from where is my pool leaking???

acamato

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 12, 2008
153
Long Island, NY
When I closed my pool, in the fall, the water level was at the middle of the skimmers. Now it is approx 25" below the coping. It is below the skimmers and returns. I don't think that that much water would come thru a new cover....That leaves the the following possibilities: liner, light, main drain, or the liner around the shallow end steps... Any tips on pinpointing the location? I am thinking of putting on my dive gear and investigating...

I need to fill the pool with water because there is about 1' of cover left on the pavers in one section of the low end...
 
Any penetration of the liner is a good place to start....lights, steps, etc.

That would be mighty cold water and they are frequently very difficult to find. Some people have luck releasing red dye (from a syringe) near each suspected spot. I have found a leak like that but it is VERY,VERY tough to see. You have to release the dye normally within a 1/4 inch of the leak and the water around it must remain very still. I don't see how it would be possible if you were in the pool.
 
Acamato,

I once track down a few leaking inlet of a concrete pool.
Total 3 small leaks.
The leak is where plastic fitting of the water inlet is embedded in the concrete. This is a concrete pool.
I could not find a leak tracer kit locally and after some experimenting with various ink, finally the best vicosity is a rose syrup.
Take a look at the photos captured from a video.

The thickness of the rose syrup and its color allows leak to be seen as it sucks in the rose syrup, like a small worm... :mrgreen: . This leak is about 125 gallons a day. Total 3 leaks and this pool loose like 1,500 liters.

Use your dive gear, don't make much movement and use that syringe, 1-2 cm away from any leaking spot with volume like what I got, the tracer/syrup will be sucked in obviously.

Good luck....
 

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This is a temporary fix I did that was done underwater with a special epoxy that a pool store sold me.
In my climate of 29*C, I had to mix the 2 part epoxy for like 20 minutes before I can use it or else it will be too soft and get sucked in too by the leak. The repair doesn't last very long though, a few weeks it leaked again and second repair last a few months. Its quite a messy job underwater and you must use a dive tank, unless you can hold your breath 2+ minutes.

In one of the repair I use a black rubber tape to "feed" the leak before I epoxy it. I know its a mess but it saves water.. :mrgreen:

Like what Dave said, any fittings are suspects. Just "syringe" everything slowly and patiently.
The closer the tracer to the leak, the more time you need but it will be accurate. Some very small leak may not produce good suction unless the tracer liquid is very close to it.

Good luck
 

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I forgot to add. I did a bucket test first. If I recall correctly, this pool naturally loose like 750 to 1000 liters from sunlight. Its a big pool, the rest is water loss from those leaks.
 
If you pump the water off the cover regularly (as you should), the new cover may be the first thing to check. You'd have to pull the cover to get in anyway and checking the cover first is warmer and dryer :wink:

I assume you have a dry suit for diving - if not, you're a lot more rugged than I :mrgreen: ! If you go in, bring a screwdriver to try to tighten any suspect faceplates, pull the light and check the niche and give the entire surface a good visual onceover, looking for any tears, holes or dents. Use the dye on any suspect area. As Dave said, you need the water to be calm for the dye test to work so keep your movements small!

Please let us know how it works out or if you have any more questions.

(SPP chimed in while I was typing :goodjob: )
 
SPP,

The "Rose Syrup" you are using is a big improvement over what I have done. I simply used colored water and it dispersed (spead out) too quickly.

Can you give us some insight into what the "Rose Syrup" is made from?
 
Hello Chief,

Rose syrup is a local drink, I mean the syrup. Its usually 15% of it and add water, you get a drink. Its vicosity is less than honey. I tested printer inks but failed to get that "worm" like quality when I inject the syringe. Its basically sugar, with some colouring and added flavoring. I think cough syrup can get the same effect Dave, the thick ones.
 
So I could make my own mix of 15% sugar and then water (by volume), add some food coloring and go leak hunting?

I really like the way it holds together in the water and want to try it soon even though I currently have no leaks.
 

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I think those liquid sugar used in ice lemon tea with coloring should do well. Don't even mix with water. Remember those liquid sugar will settle on the bottom of the glass unless you stir them, that's the property you will need. Add some coloring, that should work yah ?
 
Dave, and others, I usually use R-0011L for dye testing :shock: (in addition to my new TF - 100 kit, I have A PS234 and 3 K-2005C kits and only test calcium a dozen times per season, so I've got plenty of old R-0011L to use for dye testing :wink: )

However, I'll bet the sugarwater tastes better :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for all the advise. I have to wait until it gets warmer. The pool is frozen over. I will continue to monitor the level. I will have to add some water if it continues to drop. I do not want any liner issues....


SSP - thanks for the photos.... As for the syrup, is it Rose's grenadine?

Another thought: I don't think it is the cover, because the level droped between pump offs....
 
The name Rose is because its red like a rose. Its a very local drink, so you will not have it there in the US. Just get liquid sugar and give it some food colouring, should do well.... :mrgreen:

Winter....my my I will die freezing.... :p

Good luck
 
I don't know much about liner pools, do you have a main drain? I know a few years ago we had a strange leak in our gunnite pool, and it turned out to be the drain "pop-off" valve - This is a second outlet to the main drain that goes into the ground, and has a one-way valve cap on it, facing INTO the pool.

Normally nothing flows through the valve, all it is for is as a safety feature - the idea is that if you try to pump the pool down below the local water table level, the valve will open and let the water table water flow in, rather than have the pool float up out of the ground... According to the pool tech that diagnosed it, the rubber o-ring seals in the valve will go bad over time (he said 15-20 years was typical) and cause a slow leak that can be VERY hard to find as the valve is hidden under the drain cover, and many people don't even know it's there.

The fix is fairly quick and easy, as it's a screw on item - unscrew the old valve and screw in the new one, but the challenge is getting down to it...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
I don't know much about liner pools, do you have a main drain? I know a few years ago we had a strange leak in our gunnite pool, and it turned out to be the drain "pop-off" valve - This is a second outlet to the main drain that goes into the ground, and has a one-way valve cap on it, facing INTO the pool.

Normally nothing flows through the valve, all it is for is as a safety feature - the idea is that if you try to pump the pool down below the local water table level, the valve will open and let the water table water flow in, rather than have the pool float up out of the ground... According to the pool tech that diagnosed it, the rubber o-ring seals in the valve will go bad over time (he said 15-20 years was typical) and cause a slow leak that can be VERY hard to find as the valve is hidden under the drain cover, and many people don't even know it's there.

The fix is fairly quick and easy, as it's a screw on item - unscrew the old valve and screw in the new one, but the challenge is getting down to it...

Gooserider

I am still waiting for the pool level to stop dropping.... I am currently about 24" below the coping. This is about 3" above the light housing. I lost about 3/4" last week. I will check it again on Saturday.

When I go diving in the pool to look for the leak, I will take a look to see if I have a hydrostatic relief valve in the main drain.
 

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