Help! Pump problems, What should I do?

[ytulip]

I have a Jandy Stealth Series Pump SHPF 3HP which just quit working a few days ago, basically it would trip the breaker for some reasons, if I reset the breakers and try it again, it would try a few seconds (I can hear some noises) then trip the breaker again. First thing I tried was to check the run/starting capacitor with a multimeter, the capacitor value looks to be alright, ~50 uF. Then I removed the motor from the pump body, and found that I can turn the impeller by hand, so it's not stuck or anything. What should I check next? Try a new capacitor anyway? Or just replace the entire motor? Any suggestions?

Thank you for any advice!

 

[Casey]

Welcome to TFP.

Someone should be around shortly to help you with your pump.

 

[thepoolman]

A bad capacitor usually causes a loud humming noise. Is that what you are hearing?

 

[mgarf33]

I would first test input voltage in and out of the breaker, and if it's a 2 pole, each leg to ground. If you have a good inrush current amp clamp also test that. Then the motor, and centrifugal switch, but Im not sure of your access to the tools needed.

When you tested the capacitor, are you sure your meter isn't reading nF?
Unless your breaker is weak, or undersized, it would not typically trip before the internal OL, due to a failed capacitor.
Remember, the motor is protected by the OL, the circuit is protected by the breaker.

Have you tried turning the motor shaft? I know you said the impeller spun freely.

If you need to parts change, try replacing the breaker first.

 

[Thimble]

Is the breaker GFI ? Those things can really be persnickety.

 

[ytulip]

A bad capacitor usually causes a loud humming noise. Is that what you are hearing?

Im not sure if it sounded loud to me, so it may not be the capacitor...

 

[ytulip]

I would first test input voltage in and out of the breaker, and if it's a 2 pole, each leg to ground. If you have a good inrush current amp clamp also test that. Then the motor, and centrifugal switch, but Im not sure of your access to the tools needed.

When you tested the capacitor, are you sure your meter isn't reading nF?
Unless your breaker is weak, or undersized, it would not typically trip before the internal OL, due to a failed capacitor.
Remember, the motor is protected by the OL, the circuit is protected by the breaker.

Have you tried turning the motor shaft? I know you said the impeller spun freely.

If you need to parts change, try replacing the breaker first.

That sounds like a lot of things to check, can I do these with a multimeter, that's the only instrument I got Yes, the meter reads uF. No, didn't try turning the motor shaft.

Thanks a lot for your suggestions, I will try to see if I can get all of that checked out, appreciate it!!

 

[ytulip]

Not sure how to post pictures here, the control panel has a GFC next to the breaker...

 

[ytulip]

Update! I suspected it was the capacitor since I decided to measure the resistance of the capacitor and found the meter read ~20Mega Ohm, so I went ahead and ordered a new capacitor, and it arrived today. After replaciing the capacitor with the new one, it looked like that the pump actually worked a few seconds before the breaker got tripped again. When I say it worked, I mean I see the water started running a bit I also checked that the motor shaft actually turned freely.

Attached are the pictures of the breaker panel that got tripped. There is a GFI next to the breaker. Do I want to try replacing the breaker?

Thanks so much for any suggestions!

I have a Jandy Stealth Series Pump SHPF 3HP which just quit working a few days ago, basically it would trip the breaker for some reasons, if I reset the breakers and try it again, it would try a few seconds (I can hear some noises) then trip the breaker again. First thing I tried was to check the run/starting capacitor with a multimeter, the capacitor value looks to be alright, ~50 uF. Then I removed the motor from the pump body, and found that I can turn the impeller by hand, so it's not stuck or anything. What should I check next? Try a new capacitor anyway? Or just replace the entire motor? Any suggestions?

Thank you for any advice!

 

[morzh]

Your breaker is likely a GFI, if it trips it and GFI is OK then it means the motor developed electrical insulation leakage and might need replacment, unless you are skilled in disassembling, cleaning and testing el. motors.

Test GFI just in case, they are cheap compared to motors.

 

[cowboycasey]

is it just my screen, that does not look like a GFCI breaker... is there a push to test white button on it??

 

[ytulip]

Thanks! How do I test the GFI? I don't see any reset or test button on it.

Your breaker is likely a GFI, if it trips it and GFI is OK then it means the motor developed electrical insulation leakage and might need replacment, unless you are skilled in disassembling, cleaning and testing el. motors.

Test GFI just in case, they are cheap compared to motors.

- - - Updated - - -

No, there is no test or reset button on it. It was labelled as GFI, not GFCI.

is it just my screen, that does not look like a GFCI breaker... is there a push to test white button on it??

 

[morzh]

GFI a d GFCI are more or less the same, both compare the out and return currents and interrupt the circuit if unequal.
By testing I mean, replace it. Self test is, like, "sir, did you commit this murder?" - "No" - "Ok, yoou are hereby declared innocent".

 

[morzh]

What I didn't quite get is, does it trip those non-GFI ones ir the GFI? And why the two non GFI are labelled "Pump" and what does the GFI one control?

 

[ytulip]

Okay, got you I'll give it a try...

GFI a d GFCI are more or less the same, both compare the out and return currents and interrupt the circuit if unequal.
By testing I mean, replace it. Self test is, like, "sir, did you commit this murder?" - "No" - "Ok, yoou are hereby declared innocent".

- - - Updated - - -

it's the non-GFI ones that were tripped. I have no idea what the GFI one controls. But they are on the same control panel which is for the pool pump etc only.

What I didn't quite get is, does it trip those non-GFI ones ir the GFI? And why the two non GFI are labelled "Pump" and what does the GFI one control?

 

[morzh]

If the non-GFI is tripped that may just mean your motor developed a shorted turn. If it is a 110V motor, and if it is pluggable, you can just pkug it elsewhere and see if it is still the case, but usually the motor is bad. In case of GFI tripping it developed leakage, so it may work as long as the water is not flowing, in case of tripping the regular one it won't work at all as there is a turn short.
without the cap it won't even start so if it does and then trips, thecwinding is likely bad.

 

[ytulip]

Thank you! So most likely, I'll need a new motor? The electrical connections are hardwired in some plastic conduit, don't know how to unplug it.

If the non-GFI is tripped that may just mean your motor developed a shorted turn. If it is a 110V motor, and if it is pluggable, you can just pkug it elsewhere and see if it is still the case, but usually the motor is bad. In case of GFI tripping it developed leakage, so it may work as long as the water is not flowing, in case of tripping the regular one it won't work at all as there is a turn short.
without the cap it won't even start so if it does and then trips, thecwinding is likely bad.

 

[mgarf33]

I wouldn't scrap a 3hp motor unless I knew it was bad.
It could be a chaffed wire under the terminal housing, a shorted protector, run cap terminals touching cover, etc...
I would have a professional look at the motor first.

 

[440dodge440]

The breaker labeled GFI does not appear to be a GFI breaker- it is probably the breaker for a GFI outlet located in the equipment pad area.

 

[morzh]

I agree, does not look GFI, GFI has a tab inside the lever which is visible.
The motor is worth checking if it can be looked at by someone knowledgeable and quick as the delay might cost you more than the savings from motor.


As for symptoms, from the description it is not clear if the motor is stuck and makes noises, or ot tries to rotate and then trips the breaker.

In the former case I woud try to see if the shaft is stuck, lubricate and try again (happened to me once), in the latter - likely a turn short, toss it, buy new.