pool, and adding only what is needed. Many (not all) of the things that may need to be added are chemicals readily available at places other than pool stores (e.g. bleach, borax, baking soda).
 
It works perfectly, bit it isn't magic. It requires an apt student in you, and a desire to be in control of your pool rather than at the mercy of pool store salespeople.
 
Awesome, thanks all for the information. I am going to do the BBB. First, I am going to get a good testing kit and understand that I have to keep chemicals balanced. Thanks to you all I know that I have to do my homework and understand what is going on. Have a great 4th of July.
 
On the test kit, I have really liked the TF100. I purchased the speed stir right away which helped in testing. This year I added the sample sizer measuring tool, It should be here soon. I add a little bit each year to my pool Stuff to make things easier without breaking the budget all at once. The BBB method is simple when you get the hang of it. I created a chart from excel that I fill out with my testing results and what I have added which has helped allot to see the changes in the chemistry. With the chart and help from these forums I have a great, safe water with out spending allot on chemicals that are not needed. I use the liquid chlorine that I buy at Wal-mart then switch to liquid bleach from the laundry aisle when my local store stops selling the pool stuff (Wal-mart stocks the pool aisle during spring and summer). The people here are quick to answer and help, I have become a novice to in my opinion pretty good at pool chemistry in a fairly short time.
 
May I ask what you have been doing with your Pool for the last year since you've been a member and, how's that working out for you?

 

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Thanks Tim for the information. Great idea on using the excel sheet. I will start this.

Casey I was going to a local pool store (just down the street from me) they would always test for me. I would do everything they said not really understanding what was going on. This year when I opened the pool after winter, I got some white powdery stuff at the bottom of the pool. The pool store had me "try" this and that and the stuff would not go away, I spent a lot of money to still see the white stuff remain at the bottom of the pool. So I drained the pool, scrubbed it and am going to refill, this time I will do it right and do the testing. I have found this site, which has told me more than I ever got from the pool store staff. The problem with the pool was really mine for not doing the proper home work for the pool.
 
Pool School is where it's at. Get the TF100 and be on your way to a TFP. :cool:
 
I am only on week 4 but I must say that this site and the slam the members recommended helped me a bunch. I started with a green pool and I can't imagine what would have happened if I was relying on the pool store and their biogaurd chemicals .I don't think I would have been able to afford it. Now that my pool is clean and clear, I am adding about 11 oz's of chlorine every 2 days and learning to do the testing myself.

I mentioned this site on another unrelated forum I frequent, and one guy said this site and its method caused his liner to harden, brittle, and wear out prematurely. I don't know his specifics or why he feels that unless maybe the cya/FC chart this site recommends calls for higher FC levels than what is needed. I would not know as I'm new to pools. So far my well water is looking clean and clear and its easy on my pockets.
 
I mentioned this site on another unrelated forum I frequent, and one guy said this site and its method caused his liner to harden, brittle, and wear out prematurely. I don't know his specifics or why he feels that unless maybe the cya/FC chart this site recommends calls for higher FC levels than what is needed. I would not know as I'm new to pools. So far my well water is looking clean and clear and its easy on my pockets.

Apparently he didn't report this on this site, but as for damage to vinyl it's low pH that is the worst for it so maybe he was adding acid dumping in one place instead of what we recommend which is adding it slowly over a return flow with the pump running and then brushing the side and bottom of the pool to ensure thorough mixing. Some people are impatient but with acid you shouldn't be because it's denser than water until mixed so if you just dump it in then it can pool at the bottom and cause problems, particularly to vinyl pools. See this post for more detailed info on how low pH affects some vinyl liners, especially those that use more calcium carbonate fillers (they may need more saturation with calcium carbonate so would be an exception where calcium would be needed in a vinyl pool).

There are many, many, many pool owners on this site with vinyl pools who don't experience any problems, but with concentrated chemicals one needs to be careful. If one had a Trichlor puck sitting on the bottom that would also be a problem so it's not related to using chlorinating liquid or bleach (except that using these often requires adding acid, so again if one doesn't add acid properly then that can be a problem).

As for chlorine itself, when chlorinating liquid or bleach is diluted into the water, it produces the same identical chlorine as from other products. However, it's important to have Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in the water to moderate chlorine's strength. If someone were to use bleach by itself with no CYA in the water, then that would be a much higher active chlorine level. It still would be unlikely to cause the vinyl to become brittle, but it would fade organic medium blue color much faster (see this link).
 
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