Help! Green pool and high CYA levels

Jun 26, 2015
14
Texas
Can someone please help us. We have had a green and murky pool for about 3 wks. The pool store has sold us a ton of chemicals. Bottom line is that my husband shocked the pool 4 days ago with dichlor. We left town for a couple of days knowing that we were going to have to do something about the algae when we came back. After reading your forums and getting a CYA reading we drained 1/3 of the water yesterday and this morning I put 2 gallons of Clorox bleach in. Prior to the drainage our CYA was off the charts at 150. We just took more water and had it tested and it came back as CYA 150, FC 15, PH 8.1. The pool store tried to sell us more algaecide and were not concerned about the CYA level. What I don't understand is why the CYA has not gone down any with the drainage of the water.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Simple answer ... pool store testing is horrendous, especially with CYA. Most reliable test only go up to 100ppm, so anything above that is a guess.

If you want to take control of the pool, you need to invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits and post up a full set of numbers. Likely your CYA is truly still too high and you need to replace more water to get it reasonable. Then you will need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to eradicate the algae.
 
Ok, we have a Leslie's kit. I am unfamiliar with what FAS/DPD means. The chlorine is really high according to the kit. I'm not sure if we have the right kit though. We will drain more this evening and refill. Should we be testing the ph after the refill? If it's off and we need to add chemicals to get it in balance won't those chemicals continue to get diluted with the replacement of water? Should we wait until the CYA comes down to adjust the ph?
 
Yeah, Leslie's never has the right kit and usually tells people the one you bought is the same thing. Good that you order it, that gives you the equivalent of the K-2006. :goodjob:

I would recommend you call and add some CYA reagent refill as well, since you are likely to run out of it pretty quickly.

So, at this point you need to replace a lot of water still to get your CYA under control. Not much point in doing anything else until the CYA is reasonable.

Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 

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Hello and welcome again to TFP. :) If your CYA is over 100, then the only alternative is to do a partial drain. That's the only way to reduce CYA. I have no idea what type of pool you have (in-ground/above-ground, etc), but typically we never do a total drain to avoid "floating" the pool from the ground or disrupting the liner. So figure on doing about a 50-60% drain if possible then re-check the CYA. That's probably your #1 priority right now while you wait for the FAS-DPD to arrive.

After you confirm your "new" CYA level, post that number. We will help you to achieve a perfect balance between FC (free chlorine) and CYA (stabilizer). If you look at the Chlorine/CYA chart below I my link you'll see what I mean. That's KEY to success, and that's why you need that FAS-DPD lit - to test chlorine at those levels. Don't worry about what the store-bought little glass tint shows for chlorine. You will almost always be above that - safely. :)

So after the drain, post your new CYA and we'll go from there. Sound okay?
 
Century is the motor, not the pump model. But you are close :)

Are you going to do another 50% drain to get the CYA down in range? Or SLAM and try to maintain the pool with the elevated CYA?
 

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