Polaris 280 - Pressure Relief Valve

What was the resolution to this issue?! I have the same problem. Back-up valve is fine, no line restrictions, 480 cleaner dismantled and reassembled; all parts in perfect working order. New pressure relief valve blasts water whenever booster pump is on, unless there is nothing at all connected to it. It blasts water even when the cleaner and back-up pump are removed and only the feed line to the cleaner is attached (feed line and swivel connectors are clear and operating). This has to be a faulty relief valve, right? Calling Polaris got me someone who understood this system much less than I do.
 
Did either of you ever resolve this problem ? I'm having the same issue as described in here. I'm going to replace the pressure relief valve tomorrow and hope that's the problem, but based on what I've read here I'm not very confident.
 
This is an interesting thread and seems to be a common problem. I too have just moved into a house with this polaris model cleaner. The hose was disconnected, floating, and cleaner at the deep end just sitting there. When I connect the hose, turn the pump on, and watch, the hose pops out of the wall coupling within about 15 seconds...too much pressure. Further investigation shows water spewing from the Polaris unit until the house pops off. I dont know if a restrictor is present, and the pressure relief valve may be stuck closed...it wont unscrew by hand. There is a lot of pressure comming out the wall port...

Is a restrictor usually required?
Is the pressure relief a backup or is it a bleeder that is open usually?
Is there a quick disconnect at the Polaris to check the hose is not clogged?
What is the recommended pressure at the port? The pump looks to be the same size as the pools primary filter.

I used to have a Ray-Vac and loved it for years on my previous pool. I see they are now discontinued...how sad. Didnt need a booster pump.

Thanks for a reply.
 
OK, got to it this morning and its working like a champ. The main problem was the pressure valve( which was new). The design has no o-ring between the pressure release cap holder (white hex cap that holds the black release piece) and even though it was tight from the factory out of the water, in the water, with the pressure boosted, the extra give in the threads gives it enough of a gap to loose water pressure. It seems as if its coming out of the black cap but it really isn't. What fixed it was simply running the polaris, and then reaching in and tightening the white hex cap . Again, this needs to be done while its running under pressure and you also want to make sure common sense so you don't snap the hole valve off.

Hope this helps out some people in the same situation as me. Post it up if it worked for you!
 
HarryH3 said:
The valve should always be screwed all the way in. It is designed to work as a pressure relief and should only let water out the side of the fitting when the pressure in the line exceeds the spring pressure. It's there to prevent excess pressure from damaging the internal workings of the Polaris.

It's possible that there is a clog inside the Polaris, but if your inlet screen (inside the regulator fitting at the wall) is OK, then nothing should have been able to get past it. It's a very fine screen.

Another thought is that since the Polaris is plumbed in parallel with the main pool pump, is there a chance that one of the jets or other returns to the pool is clogged? That would increase the feed pressure to the Polaris pump.
Just wondering, where exactly should it allow the water to come out when pressure is too hight, mine is letting out water in exactly one spot exactly opposide the wall of the pool between the white valve that tightens the blue/black valve with the entire pressure relief unit. should the water come out there or from the colored cap (blue/black)?
 
giz said:
It should come out of the colored cap when it gets too much pressure. If it's coming out of the side of the nut you tighten, then it needs to be even tighter.
I spoke to Polaris and was told different, the water should come out where the white hex cap screws around the black/blue valve, I was told there is no opening of any kind in there so water can only come out from the cap. It actually makes sense because the hole in the valve in on the side of the threaded joint.
 
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