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Thread: right direction?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Geneva, IL
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    right direction?

    Hi Folks - Just getting started on the TFP Methods.. Would be great to get some insights to confirm I'm on the right path.

    6/12 Starting point with Leslie in store testing w/taylor kit

    FC 0
    TC 0
    CC 0
    PH 7.6
    ALK 120
    CH 180
    CYA 99
    Copper 0
    Iron 0
    TDS 1200
    Phosphates 500

    Pulled Frog mineral system and Frog bac PAQ Tricho, Added 2 lb lithium shock (had on hand) and switched to 8.25% chlorine, replaced about 6100 gals in two steps

    6/25 - K2006 testing at home (cool kit btw)

    FC 4
    CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
    PH 7.8
    ALK 220
    CH 120
    CYA 60

    Note that I tested the tap water used to add 6100 gals to the pool. its why my ALK went up and CH went down.
    Added 64 oz Muriatic Acid and 32 oz 8.25% chlorine (not at the same time)

    6/26 K2006 testing at home

    FC 7
    CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
    PH 7.2
    ALK 200
    CH 120
    CYA 60

    I've not completed a SLAM but don't really think I need to at this point. Water is crystal blue and has no measurable overnight FC loss. Water temp is keep at 88.

    Go forward plan:
    • run slide to increase PH to about 7.6 and then continue rounds of Muriatic Acid until I hit 80 ALK. Slide is increasing PH by about .2 with four hours of running.
    • add 8.25% chlorine as needed per pool math site
    • will not worry about CH (vinyl), TDS, Phosphates
    • let CYA go down over the season with splash and backwash, Monitor ALK when adding water back in as my Tap water ALK is 320.


    Only odd ball thing I can see is a purple color in my CH test instead of Red. A left over from my frog mineral system or from the added Tap water maybe? Adding 5 drops of titrant 1st didn't have a change on the purple color. Will likely have Leslie's test for metal next month just to rule out a possible unknown issue.

    Side question, should I be applying a CYA correction to total alkalinity as suggested in the Taylor kit manual? Assuming a target ph of 7.4 my CYA of 60..

    ALkc = ALKta - (CYA x CYAf)

    ALKc = 200 - (60 x .33)

    AlKc = 180.2

    Applying this correction would mean I need to reduce TA less than I would based on the measurement alone. Which is more correct? or at the end of the day does +/- 10 ppm TA really matter when you talking 80 or 90 TA (target)?

    Thanks in advance!
    Best Regards, Tom

    18,000 IG, vinyl, TA-60 Triton II Sand filter w/DE, WFE-4 1 HP Pentair pump, Frog 5430 (off-line) feeder, Frog Mineral & Bac Pac (99% Trichoro-s-Triazinetrione), Frog BAM Algae @ open, gas heater, auto cover, k2006

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    DaninFLA's Avatar
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    Re: right direction?

    wouldn't worry anything about TA. its fine. its high which could cause your pH to rise a bit quicker, but then you would add more MA to reduce the pH which will reduce your TA over time. just monitor your pH and make changes as needed and don't really worry about TA. your pH hasn't been really high in any of the readings you note, so you are good.

    I wouldn't run the slide to just raise pH...how fast is your pH rising in your pool under normal operation? I adjust my pH once a week about, maybe every 5 days with some MA. I lower mine to 7.2 when it hits 7.8. don't want to go below or above those. doesn't need to be steady at 7.5 constantly.

    if you pass to OCLT, no need for a SLAM, just keep up that FC at target and NEVER let it fall below the minimum for your CYA. I wouldn't worry about your CYA right now, its slightly high but that would only matter if you had to SLAM to the pool.

    welcome by the way!
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: right direction?

    You look good. Depending on how much sun your pool gets, 60 CYA might not be a bad thing.

    As Dan said, don't mess with the TA unless your pH is just terribly unstable. It will come down as you add acid to keep the pH in line.

    Ignore the adjustments in the Taylor instructions. All our advice is based on raw numbers

    Oh, if no pink shows up then just call your CC "0"
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: right direction?

    Okay so I just need to monitor FC and PH, like normal, and TA will come down when I adjust for PH upward drifts. Said another way, I'm done with active adjustments and should just enjoy the pool!

    I have to say, switching was really much easier than I had thought. Thanks folks.
    Best Regards, Tom

    18,000 IG, vinyl, TA-60 Triton II Sand filter w/DE, WFE-4 1 HP Pentair pump, Frog 5430 (off-line) feeder, Frog Mineral & Bac Pac (99% Trichoro-s-Triazinetrione), Frog BAM Algae @ open, gas heater, auto cover, k2006

  5. Back To Top    #5
    DaninFLA's Avatar
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    Re: right direction?

    Quote Originally Posted by JTDL View Post
    Okay so I just need to monitor FC and PH, like normal, and TA will come down when I adjust for PH upward drifts. Said another way, I'm done with active adjustments and should just enjoy the pool!

    I have to say, switching was really much easier than I had thought. Thanks folks.
    yep, Bingo! there is a reason its called Trouble Free pool...
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

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