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Thread: setting up the pool calculator

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    beverly ma

    setting up the pool calculator

    I've been slamming, vacuuming and got my test kit and I think I'm ready to try the pool calculator to see where I stand. I test my water and go to the calculator and it says"goals not set" What should my goals be? And how do I determine them? I know my water is WAAAAY out of wack but I gotta start somewhere. I only tested few just to get the hang of things.
    fc 5
    br 1
    tc 2
    cya blk dot never disappeared
    Gunite Diamond II design. east side 20' x west side 9', north side 32' x south 38' (rough measurements). 4' to 10' depth. DE filter made by Jacuzzi

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    San Rafael, CA USA

    Re: setting up the pool calculator

    Scroll down to the yellow "Suggested Goal Levels" section and set the "Use suggested goal levels from:" to "". That will set your goal suggested ranges in the calculator to be consistent with the charts and info in the Pool School. Just keep in mind that PoolMath is a dosing calculator. It is NOT an expert-system tool so it will not understand interactions between different chemicals in terms of optimizing what to do, especially in the area of pH and TA when both need adjusting. So just ask us questions and we can help you.

    It looks like you are using a simple test kit so the first thing to do is to get a proper one. You say you have your test kit, but I don't think it's one of our recommended ones because you report FC, BR (bromine), and TC (Total Chlorine) whereas our kits would give you Free Chlorine (FC) and Combined Chlorine (CC). I know we say this to everyone on this site and people may think it's overkill, but believe me when I tell you that it is not. The proper test kit is not only assured to be accurate and consistent but it has the right variety of tests to diagnose problems, not just for day-to-day maintenance. It is very, very hard for us to help people when we don't know what is going on chemically in their pool. So please get yourself either the TFTestkits TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006 which you can compare in the Pool School article Test Kits Compared were you will see that the TF-100 is the better value even though it is more expensive.

    So if we can believe your test results, then having the black dot never disappearing in the CYA test means that there is no CYA in the water. I find that hard to believe, however, since you would probably not have any chlorine in the water if the pool was exposed to sunlight since half the FC would get degraded by sunlight every hour. Also, the numbers you posted make no sense since normally on test kits that show both chlorine and bromine the bromine numbers are double the chlorine numbers, yet you show 5 and 1. Also, Total Chlorine cannot be lower the Free Chlorine. That kind of number sounds like maybe it is from a test strip and those are generally the worst test kits of all (but they don't use a black dot for the CYA test so I'm unsure of the test kit you are using).
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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