Getting fed up with this high PH pool

[SnoPoolAngel]

I added stuff to lower my PH but the next day its back to 8.2. My TA was fine at 80 but now that's down to 60. I also been fighting a green algae pool for a month. But I can't do anything about it until I get my PH in check. I've wasted so much money fighting the green and to get my PH normal level and stay there. My CYA level is 31.

I need the pool clear by the 4th of July. But I don't see it happening. So my question is what causes the PH to go up in the first place and what can I do to keep it down so I can shock it clear. Side not its been raining in my area for a week non stop and continue to rain all this week too. Will that affect the water?

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!

As you do not have a plaster pool, the most common thing to raise pH is aeration. Waterfalls, fountains, kids splashing or anything that churns the water up. Heck, even return jets turned up will cause ripples on the surface and raise pH.

What are you using to bring it down? We generally recommend muratic acid from Lowes or Home Depot. Using Pool Math (link at the top of the page) you can calculate how much to bring it down to where you want almost immediately.

From your description of wanting to "shock" the algae away I think you are listening to the pool store employees and spending way too much money. Muratic acid and bleach will keep that pool clear for a lot less money than most people spend at the pool store.

Let us know and we can show you how we would recommend taking care of that pool.

 

[NeedMoreSun]

Raining for a week non-stop creates aeration and pushes Ph up as well.

 

[SnoPoolAngel]

Welcome to TFP!

As you do not have a plaster pool, the most common thing to raise pH is aeration. Waterfalls, fountains, kids splashing or anything that churns the water up. Heck, even return jets turned up will cause ripples on the surface and raise pH.

What are you using to bring it down? We generally recommend muratic acid from Lowes or Home Depot. Using Pool Math (link at the top of the page) you can calculate how much to bring it down to where you want almost immediately.

From your description of wanting to "shock" the algae away I think you are listening to the pool store employees and spending way too much money. Muratic acid and bleach will keep that pool clear for a lot less money than most people spend at the pool store.

Let us know and we can show you how we would recommend taking care of that pool.

I been using HTH PH minus to lower my PH. If I add the Muratic acid will my PH go back up overnight it's done with the PH minus? Or do I have to keep adding it until it stays stable? Can I fight the algae before getting PH stable or it won't be as effective?

 

[Richard320]

The acid you've been adding (It's dry acid, but it's still acid) is obviously doing something because TA is going down. If those readings are correct, your pH should be stabilizing, but it's not. What else have you been adding? High chlorine levels can interfere with pH drop tests and bleach or react with test strips.

So what all have you been adding, and how have you been testing?

 

[SnoPoolAngel]

I haven't added anything since adding the ph minus. Two days before that I added 3qt of liquid chlorine. I have 5-way tester. Not the greatest since it only tests PH, TA, and CH. I know it's not wise but I had my local pool store test the water so I could get my FC and CYA. Readings. But when she tested my water my PH was 7.8 and my TA was 152. But when I test it PH is high and TA is low.

 

[tim5055]

Well, we teach to get the pH down to 7.2 and conduct what we call a SLAM. It is VERY different from what pool stores teach. You can see the instructions here: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

The key point is you need your own accurate test kit that will measure chlorine levels above 10. The limitation on most it's is either 5 or 10. The only ones that go,this high use a FAS-DPD chlorine test. The one I would recommend is the TF100 and if you are fighting algae get the XL option to add additional tests you will be conducting during the fight. See it here: TFTestkits.net

But circling back around, pH tends to rise in all pools. It's just their nature. The TA is what moderates the speed of pH rise. Dropping from 80 to 60 may slow the rise some.

 

[cowboycasey]

I haven't added anything since adding the ph minus. Two days before that I added 3qt of liquid chlorine. I have 5-way tester. Not the greatest since it only tests PH, TA, and CH. I know it's not wise but I had my local pool store test the water so I could get my FC and CYA. Readings. But when she tested my water my PH was 7.8 and my TA was 152. But when I test it PH is high and TA is low.

and now you see the problem... sorry to say but I bet your CYA is nowhere near 30 if the "pool store" tested it.. you really need and deserve a good test kit TFTestkits.net you should get the XL option and the speed stir is so nice to have but not required... this will allow you to take control of your pool...

 

[SnoPoolAngel]

I got my test kit today. Finally able to test my water properly.

PH. 8.4 (added acid an hour or so ago. Down to 7.8)
FC - 4
TA - 80
CYA 30

Im still fighting my algae. It was clear yesterday with all the algae on the bottom. I wanted to vaccum it out but my dad said to brush it and get it all mixed up. So when we get the levels in check we can add the chlorine to kill it. So now it's no longer clear and can't even see the bottom. I shouldn't of listened to him I should of just vaccum to waste like I wanted to.

 

[kimkats]

Okay here we go! It is SLAM time! Here is a link to it

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

The first thing you do is get your PH down to 7.2. Once you start the SLAM do NOT test PH again until the SLAM is done.

Find your best price for bleach-Walmart=8.25% , Pool Store=11% find the place that is the easiest for you to get to and has large amounts of bleach with CURRENT dates!

Kim